I want to install 3-piece baseboards with a 6 1/2″ board, 1 3/8″ base cap, and a base shoe. New houses like ours alll have rounded wall corners. I would like to install baseboards with rounded corners, but I can’t find any rounded base cap. The people at the local hardware store say it doesn’t exist. If that’s the case, I’d like to know if a router bit is available, and if not, what’s an estimate for having one made. Thanks.
Replies
Of course you realize you'll need to get rounded pieces for the 6-1/2" base, and the base shoe, as well.
The search function is not that great here, but this general topic has been discussed before, and you might have some luck finding those threads.
If I recall correctly, most carpenters execute trim on a bullnose corner with several small mitered pieces. It's not as graceful as a true curve, but it approximates it somewhat.
As for custom router bits, I can only suggest internet searches or calling some custom tooling companies in your area.
If you want to outsource this part of the project, try calling some local millwork shops and see if they can help you.
If your looking for custom bits, try here http://www.whitesiderouterbits.com/
Most of what I've seen is to cut the corner in many many small pieces and fill/sand to match the right profile.
You might try some of the flex molding companies and see if they make custom profiles or have some thing in their catalog
I could make curved pieces but it wouldnt be cheap.
There are places that will make you custom router bits and thats probably what you should look for. You dont need any bits for the base or the shoe, easy enough to make those two with out special cutters.
Doug
I could make curved pieces but it wouldnt be cheap
Assuming this is stain-grade work, how would you go about doing it?
I forgot to mention that the molding wll be paint-grade.
The paint grade choice will make things a little easier.
Out of curiosity, is a multi-pieced miter simply not the look you're going for?
Right. I'd like to match rounded corners on the walls. The builders fit a mitered corner piece at a 45 degree angle to the wall.
For paint grade, you can grind the profile into a drywall knife and use curved wire lathe and plaster. This technique is better for crown around bullnose corners than for base (less chance of damage later). It would also be labor intensive for base which is not seen as much as crown.Here are some crown pics I lifted from JLC:
Thank you all for your help. At least now I have a direction.
If you really want to go crazy, I do bullnose corners on both outside corners and inside corners...the inside corners match the radius of the outside corners (looks pretty neato).
If I had to do a lot of curved pieces I'd probably opt for the custom router bit. If I couldnt get a router bit big enough ( I've never had one made so not real sure if there are limits that preclude this) then if the profile isnt to difficult I'd grind my own or order one, whatever worked.
I havent done any radiused corners in a while so I'm guessing the radius at about 1/2"?
I think I would make up a bunch of squares maybe 6" X 6", not real sure on that, probably have to do a little experiment, then profile the whole square. I'd cut out the inside and flush trim with a router and a template to have my exact thickness. YOu could then cut off the corners as needed. I'd assume that I could make up a bunch of these in a day, probably enough for a whole house I'd think.
Your going to have some grain issues but I think you could orient the squares with the grain to get the best results.
Doug
Your going to have some grain issues but I think you could orient the squares with the grain to get the best results.
Thanks for the reply, Doug. Aside from some circular and elliptical "rosettes" (for lack of a better term), I've never had to deal with curved work and it's mainly the grain issues that I am curious about. With such a sharp radius, I was wondering if cracks and splits would be a major issue. What has your experience been with, say, a 1/2' x 3/4" base shoe executed over a bullnose corner?
I have absolutely zero experience with bending wood but was wondering what the practical limit to that approach would be (I'm assuming bending would require a much larger radius).
With such a sharp radius, I was wondering if cracks and splits would be a major issue.
Not if you did it the way that I described in the previous post.
About the only way that you could bend to that tight of a radius would be to cut strips about 1/32" thick! I don't think I'd go to the trouble, the way I mentioned in the other post would give you very good results and orienting the grain isn't all that tough. Your going to have grain mismatch anytime you deal with curves, just part of the game.
Some people will tell you to steam bend but I've never had any luck controlling that, to much spring back and when it has to fit a certain radius its imperative that it fit.
What has your experience been with, say, a 1/2' x 3/4" base shoe executed over a bullnose corner?
I cant say that I've ever bent any base to go around the bullnose corners on sheetrock. Always just did the 22 1/2 degree cuts. I have however bent wood to very tight radius' before, just not in that application.
My latest curved work, see attachment, alot of bent wood in that thing. I live for the curves but this week we're installing a simple Arts and Crafts entertainment center and its sorta fun not dealing with any profiles or curves! NO copes, no profiles, simple butt and miters.
Doug
That is a true work of art, how long does something like that take ?
The install was about 2 weeks, shop time probably another 2 weeks. Drawings probably a week? not sure on the last one.
Doug
My latest curved work, see attachment, alot of bent wood in that thing.
Wow, Doug, that looks like some pretty difficult work! So how did you bend the pieces for that work? And what about the crown? You can't bend that, can you?
Your right the crown isnt bent up its glued up segments. We have a multi moulder - just a W & H, except more better!
Doug
Doug,
Really nice work. Do you'll use a CNC?
Chuck Slive, work, build, ...better with wood
Do you'll use a CNC?
Yes, I worked for this company a few years ago, and we did all that curved flat work with a router and tramel points but when I came back they had bought a CNC and doing all the flat work is so nice now, no problem on the duplicate work, it always produces an exact radius, makes building some of this stuff real nice.
All the mouldings are still done the same way we did before. Bend in a jig and run through the shaper or multi-moulder, or even a router when necessary.
Doug
Painted or stained?
Mr. Magoo ;o) - http://www.flextrim.com/flextrim2.asp
Jeff
Thanks Jeff. Flextrim has the base cap plus the bullnose corners. Piece of cake.
Your welcome. It's a little funky to fasten but once painted you'd never know.
Jeff
Use an ogee bit the same height and profile as the straight lengths.Bandsaw or rout the outside radius.Rout the profile on a piece of 6/4 stock. Bandsaw the inside radius.The radius is the wall thickness,make the radius slightly larger on the stock so you do not force the molding onto the wall.If you force it ,it'l break as you have cross grain on 1/2 of it.
mike
could you glue 4 pieces together and turn them on a lathe and then split or cut them apart after turning?
drill a hole down the center first to give your inside curve, mount on a mandrel and turn?
this is what I would try if I needed this and had a lathe.
what's an estimate for having one made.
Why not just make all your own bullnose right from the start with a stock bit?
Instead of trying to fit an expensive bit to the bullnose, fit all of the bullnose to a cheaper bit.
you might want to consider the drywall corner thingys (sorry for the tech. jargon) that transition the last few inches of bullnose to a square corner.
really looks sharp if thats acceptable to you.
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"First thing I would do is shoot the carpenter"