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Bathtub fixtures and surround wall di…

| Posted in General Discussion on April 12, 2001 06:11am

*
What are the common heights for the following?

1. Outlet spout above top of tub?

2. Water mixing faucets above the top of tub or above spout?

3. Shower head above top of tub?

Also is it common to extend the side walls beyond the front face of the tub for a small reveal or flush with the front face of the tub (of course allowance for backer board and tile figured in). If a reveal is better looking how much? Either way I’m fitting a 60″ tub into a 69″ space with a 4 1/2″ jog on each side of the tub.

Thanks, Tony

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  1. Jon_Byrd | Apr 11, 2001 02:28am | #1

    *
    Tony,
    I installed a Kohler 3 side with Price Pfister (not necessarily endorsing those) fixtures. The fixtures did come with a nice diagram indicating the dimensions for height above the tub. My spigot is 5 inches on center above and the fixtures are 17 inches on center. These may not be standard.
    As for the flushness of the walls, the three sided tub comes with a nailing flange that protrudes upwards along the three sides. This is designed to nail the tub to the horizontal stud supports. If you wanted a recess, you could certainly do that but you will need a "box" to nail the tub to and will have to come up an inch or two above the tub to round the corner over the nailing flange. This is certainly feasible, just think about the position of the spigot as it may not reach to the tub in this arrangement. I wanted to put mine at the front of the side wall to make the tub more comfortable for two (forseeing that I would always get the spigot end), but the queen nixed that idea as it would "look funny".
    Have a good helper on hand to help you move it and verify the measurements, you don't want to do this twice!
    Best of luck,,

    Jon Byrd

    1. Jon_Byrd | Apr 11, 2001 02:35am | #2

      *One other thing, I think it would be easier if you have existing drywall to do what you are talking about, just build your box at each end and fit it in. Then you can attach your backer board to the existing walls if they are stable and in good condition. You might investigate the possibility of a goose neck type of tub filler which would protrude up from the front "shelf" and curl over to fill the tub. I don't know if such things exist, but would be worth investigating. Could be placed neatly in the corner..Jon

      1. tony_soprano | Apr 11, 2001 06:43am | #3

        *Thanks Jon,I'm not sure your thinking the same thing I am with regards to the end walls. My tub is also a Kohler (cast iron by the way, the real deal)and the width is 32". What I'm refering to is the short walls at either end protruding past the 32" width say about 3 to 6 inches, giving that recessed look as the tub sits in the three wall box. Since my room width is 69 inches, I need to build two short end walls perpendicular from the 60 inch back wall and 4 1/2" in from each end wall to give me my 60 x 32 three wall box. Was wondering if the extra few inches that the wall would extend out from the face of the tub is a better look or if the walls should end at the face of the tub at 32 inches. Also how about the shower head height? Reason asked is for the plumbing rough ins before tub is installed and by the way it weighs a ton help moving is a must. Thanks again, Tony

        1. Bill_Brennen | Apr 11, 2001 09:32am | #4

          *Tony,I like shower heads 6'-8" to 7'-0" off the floor so a tall guy like me can shampoo his head without needing to bend his neck in an awkward way.My 2 cents on the walls is to stick them at least 2" past the tub so that the strip of tile at either end of the tub apron is wide enough to look right. I usually try to work from a full tile at the outside edge of the end walls to a 3/4 tile or so at the inside corners.Bill

          1. Jon_Byrd | Apr 12, 2001 03:36am | #5

            *Tony,My shower protrudes from the wall 67" above the top of the tub and 85.5" above the tub bottom. Of course subtract a few inches for actual height of the shower head. I made mine a tad higher than usual for the same reason as previously mentioned, the water falls down on you instead of pelting you like driving rain. I attached a photo of my price pfister manual illustrating the "standard" dimensions. Still having trouble visualizing your wall plan, but I say if it doesn't hinder you getting in and out of the tub, and you like the idea, go for it. To hell with convention!Jon

          2. tony_soprano | Apr 12, 2001 05:24am | #6

            *Thanks again Jon,I guess a picture is worth a thousand words. On my tub install, my bathroom is 69" wide. One side of the width is an exterior wall and the other is a interior partition wall with the entry door down about 6'. My tub is 60" wide which means I have to build two short walls to shorten my 69" width to 60". This would leave 4 1/2 inches on either side of my rough 60" opening. Since these walls run parallel with the interior and exterior walls I'm also wondering how to attach them to walls that run on the 69" width. A 2x4 wall at 3 1/2" leaves a 1" gap on each side. This room spans two rooms in house with different ceiling elevations so nailing into the ceiling joists is not really and option. Any thoughts?

          3. Jon_Byrd | Apr 12, 2001 05:56am | #7

            *Well it sounds as if I wasn't too far off, but instead of running the walls to the ceiling, I was thinking you might just be constructing boxes on each side flush with the top of the tub so you would have a shelf of sorts (makes a great place to set your beer glass!).So my next question would be, Is your tub the oval clawfoot or the three side flange with an apron? I'm not a professional but I would say that if you are intent on building full height walls on each end, you will need to nail them to the ceiling for support. Especially if you are going to hang wonderboard and tile for the surround. That stuff easily adds 8 pounds per square foot. I'm no framing expert, but you might possibly be able to use horizontal supports at the top of the wall tying into the wall behind. I've enclosed a pic which might be helpful from an old Reader's Digest home improvement book (reproduced without permission). I hope it helps. If not, hopefully a more astute expert will drop in..Jon

          4. tony_soprano | Apr 12, 2001 06:11am | #8

            *Jon,Mine is the three sided flange and apron a Kohler Mendota K-505. I may have to frame a lower ceiling off my interior and exterior walls just so I can catch my two tub walls at the top, yes full length with rock board and tile. Still need to fill that 1 inch gap between the walls on both sides to catch the corners of the board. This ceiling will be only in the tub area. The rest will fall into the main portion of the house so no need for adjustments due to everything catching second floor ceiling joists.

  2. tony_soprano | Apr 12, 2001 06:11am | #9

    *
    What are the common heights for the following?

    1. Outlet spout above top of tub?

    2. Water mixing faucets above the top of tub or above spout?

    3. Shower head above top of tub?

    Also is it common to extend the side walls beyond the front face of the tub for a small reveal or flush with the front face of the tub (of course allowance for backer board and tile figured in). If a reveal is better looking how much? Either way I'm fitting a 60" tub into a 69" space with a 4 1/2" jog on each side of the tub.

    Thanks, Tony

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