I am in the process of remodelling my first basement. We are using steel studs on the perimeter walls and are trying to follow the techniques described by Rick Arnold and Mike Guertin (“Finishing Basements” No. 132 July 2000) as well as Tom O’Brien (“Remodeling With Metal Studs” No. 97 September 1995), but I have a few questions. This is my first time using steel studs as well so I’d appreciate any ideas.
1. Page 101 in No. 132 shows a cross-section of the perimeter wall framing. My first question is what is the best way to attach the steel furring channel to the concrete block wall? The other question is once I get the metal track installed for the top and bottom plates and the furring channel is in place, how do I screw the “concrete side” of the studs into the channel and the track? It seems to me the only way would be to come in on an angle through the open part of the stud and run the screws so that they protrude out of the wall toward the concrete block.
2. We are going to but a dropped ceiling in and I understand from our code official that we will need fire blocking in the walls, even with the bottom of the ceiling. What is the best way to handle fire blocking with steel studs? Also, must the fire blocking extend back to the concrete wall? (Our steel framed wall will be offset from the block wall by the thickness of the furring channel.
Thanks for any help!
Replies
clamp the backside with visegrips, then twist that sucker, that'll give you room to drive a screw.
Using steel studs eliminates a combustible,other than paper facing on sheetrock, or insulation, I guess you do need fire blocking.
no turn left unstoned
Ben,
There are several ways to attach the "furring" [hat channel] to the concrete block: Tapcons, Powder Activated fasteners, drop in anchors, etc.
To get the screws into the back [concrete] side of the stud it will help if you pre-punch the stud or drill it so the point of the screw won't skid all over the place. Also Milwaukee sells a nifty right angle drive [actially about 70°] that will get in there.
As for the firestopping, does this refer to the true ceiling or the suspended ceiling? I can see fire-stopping the true ceiling but usually you run the drywall {DW} all the way up which should keep the flames and fumes out.
-Peter
Brinkmann for President in '03. (I can't wait.)
Not to rehash pm22's answer, but if you are using hat track you are not using stud track with it. Hat track or hat bar or furring channel is the 7/8" stuff that viewed from the end looks like a hat a kid would draw.
shoot it.
Why do you need to screw the back side of the stud to the track?
DC
re the firestopping, I vote for running the rock up to the deck above. Think he's trying to isolate the ceiling space from the wall space.
Edited 9/13/2002 9:51:58 PM ET by DCASSII
The "firring channel" you speak of can be shot to the concrete wall. The reason for this channel is to act as a strongback (least thats what we call em round here) helping to keep unfinished side of framing rigid, thus eliminating the need to screw the rear sides of studs to trac.
As far as fire blocking goes, prior to standing perimeter walls, install a rip of drywall to existing ceiling joists around entire room from foundation wall far enough in to accomodate where top plate of metal wall will mount.( Is that clear?) Then bring your sheetrock up tight to ceiling joists when rocking walls. This meets code here.
Best of luck, let us know how you make out.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
"DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE"
Powder activated guns brand names are Hilti;The paslode gun is awesome for securing the hat track to the wall-not to noiusy and hardly any kickbark;they are exspensive though-try to rent one.Nobody screws both sides of the stud to the top or bottom track-there is no need;if you tried to do it on any job in N.Y. area you would be deemed incompetent and thrown off the job.For the fire code run the rock all the way up.
Mickus,
Sometimes it's advantageous to fasten the stud on all four available corners. For instance, if you have to mount an electrical box to the stud or drill a hole thru it - say for a pipe - you don't want that stud to be flopping madly around.
-Peter
Brinkmann for President in 11.'03. [I can't wait any harder.]
I can understand why you would want to screw all 4 corners.I'm in an area where they ride you about speed -the consideration of other trades is minimal.I've had it beaten into my head that you only screw the one side of the stud:I didn't mean to infer that someone is incompetent if they screw all 4 corners-thats just the enviroment I learned it in.
ive done three basements this past year in CT, the inspector was looking for fire blocking on the ceiling before the wall was installed so that the fire could not travel behind the wall cavity up into the ceiling joist cavity, the sheetrock had to extend to the sill plate beyond the front of the wall.
as for screwing the back of the studs it is not needed, I did comm. work for 4 years steel studs , sheetrock , tape , etc in all applications, you only neeed to screw the studs on all sides if you can acess them .
what are you using the hat channel for? in the middleof the wall , is the wall over 8 ft. otherwise just attach the top and bottom tracks. good luck
In reference to screwing back of studs,in Calif. if you don't you would likely be laid off.Time is precious but quality can't be compromised.The drywall industry is cutthroat at best,everyone feels the pressure,from owners to scrappers,but it is up to the workers to maintain quality.Sign me-a union drywall foreman.Mike
Trust in God,but row away from the rocks.
The hat channel acts as a strong back to keep the wall rigid as only one side is being finished.J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
"DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE"
As a Drywall Sup`t in the Dallas Area.....I find that you do not always have to shoot the 7/8 Drywall Furring Channels to the block..... try this...we use this method in commercial const often.... Get a 3/4 drill point lath screw.... screw the channel to the motar joints just enough to let the screw penetrate the motar about 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch.... now with you hammer hit the screw firmly to drive it in the rest of the way..
this makes a good attachment... also hard nails with a magnetic punch will work.... more effort needed though......Mark
As for the fire block... there is a product called BEAR HAIR...or FIRE SAFEING.. that is readily available at most commercial Drywall supply houses... this prodict is a thick fire rated insulation that is used to fill any voids in the wall area,,, easy as batt insulation.. it usually has a 1-2 hr rating depending on how thich the product you choose,,,,,Mark