Replies

1. 
   calvin | May 22, 2011 07:24am | #1

   MDR

   I'd go about the same method as if fastening to any floor-install blocks (usually a 2 by whatever flat).  The concrete poses a problem, but provides just as good an anchoring system as floor joists.  I'd use drop in anchors rather than something like tapcons or Powder Actuated Device-shot nails.  I usually span across the toe kick space front to back and allow enough slop (1/4") so I don't fight getting the cabs over and around the blocks.

   I'll then screw through the cabinet into those blocks. (not drywall screws). This b/4 a finished back or toe kick cover is applied.

2. 
   DanH | May 22, 2011 08:51am | #2

   Will the cabs be back-to back, or just a single unit deep?  Will the overhang be on all sides?

   With a single cab, especially with an overhang on only one side, you need to be a little careful about tipping.  (Never can tell when 4 teenagers are going to decide to sit on the island.)  Be sure to fasten both front and back.

   (Of course, absent the teenagers you hardly need any fastening -- the granite will keep things from moving.)

3. 
   gfretwell | May 22, 2011 03:26pm | #3

   The cabinet guys I have seen use 2x4s shot pined or TapCon'ed into the concrete, then anchor the cabinet to that.

4. 
   MJR | May 23, 2011 09:05am | #4

   Base cabs on concrete.

   Thanks for all the replys. There are teens in the house I will go with the 2x4' s on the flat attached with drop in anchors.. Thanks Mike.

1. 
   calvin | May 23, 2011 09:52pm | #5

   Mike

   Make sure what you are fastening "through" is up to the task as well.  The toe kicks are usually 3/4 particle board, the backs.............might be close to nothing.  Beef them up if you can from the inside.  This is semi critical on the side opposite the overhang.  Nobody is going to "lift" the cab up, but the prying action of a couple teens horsing around (or the adults for that matter) on the overhang side can make for quite a lever.

   Best of luck.