Replies

1. 
   John_Geurkink | Jun 04, 2000 03:20am | #7

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   Chris:

   I believe there are code dimensions which pertain to a window well for an egress window. I think its 3 1/2 feet wide, by 4 feet deep (all dimensions from inside to inside). We use pressure treated 6x6 and anchor vertical ledgers to work against weight of backfill.

   Good luck!

2. 
   Guest_ | Jun 05, 2000 01:33am | #8

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   I have made an addition to my home and a bathroom will share 8' into the new very square and plumb addition with 9' of the crookedist (is that a word?) 37 year old original house. I used 50 lbs. of LEVEL QUICK from Home Depot to attempt to level out the difference in the old floor from the new. 1" in 6' at the worst spot. I am satisfied with the final subfloor but how should I connect the 1/4" Luan with the part of the floor that is 1" thick Portland Cement? Glue? What kind? Thanks for any help
   Bill Foley Lusby MD.

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 05, 2000 03:29am | #9

   *Bill,you posted your message in a conversation about egress windows. Go to the "Construction Techniques" folder and post it there as a new discussion (click "add discussion") Hyjacking a thread is not going to get you many answers.

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 05, 2000 05:59am | #10

   *Chris, If time and money are constraints check into a galvanized steel window well. They are specifically designed for this application. They are made from heavy guage galvanized corrugated steel with l-shaped flanges to anchor to the foundation wall. They come in a wide variety of sizes, are quite stong against backfill, and will last a long time. For deep wells, I lag a ladder right to the side to allow egress. You can also add shelfs and such for planters the same way. They are not that expensive either. The last one I bought was 4feet out x 5feet deep x 5feet wide and cost about $250.What ever you chose to use though allow good drainage. I figure on at least one foot of crushed rock at the bottom of the well. I would use more with sloping drain tile if my soil conditions did not allow drainage. You do not want your well filling with water. Hope this is helpful.walk good

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 05, 2000 01:24pm | #11

   *Thanks Ryan...I'm new to this.

3. 
   Chris_River | Jun 05, 2000 06:37pm | #12

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   David, (and others!) thanks for the responses. The well will start about 6' below grade. We are having stone from the bottom of the 'well' to the footer, which has drainage around it - we wanted to assure good drainage too. We're planning to build it out of CMUs at this point, since it seems they will provide the 'step' for getting out if we set them half a block back with each course. It will be about 2 1/2' deep and 4' wide at the windowsill, opening up to over 5' at the top. It should be climable in case of an emergency. It's not the only way out of the basement, by the way, just a light and safety precaution. We wanted to avoid the metal ones because we don't want to be concerned about them bending, breaking, rusting, etc in the future.

4. 
   Guest_ | Jun 06, 2000 07:46am | #13

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   Chris,

   I will be building a similar well shortly. I decided to use split-face CMU's stepped back as you describe. Have you given any thought to a cover for the opening to prevent falls?

   Jerry

5. 
   dave_j_keller | Jun 07, 2000 05:26am | #14

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   Chris,

   What you described sounds like a good plan. Around here a lot of builders put in a galvanized metal unit , specially made for this function. Your cement block method would look a lot nicer.

   I might suggest lining the back (fill) side of the blocks with some kind of fabric to keep any dirt and or weeds from washing or growing into the well area.

   Also if this is your personal home, I might suggest good locks or even an alarm sensor on that window. In this area, since the new code went into effect, this is becoming the most used entry point in breaking into homes.

1. 
   Chris_River | Jun 08, 2000 02:34pm | #15

   *Regarding the top, yes, that's something we have been discussing. Obviously, during the winter we'd have a 'cap' on it that we will build. We were planning, at least at this point, on adding some either brick or nicer looking block to the top edge to lift it above ground level, and there will be a garden surrounding it to discourage anyone from walking there in the first place. I want to keep animals from falling in too. Really good point about the security issue. Thanks for mentioning it. Dogs are a help, but I assume we will alarm it, along with the other entry points (there's another full sized window plus a door in the basement). Maybe some kind of 'easily removed from the inside' grill would be a good idea.

