I need to replace an exterior basement entry door that has rotted out from a drainage problem. The door is at the bottom of the stairwell leading down to the basement and there has been a water problem with the well at the bottom backing up and getting in the basement, which has ruined the door. I was thinking of raising up the door somehow, but am not quite sure what is the best approach. Would it make sense to build up a concrete base to get the door up higher? I’m open to ideas if anybody would like to chime in. Thanks.
Mick
Replies
A concrete curb for the door to sit on, with a good sealant, sounds like a good fix, but you better figure out a way to get rid of the drainage problem . No matter how big the curb or powerful the sealant, wah-wah will find a way in, or ruin the new door.
Bing
Bing,
Water problem under control, doubtful with the new drainage that it will back up to the height it used to.
Any suggestions on how to make the curb? such as height? (door is only a couple inches off concrete the way it sits now), type of mix to use? how to form curb?
I would think a standard redi-mix would be ok,don't know what the psi is for a bag of quick-crete (2500? 3000?)but... I would think a 3 0r 4 " curb should be enough, although it's a guessing game as to what the conditions are as to the grade, position above grade at the door, etc. but......I would probly form it the thickness of the foundation, so there's a lip on the inside,sticking up 3/4" or so, so that the actual threshold sits in a dropped lip, ifn ya can see through my muddy description! Lay down some good sealant; Good advice as to pvc 908 staff (brick mould) should keeep the rot to a min in a guaranteed damp area. Don't know if the brick mould abuts siding or crete, but obviously, follow the usual standard flashing/vycor/ paper routineto keep out damp/water.
Good luck. (I give clearer advice when it's wood lol)
Bing
Mick, will you be buying just a door to install in your old jamb or are you planning on using a new entry unit?
If new jamb/door-be sure to look at models with "FrameSaver". They utilize a composite decking like material for the bottom foot or so of the jamb sides and the under threshold backing.
FrameSaver
A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
Calvin, thanks for the link. I've been needing that info.wdb
Sure thing.
The jamb bottoms and underthresh have been a constant source of failure in all the units in wet or damp situations. Pity it took them so long to come up with an answer. That joint attracts gunk that holds water a long time. Relying on caulk as the seal was asking alot. And rot from the backside/bottom in made it impossible to detect until too late.
For basement/masonry contact it almost makes sense to find out if complete jamb is made outta the stuff.A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
Valuable information guys, much appreciated.
Any advice for the following?
Any suggestions on how to make the curb? such as height? (door is only a couple inches off concrete the way it sits now), type of mix to use? how to form curb?
Mick,
First I would decide if I was going to buy a door or replace the whole shebang.
To help decide I guess I would look closely at the existing jamb-if the door went to ####, perhaps the jamb is soon to follow.
Then I would measure the room I had at both the sides and the head. This might eliminate the new unit due to amount of room and the work to alter it.
Somewhere in there is the answer of how high to work in the curb.
Is there a cover over this door? Besides the stopped up drain wetting the door-so does splashback. No air movement down there makes for slow dry.
Curb-whatever cmu (patio block, concrete block, salvaged limestone sill from behind the garage-or a new one-$
The thickness of the above is pretty much dictated by whether you can/want a new door unit-in fibreglass which as mentioned-will better weather that type of environment, or just replacement of the existing wood door.
No matter how high you raise the bottom of the threshold-there's potential for problems. Good sealing and ''flashing'' will go a long way to keeping whatever you stick there.
I think I would go with setting some masonry v. pouring a curb. If you pour maybe use some of the quick setting anchoring cements. Sets quick so be ready. Using sand mix (no stone) is more of a morter type fix. It might hold up a couple inches thick. Anything with stone would need to be more like 3'' thick to bond together. Pin it to the floor or cut block-What do you have in that opening now?
Hey, best of luck. Hope the above made sense-been watching basketball.........A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
Bing,
"follow the usual standard flashing/vycor/ paper routineto keep out damp/water"
Could you give me a little advice as to the proper way to flash a door installation like this?
Calvin,
Yes, the whole unit is being replaced.
"Then I would measure the room I had at both the sides and the head. This might eliminate the new unit due to amount of room and the work to alter it"
I figured I would build a curb and then take the rough opening measurements after that, then custom order a door to fit the opening. Does this seem logical? Or will I not be able to get a fiberglass prehung made to size?
Really appreciate your time.
Mick
Mick. Depending on the room you have available-Usually at least 82'' in the rough height (either Masonite or Thermatru comes a half inch shorter. Ask for unit size with no-brickmold.
After that you can custom order in height (have never asked about width), but I've only wanted to knock off an inch-I know not what the parameters are.
You can also cut down the door-"rout" out the innerds at the bottom or top, and then slip in wood or a composite fill. Then of course you have to cut down the jamb which is easier at the head-but can be done at the bottom. You disassemble either the head or threashold.
Cutting down the unit/door is not easy but can be done. You've got the hinge locations to consider, any profile on the door, and lockset locations. Also, if at the bottom of the door you need to groove the bottom of the door and reinsert the splined weatherstrip.
By all means, for some all skill levels it's easier to order it proper size if you can.
Send Bing a msg so he sees it-he'll be back to run you through making it water repellant.
Best of luck.A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
Thanks Calvin
103246.11 in reply to 103246.10
Bing,
"follow the usual standard flashing/vycor/ paper routineto keep out damp/water"
Could you give me a little advice as to the proper way to flash a door installation like this?
I wouldn't order a custom door....I'd see what you can safely take out of the top header ( If non-bearing, such as a peak end wall, you can leave next to nothing, If bearing, can you safely reduce header size?) and base the finished height of the curb measuring down from there. I don't think you've said what the wall construction is in the area your working in. I know it's a basement wall; safe to assume it's concrete all the way up? Or is it a basement/ walk out arrangement with wood framed knee wall? Either way, especially with the water issues you seem to have had, I'd have made or buy a pan flahing that goes on top of the curb first b4 the door. Load the curb up with a good conc compatible sealant and bed the flashing in it. The next step would sort of depend on the const. of the wall, but either way I'd wrap the sides with vycor, a good six inches on the face if wood; just the sheathing up to the concrete if not. Set your door, use an aluminum drip cap on top of the brick mold @ top. I agree with the previous post as to ordering w/out 908 if it can only be had with wood. Most 908 brickmold is fj these days; ng for damp (or really any) applications. Some manufacturers are selling with the vinyl b mold....worth looking into. After flashing top, vycor over flashing, lapping onto side vycor. If wood wall, typar or equivalent tucking under existing paper at top, run close to door all around, lapping so water sheds onto paper below. If all conc wall, trim vycor flush to brickmold, and run a neat bead of phenoseal around whole deal, ( stuff is pretty bulletproof)
If any of this seems muddy, post back. I just finished a 38 hr. straight stint at work, so I may not be as clear as I otherwise might be :)
Bing
Great info Bing, Thank you
To add to what Calvin said get a door with a fiberglass slab. More $, but it is what is needed in your situation. Steel doors rust out in situations like that. Order a door with PVC brick mold too. The cost of such a prehung door might be $280. Also pre-paint the door frame before installing it. It's not as important with framesaver and the PVC brick mold, but still getting a good coat of paint on all surfaces before they are hidden really helps. Most come primed, but that coating is rather minimal. Before the framesaver thing came along I always painted the hidden areas before installing an exterior door, especially the bottom of the threshold, jambs and brick mold.
Other than that, you need to fix the water problem.