Replies

1. 
   xxPaulCPxx | Oct 12, 2011 07:30pm | #1

   Try this:

   Snap a chalkline to level with the highest point of the hallway.  Now you will be able to see exactly how much variation you have to work with.

   Get some 1/8" white melame or similar and rip it to the width of your trim.

   Tape it to the wall - bottom edge to youe level line, Then scribe up from the floor from your lowest point.

   Use a rough grit handheld belt sander and grind off the melame to your scribbed line.

   Put it back on the wall and see what it looks like.

   Now, you've either trained yourself how to do the job, or you will reallize your planned approach will look completely ridiculous... but without the price of the nice trim.

2. 
   DanH | Oct 12, 2011 07:32pm | #2

   If I really wanted to do this (which I wouldn't) I'd tack the base in place, getting it as flat to the floor as possible and matching up the ends, then scribe.

3. 
   calvin | Oct 12, 2011 09:07pm | #3

   Deke

   Just did some scribing to tile with 3-3/4".  It was to be painted-this gives you a whole lot more leeway (well, at least a bit more than stain grade.  This is one of those questions that I think has no real answer.  If it works, it's right, if not ...........its not.

   If you scribe then cut to length, you're limited to the unscribed edge to register against your fence.  If your saw tips both ways etc, I don't suppose it would be too much a problem-if not, you'll find yourself cutting on the backside.

   So, if you fit the long run end to end first, then scribe-you'll at least have those fits done.

   You shouldn't have to chalk a line, but I'd run the entire length of base (in pcs if necessary-shimming it up where you want to raise it (or hold it off the floor).  Stick a nail in it if you need to steady it  and run it from corner to corner-fit the splice.  It's on the wall, now scribe.  Cut your scribe however you see fit-on a bevel so fine tuning is easier.

   I think I'd get all the copes and splices done (shimmed off the floor), then scribe the bottoms-you need to pick where to start so you at least end up with somewhere close to full width base.  However, if your saw lets you, you might leave some cuts undone till you get closer to right with the floor.

   Fit corners so there's no surprise there.  Take some liberties on "true"-fool the eye.  Use panel adhesive blobs in the corners, so you don't push your one side away with your cope (and then have nothing to hold it)

   There's also a reverse screw thing that Gary Katz and some of his readers at This Is Carpentry have talked about.  You can draw out a corner.  Move it in or out after it's fastened in the field-gives you an adjustment at the corners/copes.

   Best of luck.

1. 
   Deso | Oct 13, 2011 12:16pm | #4

   Splice?

   Thank you for a detailed picture of what I'm up against.  One of the things I was concerned about was my one sided miter saw and having only the top edge to index from for my splice and the cope end.  This is all started to make good sense to me.

   One other thing about the splice.  What do you think the best way is to get that accurate is?  I'm thinking I'm thinking if the two pieces are not perfectly in a straight line the scarf may not match.  So how might I transfer the first scarf to the second piece best?

1. 
   calvin | Oct 13, 2011 06:40pm | #5

   Deso

   If the two pcs are right on the money level at that joint (and either side a couple feet) then two 90 deg. splice cuts will fit like a glove.

   If you get all the rest ready-and cut them long at the splice, you can see in advance where your off, then trim shorter.

   or

   don't make one splice-make a couple-now you have a shorter managable pc. you can fit first one splice, being long-then go to the other end and fit that (being long again in the other direction).  Once you've got the second matching up-recut that end to the right length.

   Did you say-stain grade or paint?

   If stain grade-throw in matching up the color and the grain.

   I wish I had a picture of the 75' or more runs of base we did in TALL oak-it was not finished, but ready for stain.  We first matched boards in the order of most acceptable grain and color match-opting to cut at places that made the grain from one-run right into the next board. 

   Damn that turned out nice-you thought from almost any distance, that those pcs. of trim were one long one.

   It was a shame when they put tables in front of it.  A good long portion was visible to the patrons leaving their bar stools.

   The haunting thing with all the temp fitting etc is...................now you have to fasten it and things sometimes do change....................

   Never nail the last pc till you know what is going to happen.  And pck a place where that last pc. won't embarrass you later.

2. 
   calvin | Oct 13, 2011 06:48pm | #6

   one other thing.......

   If you elect to make more that one splice so you have a more manageable pc to work with for the last one........

   cut it so you have an overlap on both ends-then you lay that over the other pcs already fastened.    -----   you're working both ends of the long run to the middle..................

1. 
   Deso | Oct 14, 2011 09:21am | #8

   Pipes in the run

   I'd like to see those 75' runs.  Stained no less.

   I was hoping to do this long wall with just 2 pieces but being paint grade I guess it's not that important.  There is a radiator along this wall that hangs above the trim so the molding has to pass behind two pipes and it is fairly tight.  Going with 3 pieces just might make it easier than sliding a long one in and out behind those pipes.

   Started in another room yesterday and things are going OK so I'm getting excited about tackling the long wall.

   Deke

1. 
   calvin | Oct 14, 2011 05:53pm | #9

   Well, here's a link

   And I don't know if you'll be able to pick out the long base-it's to the left when looking at the bar, to the right when you see the front window.

   Part of the room was carpeted, some not.

   http://www.quittintime.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/5903/page/0/fpart/1/vc/1

4. 
   [email protected] | Oct 13, 2011 08:03pm | #7

   The "test pieces becomes a template.

   I'd use the 1/4 vinyl covered masonite that is made for cabinet backing to scribe to the floor. 

   Then I'd staple it to the back of the trim, and use it as a template to make the cuts on the trim, on the router table with a pattern bit.