Replies

1. 
   MikeHennessy | Jan 28, 2009 03:59pm | #1

   If you're gonna have a toe kick on all visible sides, no reason not to build on a base. (In fact, as you note, I find this method makes leveling easier.) As for cabs on finish vs. subfloor, I try to judge which will last longer. If I'm putting down a nice tile or stone floor, I assume it'll outlast the cabs and I do the whole floor first. That way, it's not an issue if the cabs are changed out later. For laminate flooring, I'd lean towards doing the cabs right on the subfloor, assuming that the lam will wear out before the cabs.

   Mike Hennessy
   Pittsburgh, PA

2. 
   PeterJ | Jan 28, 2009 06:59pm | #2

    Most laminate (floating) floors require "no restraint" of movement...cabinets would definately restrain. if finished height is an issue build your bases higher to compensate.

   The base you describe often called a ladder base...I like 'em. It's the way I first learned to build and install cabinets. Toe space can be less on finished ends and may look nicer to your eye.

   Find high spot in floor, shim base level and a few tapcons in the corner blocks or stretchers you built in. Don't even have to do that if you attach ladder base to wall and dab constuction adhesive on shims. Lam floor shoe will cover gaps but I have scribed to finish floor.

    

    

   Everything will be okay in the end.  If it's not okay, it's not the end. 

1. 
   rick12 | Jan 28, 2009 08:46pm | #4

   "Toe space can be less on finished ends and may look nicer to your eye."Could you explain that to me. Thanks.

1. 
   PeterJ | Jan 28, 2009 09:02pm | #5

   Should have said;

    

   Toe space depth can be less on finished ends and may look nicer to your eye

   Front of cab toe space typically 2-3 1/2" front to back to accomodate toes. End of cabinet that depth usually not needed so depth can be reduced. Harder to describe than do, does that clarify?

     

   Everything will be okay in the end.  If it's not okay, it's not the end. 

1. 
   rick12 | Jan 29, 2009 01:03am | #7

   Thanks Peter. I think that I understand.
   You're talking about the finished end/side panel of the exposed end cabinet, which theoretically, could also be square cut with no toe kick notch cut out. Right?

1. 
   PeterJ | Jan 29, 2009 01:34am | #11

   Yessir! 

   Everything will be okay in the end.  If it's not okay, it's not the end. 

3. 
   klhoush | Jan 28, 2009 07:02pm | #3

   Don't install cabinets on top of a floating floor. Build your base and install it before the flooring.

   OB

4. 
   migraine | Jan 28, 2009 09:21pm | #6

   most of you answer is  "depends"

   As for toe kick, I make them separate as a complete piece if possible and then I level the toe and then set the cabs on top.  this is 95% of the time. 

   I also install before floor 90% of the time and some of that time, I remove the floor in the area and reinstall. as in carpet

   as for toe kick or none, I think that the function is to be taken in consideration, as well as design.

   In kitchen/baths work areas I would recommend a toe kick.  In an area like your.  it could go either way.  i would probably make part of that decision based on future used and the design.

   What would the potential taste be for future owners or even how you would use it yourself at a later time.  I personably feel that if it is in visual sight of where you entertain others in your home, I would build the cabinets to reflect that and used a lot of base and other trims to accentuate the the cabinets to make them more like a piece of furniture

   Lastly where is the time and money.  Simple cabs with toekicks are usually cheaper and faster to build.

   Does this help???

1. 
   Cincinnati | Jan 29, 2009 01:28am | #9

   Yes . Thanks you. I am working on the design. I want an "upscale" look, but not too ornate. I like "Clean" lines but am not especially favorable toward the contemporary European look. I do want these to look like furniture. I am considering Maple with Cherry or Walnut accents. However, this is a work in progress.One design I am considering is to eliminate the toe-kick all together and hang the base cabinets suspended above the floor maybe a foot. Still squeezing the creative juices.Not sure if I can spare the storage space. I am concerned about Leaving a space on the floor; I don't want to follow a design for a cluttered office considering my present tendency to slide things under my desk.Greg

   <!---->•••••••

   Exo 35:30-35<!---->

5. 
   peteshlagor | Jan 29, 2009 01:23am | #8

   Now that that is settled, let's visit the cabinets.  You want drawers, not doors and shelves.  Gives about 50% more usable storage space and is easier to get in and out of.  Use full extension glides.  Calculate the tallest item you're gonna put into such cabinets.  Then make the bottom drawer just a tad deeper.

    

1. 
   Cincinnati | Jan 29, 2009 01:29am | #10

   Agree. We are on the same page. In fact, One future project is to convert our kitchen cabinets to a drawer system.Greg

   <!---->•••••••

   Exo 35:30-35<!---->

2. 
   john7g | Jan 29, 2009 01:45am | #12

   and while you're talking about improved storage, avoid closet style pantries.  Go with the much more expensive but much more efficitent storage of pantry cabinets. 

1. 
   peteshlagor | Jan 29, 2009 01:57am | #13

   Refresh me of your concept...

    

1. 
   john7g | Jan 29, 2009 02:41am | #14

   I go into clients homes with the problem of the kitchen too small.  Nearly everyone of them has a closet for a pantry.  The door is a standard 2-0 or 2-6 and inside are the 12" deep wire shelves.  Cost at the time of the build between $100 and $150. 

   In that same location I can usually get 2 tall pantry cabinets with a vairety if pull out shelves/drawers in it's place.  The costs are much higher but the usefullness of the space has increased incredibly. It would be much cheaper to build this way to start. 

   attached a few pics for an example