This is what happens when the same guy that hangs the cab’s does the framing/blocking too …
Buck Construction Pittsburgh,PA
Artistry in Carpentry
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Prescriptive codes don't address the connection at less common angles, so base the connection off more typical ones using bolts, structural screws, blocking, and steel tension ties.
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Terrible I tell ya. I think you get to that point with some personalities. You get tired enough of the just barely enough method of some of the people you hire and just start doing it all yourself. Then it meets your standard. They can criticise. You overbuilt this, you didn't need to go to that much effort there, whatever.
I'll compliment you though. You got your s**t in a straight line there. That's what happens when you turn a trim guy loose to frame. Might be a little slower, but you don't end up scribing cabinets.
"The child is grown / The dream is gone / And I have become / Comfortably numb " lyrics by Roger Waters
LOL - I think, being a Steelers fan and all, that you're subconsciously trying to compensate for a frustrating blocking deficiency there Jeff.
Doesn't look like you're gonna find any soft spots with those Piffin screws when you hang those babies.
Kevin Halliburton
"I believe that architecture is a pragmatic art. To become art it must be built on a foundation of necessity." - I.M. Pei -
blocking deficiency
....... hummm....
You may very well be onto somthing there......
Jeff
Buck Construction Pittsburgh,PA
Artistry in Carpentry
Jeff,
Looks great. I have just two questions. I don't use steel studs often but was thinking about using them for finishing a basement. How do you have to prep an area for cabinets so the studs will hold them? Just block like in the picture and screw the cabinets to the wood. I know the steel studs won't hold alone. Secondly, what do you use to adhere the foam insulation to the concrete wall? I was looking into the enerfoam product. Does Great Stuff make anythink for that? Thanks.
Richie
Steel studs will hold alone if a fine thread screw is used.
Solid wood blocking makes things go quicker and easier with a bigger cabinet install ... that whole area blocked is going to be filled with cabs .... a full kitchen is going in .... oven ...cooktop ... hood ... ice maker ... wine cooler ... everything.
another way of adding blocking is to plan to leave off the drywall and use a similar thickness ply glued and screwed across the face of the studs.
Or ... in an area where you know something's going ... but not exactly sure what ...
Skin the whole wall with ply first ... then drywall over the ply.
The insulation panels are friction fit. No adhesive. The basement was around 8' 3" ... so the 8' pieces were stood ... held in place with the arm of a clamp that was clamped to a joist .... the the 3" piece was fit in tight .... too tight they'd boy out ... too loose they'd flop ... just right ... they stood there and straighened up even more when the seams were taped.
JeffBuck Construction Pittsburgh,PA
Artistry in Carpentry
as a cabinet guy, i'd love all that blocking!!!!!! did a new house last year, the guy used 3/4 ply between all of the steel studs in his kitchen(behind the drywall at 30, 50 and 80 heights about 12 inches wide
no searching for studs on that job!!!
caulking is not a piece of trim
my plan was the ply blocking ...
but I had a load of 2x6 on site the day it made sense to have the helper do the blocking .... so instead of spending time setting up and ripping all that ply ....
2x6 it was.
my buddy got all that plus another 4x12' "L" section on another wall done in 4 hrs working by himself. Money well spent.
JeffBuck Construction Pittsburgh,PA
Artistry in Carpentry
Jeff:
Very nice job on the framing. Looks very neat.
I gotta admit, these steel studs are growing on me. Sure, you have to put in some extra blocking for cabinets but I do that for wood framing as well. Not to mention not having to worry about crappy lumber, lugging a pile of 2x4s down stairs, or even sweeping up sawdust.
What gauge C-studs are those? I have only used the 25 gauge (18 mil) studs, but have heard that heavier gauge stiffen the wall even more. Not sure if that is really neceaasry, but is just a thought. In a kitchen, it seems like the heavier gauge studs would be desirable.
Eric
they're the thin stuff ... 25 gauge, like ya said, I think.
I really loved them on delivery day .... it's a walk in basement ...
I had a bit over 40 bundles of 10 ... making for over 400 studs ....
Plus I forget how many bundles of track ....
My yard is great about sending 2 guys in the truck and they always help unload ... actually I think I'm one of the few guys that help them ....
So when the flatbed showed up with one guy ... instead of the box truck with 2 kids ... I was slight screwed ... as I didn't plan on having extra help around that day.
He dumped the bunk .....
I got them all inside myself ....
But woulda been dead if it was lumber instead of steel!
If it was lumber ... it woulda sat there curbside till I called for a coupla renta-guys for the next day.
The PT plates and the 2x6's were enough wood to hump that day.
I used to worry about the wall stregth till I gave a pre and post drywall shake test a coupla years back .... once the drywall is up it's as tight as anything else.
I'd not use the heavier stuff unless it was load bearing.
JeffBuck Construction Pittsburgh,PA
Artistry in Carpentry
Jeff,
Thanks a lot for the reply. Just for clarity (like I said, I really don't use steel) will any guage steel stud hold cabinets without blocking (just using fine thread screws) or just the heavier gauge? It just seems that once a lot of weight was put on them, the screws would pull out of the thin steel. Thanks again. Oh, post more shots of the basement as you progress.
Richie
I dunno.
I've never hung uppers w/o blocking.
In retrofits ... just cut out 2 strips of drywall ... where the upper and lower nailers on the upper cabs are ... and fit in a band of 1/2 ply ... glued and screwed ...
Put the ply where it'll never show .... and mount the cabs.
I'd guess if the fine thread screws aren't over torqued .. they'd work just fine ...
But I wouldn;t wanna be the one to find out. I have found that steel studs can have "soft spots" ... hanging drywall ... most grab fine and such the DW in .... then every now and again .. a coupla screws will with spin .... like it hit a soft spot?
Hate to have that happen on that vesy last cab screw where the cab's a bit outta whack and fighting ya ... just when you need that screw to grab and straighten everything out ....
JeffBuck Construction Pittsburgh,PA
Artistry in Carpentry
Jeff,
Thanks again. I think I'll stick with the wood blocking.
Richie
Why not frame the whole thing in wood.whats the big deal.
Seems like an awful hassle to do it the way he did .
Be well
andy
My life is my practice!
http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Edited 12/6/2003 11:40:19 AM ET by Andy Clifford(Andybuildz)
awful hassle
Actually ... easier ... and better.
Add a little blocking for a much better product?
What's the hassle?
Don't fear the metal ........
JeffBuck Construction Pittsburgh,PA
Artistry in Carpentry
I like the metal in basement but in some rooms such as baths and kitchen I usually use 2x6 wood studs.
Shove em through a basement window if there is one.
I could see doing the soffets in metal etc etc but the walls may have been easier (for that guy) in wood.
I'm not sure I like heavily loaded hanging cabs hanging from metal....but then again I usually overdo things.
Be a stud ; )~
andyMy life is my practice!
http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM