I am planning to install an exhaust fan in a bathroom. Can I tie in to the exsisting ductwork that the adjacent bath exhaust is using? I’d rather not have to cut another hole in the roof.
Thanks!
Edited 10/30/2002 6:22:33 PM ET by BANKSRVA
I am planning to install an exhaust fan in a bathroom. Can I tie in to the exsisting ductwork that the adjacent bath exhaust is using? I’d rather not have to cut another hole in the roof.
Thanks!
The RealTruck AMP Research Bedsteps give you easy access to your truck-bed storage.
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox
Fine Homebuilding
Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox
© 2024 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.
Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.
Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox
Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.
Start Your Free TrialStart your subscription today and save up to 70%
SubscribeGet complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.
Already a member? Log in
Replies
If you do, I'd recommend installing a new inline fan downstream from where the two ducts intersect into one. That would prevent one fan from stuffing the moist air back into the other bath.
Then I guess you could wire it up with 3-way switches in each bath to turn it on. But the problem with that is if the fan is quiet enough it may not be obvious if the fan is on just by looking at switch position.
I don't know if this is kosher for code, but your could use regular single pole swithes if they both switched the same hot to the fan (in parallel).
That would mean:
both on(up)=fan on,
either one on(up)=fan on,
both off(down)=fan off
The other option if you can't do the in-line would be some sort of flapper valve or damper on the two legs before the intersection. . . .
One way to control the single fan is a double pole switch. Use the same switch to controll the lights. One pole is used for the lights in that bath. The other pole is paralled with the 2nd pole from the other switch.
If you want the fan controlled separately then use a switch with an indicator light so that you know when it is on.
Or use humistats in each bathroom wired in parallel so that the fans are automatic.
"That would prevent one fan from stuffing the moist air back into the other bath."
Every bath fan I've seen has a flap to prevent the backflow of air from the exhaust side. Wouldn't that be enough?Progress is made by lazy men looking for easier ways to do things.
now that you mention it . . .you are right. Steelkilt Lives!
i did mined that way and it pass code, if fact the inspector told me to do it that way.
Boss got it.
If your old fan doesn't have a backflow damper, install one in the existing line just upstream of where you cut the new vent line into the existing line.
If your connection is as close as possible to the roof vent, you should be okay.
Although, if one of the bath fans is used rarely, I could see some condensate forming in the lesser used run.
sometimes board sometimes knot
This is a common and acceptable practice. If you have access to the existing fan, diconnect the duct from it and make sure that it has a backdraft damper (the flap at the outlet). If there is no damper at the fan, you could backfeed exaust into that bath, though almost all bath exhaust fan come standard with a damper. If the run is long, say over 15 feet, you may want to upsize the existing duct from the junction to the roof jack. This depends on information not provided, fan capacity, existing duct size, length and configuration of the duct and the size of the roof jack. (2) 3" or (2) 4" could be handled by a single 6", for instance.