Replies

1. 
   PhillGiles | Mar 21, 2007 07:04am | #1

   I was taught to use a finishing nailer, mostly to get a long enough nail for that angle-shot that draws the base to the wall; but, with MDF and the longer brads available, I can't really think of a reason why that wouldn't work.

    

   Phill Giles

   The Unionville Woodwright

1. 
   JMadson | Mar 21, 2007 08:30pm | #9

   Heard a trick a while ago that seems like a good idea. Haven't had a chance to use it yet.

   Buy a bag of wide popsicle sticks from a hobby shop. Use these as shims behind the trim at the bottom. It's common for the bottom edge of the drywall to be far enough off the ground that the bottom edge of the trim has nothing to hit. This keeps the trim vertical and is really helpful at the keeping the corners square.“The richest genius, like the most fertile soil, when uncultivated, shoots up into the rankest weeds..” – Hume

1. 
   brownbagg | Mar 22, 2007 05:16am | #12

   Use these as shims behind the trim at the bottom. It's common for the bottom edge of the drywall to be far enough off the ground that the bottom edge of the trim has nothing to hit.I used piffen screws in this area to adjuct the bottom in or out. not in the trim but under the trim . the big heads hold the trim plumb.

1. 
   JulianTracy | Mar 22, 2007 09:22am | #13

   One thing I like about my Dewalt finish gun is the quick-adjust depth adjust.I can use it to quick tack in some proud nails behind the trim to shim it out slightly - then readjust for the proper setting to nail the trim.Heckuva alot quicker than DW screws - although I will use those if I really need a heavy duty backer "shim".JTBTW - where the hell does the term piffen screw come from? I've been on Breaktime for 3-4 years now, and obviously have seen it used many times - just now wondered where it came from...

1. 
   brownbagg | Mar 22, 2007 02:11pm | #15

   where the hell does the term piffen screw come from? From the Piffen corporation, maker of fine quality Piffen Screws, can only be found in the Northeast. leaders in quality screws and inovinction of improved tradementship and Piffen techonolgy. In fact we have a Piffen here that is a direct line of the Eldery Piffen that go back years and years of quality workmanship.I saw in their catalog that orders over $500 before April 1st get a free set of steak knives. From Piffen of course.

2. 
   JTC1 | Mar 23, 2007 01:43am | #16

   Good info, I use them to adjust plumb on baseboards also.

   However, you are sending these folks on a wild goose chase - it is the  "Piffin" Corporation - with an "i", not an "e" - they'll never find it with a Google search.

   I got in on the free steak knife set.

   HUKT ON FONIX WERKT FER ME!

   Jim

   Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.

3. 
   fingersandtoes | Mar 23, 2007 11:58am | #18

   Since I heard about Piffin screws here on breaktime, I have used them to hang cabinets and on balloon framing. I notice I am much calmer now and my DW says I am more fun to live with.

   Edited 3/23/2007 4:59 am ET by fingersandtoes

2. 
   DougU | Mar 21, 2007 07:18am | #2

   How long nails can you shoot in your brad nailer?

   If you  can shoot 2" then I'd use it but if your max is 1 1/2" then I'd step up to the finish nailer.

   Doug

3. 
   Piffin | Mar 21, 2007 08:12am | #3

   finish gun

   nbase board gets a beating. brads not strong eough

    

    

   Welcome to the
   Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
    where ...
   Excellence is its own reward!

4. 
   john7g | Mar 21, 2007 02:58pm | #4

   Do the brads have a head?  Mine don't espeially compared to finish nails. Use the finish gun.

5. 
   Aaron | Mar 21, 2007 04:12pm | #5

   I preprime and paint one coat before installing trim.  If the MDF is the preprimed stuff already, I still do one coat of finish before installing.  After installing, caulk the gaps, fill the nail holes, sand smooth, and do a second coat.  I have had good luck using the small mini-rollers and SW ProClassic for the finish.  I like to do the walls after the trim b/c I have an easier time bringing the wall paint down to the trim versus keeping the trim paint off the wall--but if the walls are straight and there were not a lot of gaps to caulk, I think the difference is less.

   I also use a finish nailer.

6. 
   hammer1 | Mar 21, 2007 04:19pm | #6

   Outside of the nails, I walk into a room and start the base on my left. I work around the room clockwise. This way, I'm always making the same cope. If you leave your pieces about 1/2" - 3/4" long, you can often bend them in place to check your fit. If need be, you have a little extra to adjust the cut.

   I don't nail the straight corner where a cope will come up against. Nailing will sometimes twist or drive in the bottom of the base, making fitting the cope difficult. You have to be careful walking and moving around with a cope cut, especially with MDF. Just touching the sharp corner will break it off. You also have to hold long pieces of MDF on edge, if it flops flat ways, it will often break.

   Much of the time, I used some small 3/8" plywood blocks to keep the base up off the floor. This makes tucking in carpet easier and less of the base will be covered. Obviously, you can't do this with vinyl or other thin flooring materials.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

1. 
   dovetail97128 | Mar 21, 2007 07:25pm | #8

   Hammer ,
   Are you left handed? Painted trim I use the same technique but start on my right.

   Stained trim I do the wall opposite the entry first , then each abutting wall.
   Any possible tiny, miniscule, mismatch or cut that needs putty (never happens in reality right? ) will then not be as easily veiwed from the entry area.
   You are looking past the joint not into the joint.

1. 
   hammer1 | Mar 22, 2007 03:56am | #10

   I'm a righty, Dovetail. I like to have the point of the cope towards me. I use a coping saw. I can hold my thumb on the fine point and run the saw gently to avoid breaking it off. I go teeth down and cut on the down stroke.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

1. 
   dovetail97128 | Mar 22, 2007 04:53am | #11

   Same technique except I hold the point away from me, use my index finger for the support.

7. 
   tuolumne | Mar 21, 2007 05:12pm | #7

   I just did 400 feet to finish off our current home.  I used #8 finish nails near the top of the trim every 4th stud and near the ends.  This is very solid and fits tight to the sheerock everywhere.  Are you folks with nailers just nailing to the sheetrock?  If your going for the bottom plate it tends to rotate the trim in at the bottom.

8. 
   lange22250 | Mar 22, 2007 09:56am | #14

   I use a 15g finish nailer and hit the ends with 2 nails and every stud. On the outside corners I leave the base just off the wall, glue the corners and then nail them with an 18g. This allow you to create clean corners even with the worst framing/drywall jobs. On the inside corners I miter them and nail the bottom of the board first, then shim the tops with my flat bar to draw the miter tight. It's fast and simple, plus it's all getting calked anyways.

9. 
   cannon | Mar 23, 2007 05:26am | #17

   I had zero experience do and interior trim before I trimmed out my entire 2200 sq. ft. house.  I did the baseboards, hung the doors, casing, window seals, and staircase.  It all turned out great due to the fact that I ordered the Gary M. Katz Dvd series.  It wasn't cheap, I forget exactly how much it cost but it definiatly less expensive then screwing up all your interior trim.  I'm not trying to give a sales pitch or anything but just wanted to pass on my experience after watching the dvd's and playing around with my mitre saw and some trim I felt like a seasoned carpenter.  It doesn't just show you how to cope a joint or give you a nailing pattern it explains step by step the way a pro does the job.

   Good Luck