6. 
   Guest_ | Jun 25, 2000 09:38pm | #16

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   Chris, if a few extra dollars aren't critical,look up Scapewell by Bilco, they look much sharper than many other options for W/wells. Suspect the 44 inches off the foor is to enable "shorties" to get out more easily since kids are typically the users of basement bedrooms.In some situations we have to install a bigger window than otherwise needed (we do retro-fits) or the owner can place a pedestal on the floor. Don't like dropping the window down and having a header because it tends to block out sunlight, unless of course the span requires one to be inserted on top of the foundation. BUT BE CAREFULL what you do about window well covers, especially in the winter. Our local codes people don't allow many versions because of the danger of being covered with snow and ice and blocking an emergency excape/resuce.

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 26, 2000 04:04pm | #18

   *I built A home last winter and we used the scapewell by bilco. It was very easy to attach to the basement wall. It has built in steps and a clear plastic top if you want.

7. 
   Guest_ | Jun 26, 2000 04:04pm | #17

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   My foundation contractor has noted that the basement egress window opening in our new house will be 48"x48". Looking in my reference books I do not see any framing details for basement egress windows. What is the usual method of framing the opening and installing the window, and how do I work back to the rough opening size for the window?

   Thanks,

   Indian Creek Woodworks.

1. 
   Guest_ | May 03, 2000 02:26am | #1

   *We usually use a 2x treated nailed into the side of the masonry opening. This gives you something to nail your window into. You can set your 2x back from the outside face of the block or nail it flush depending on the look you prefer.Your 2x width depends on the size of the block and placement within the block opening.The inside can be finished with drywall up to the window jamb, wood jamb extensions and casing.If you place the window to the inside of the block, you will have to provide a sloping sill. This is probably best done with masonry. Be sure to allow extra height in your rough opening if this is the option you choose.

1. 
   Guest_ | May 03, 2000 05:43am | #2

   *indian creek, I think steve has a good approach, but i would double the bucks so i would have 3inchs of wood all around. this gives more clearance around your window both inside and out. also i would frame the outside bucks first and set them in my forms or blocks with aanchor bolts rather than nailing. if the foundation is existing, then drill and anchor with your choice. epoxy works well to lock in your bolts. then the inside bucks can be fitted snug and nailed together. treated or redwood material a must. also do not forget your support for your joist ends if this is a bearing wall. i will double my rim back to the next joists over solid foundation. then use hangers for the joists over the window. i like keeping the bucks recessed inside the foundation about an inch. with that i can either wrapp the window with mortar or wood casing and still have it flush with the exterior of the foundation. if i am not mistaken, egress is no more than 42inchs off the finished floor, so depending on your foundation elevation, you may need to build up above your window more than 3inchs. walk good david

1. 
   Guest_ | May 03, 2000 04:26pm | #3

   *David. Maximum height of window sill above floor level is 44 inches.

1. 
   Guest_ | May 05, 2000 01:43am | #4

   *Thanks Gene. That is one number that constantly eludes my memory. I just can't see any rational to it. Any clues? Walk good davi

2. 
   Guest_ | May 05, 2000 07:20pm | #5

   *David. The 44 inch maximum height applies only to windos used as egress-- or emergency escape windows.Note that the code does not say a window is necessary as a means of egress. Neither the BOCA Commentary or BOCA personnel know or explain why the 44 inch maximum height. The 1998 archieves, I believe, havbe several posts on the issue of basement windows. GeneL.

3. 
   Chris_River | Jun 01, 2000 02:25pm | #6

   *Regarding building egress window wells: We have the window in the foundation wall, but it needs to have the well built. Finished grade will be about even with the top of the window. There aren't any code issues we need to worry about, but we're wondering what the best way is to 'build' the actual well. Would using cement block and stepping it back away from the wall work sufficiently well? The sides could go pretty much up straight, since the window is about 3' wide. Would supporting the block with gravel fill under it be sufficient? I don't see why it would need to be firmly attached to the wall, since the soil and stone will hold it against the wall, right? There will be stone in the bottom of it which is on top of the footer drain (form-a-drain) so drainage shouldn't be an issue. The other option would seem to be actually framing the thing out of pressure treated wood, which I hate to do and which is not as permanent as cement block. I appreciate any suggestions or comments anyone has on this!