FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

Bathtub Reglaze

cameraman | Posted in General Discussion on August 25, 2009 05:36am

Ran a search but no results……tell me everything I need to know about have a old CI tub reglazed.

Not lined or DIY, but reglazed!!!

Reply
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Replies

  1. jet | Aug 25, 2009 07:22pm | #1

    http://www.servicemagic.com/tloc/Detroit-MI/Bathtub-or-Other-Bath-or-Kitchen-Surface-Resurface-or-Reface/

    http://www.drexelco.com/

    http://www.uniquerefinishers.com/

    http://www.refinishingonline.com/michigan.htm

    1. cameraman | Aug 25, 2009 07:52pm | #2

      Googled and came up with most of those sites.

       

      Just woundering if it as good as they advertize.

      Have a company a few miles away and I will ask for some references and follow up with them.

       

      Thanks.

       

      1. JimR1998 | Aug 27, 2009 06:41am | #10

        We had our pink tub epoxyed white about 4 years ago. It cost about $350 including a sand texture safety coating. It still looks good for the price. If you really look you can see the imperfections, many of which were there on day one. We aren't too careful when we clean it and it looks much nicer than many original finishes with rust stains or chips.Two things to watch out for:minor - if the coating is not sprayed evenly or sprayed too thick you will get areas of the tub that puddle ever-so-slightly when the water drains. These areas will start to wear first and somehow get small amounts of midlew underneath that requires extra scrubbing to get clean.major - make sure the whole area is taped off and there is some kind of air filtering mechanism used. The guy who did ours is probably dead if the condition of our house was anything like his lungs. EVERYTHING was covered with overspray and an epoxy mist. HVAC contractors working at the time called me at work to complain about the conditions-- not about the 150 degree heat in the attic but they couldn't breath because of the guy spraying paint. You couldn't see out the screen in the bathroom it was that bad. I asked the guy if he reglazed the mirror for free and he had some stupid laugh. Luckily we were getting new windows and weren't living in the house at the time or I would have flipped.Like any other work, make sure you're there when it's being done.

  2. migraine | Aug 25, 2009 08:53pm | #3

    Personally, i think it is a wate of money, unless you only have $500-$700 and you don't need any other updating like tile, fixtures. 

    The origional tub may have lasted 20-50 years, but the reglazing(not real reglazing but a form of "paint") will not last nearly that long.  The local shops around here only warranty for 1-3 years and only one for 7 years.  That doesn't cover abuse, and improper cleaning solvents/agents.

    One large franchise is bathtub miracle method.

    1. cameraman | Aug 25, 2009 09:14pm | #4

      This is the kind of input I am looking for.

      I realize it's only a tought paint. But woundering how long it last.

      I plan on retiling the surrounds and fixtures.

       

      Tub is old and big deep CI. I am dreading the slege hammer and hauling it down the steps.

      I'll take a photo tonight and post it, get opinions.

      1. jimk | Aug 26, 2009 03:32am | #8

        I had mine done about 4 yrs ago. Cost about $300 IIRC. Still looks like new. I opted to have it done for the same reasons you mentioned.

        A few things though. The guy left some literature on how to care for it,and basically any kind of mat you would normally put in the tub to keep from slipping is a no-no. Took a while to get used to having nothing there.

        Also,the tub needs to be recaulked and I'm worried about removing the old caulk without scratching or scraping the coating. 

        Look the tub over real good before the guy leaves. A day or two later I found a couple of runs and noticed when he masked off the edge of the tub,he didn't follow the curve of the edge on one side.The edge rounds over and he just made a 90 degree corner with the masking resulting in a small triangle of coating being painted on the tile. ( the tub and the tile are both white,so you have to look to be able to see it ,but once you do its fairly noticable)It didnt bother me enough to call him back,but I wish I had noticed it when he was still here. 

        Edited 8/25/2009 8:35 pm ET by jimk

      2. Jencar | Aug 27, 2009 06:53am | #11

        This Monday I demo'd the tile bed around our old CI and it took two burly plumbers to wrestle it out the door.Asked why they didn't just break it up with a sledge, and Don said that he's been cut pretty badly by the slivered enamel edge doing it that way.We bought an American Standard Americast Princeton as a decent replacement, as we put that one in our other bathroom last year.

        1. cameraman | Aug 27, 2009 05:36pm | #14

          If I don't reglaze, the AS Ameriacast tub is my choice too.

          I also have the tile set into the old mudbase, thick stuff.

          I am leaning towards the sledge hammer way, then I will have a clean start.

          The tub is not really made for showering and the way the tub is made and set, it's just more water problem than I want on the 2nd floor.

          But smashing up a CI tub can be dangerous!!!  Have your eye protection & bandaids ready!!!

          1. Jencar | Aug 27, 2009 06:38pm | #15

            I've heard it's possible to cut them into chunks with a Sawzall (and a LOT of blades) I'd be concerned about the amount of Silica dust created by this technique.

        2. cameraman | Aug 28, 2009 05:55pm | #16

          Where did you purchase you tub?? Plumbing wholesaler or big box??

          The AS website showes the Princeton @ 17 1/2" deep and Lowes showes the same @ 14" deep.

          The big box stores will speck out to the manufactor a different, cheaper, product, to make it appear that they sell the same for less.

           

          Generally, you pay less, you get less.

           

           

          1. Jencar | Aug 29, 2009 08:24am | #17

            Hmmmm...
            Got ours at Blowes for $300, then saw it at HD for $20 less.
            The look like the same thing, tho.Ours is 13.75" deep.17" seems more like the depth of a whirlpool tub.

          2. DanT | Aug 29, 2009 12:48pm | #18

            There are two Princeton models.  Big boxes carry the shorter of the two.  We used to install the shorter unit if someone took showers or they were a senior that needed a lower step but still wanted a tub.

            We had a few that we had to warranty because the finish chipped away around the drain.  It was difficult to get warranty from the manufacture going through a BB store. 

            Another option that we liked and stocked was the American Standard Solar model tub.  It is a steel tub with a porcelin finish.  You can buy a knock off at the BB for $100 but the finish is thin as well as the steel. 

            We ordered ours through a wholesaler for around $200 but I believe the BB list was only $300 or so.  These tubs have a nice finish, durable, you can get them in colors and we never had a complaint or call back on one.  Probably have installed around 50.  They are value priced (in my opinion) and yet a durable product as we have removed many steel tubs over the years that were 20+ years old.  We always set ours in a bed of mortar.  DanT

          3. Jencar | Aug 30, 2009 04:49am | #20

            What's the advantage to setting it in mortar? (not a mud person)Princeton comes with a lifetime warranty, doesn't mean much if you have to demo the tile to get the tub out and send it back.Many (rich) people here decide to completely remodel their bathrooms every 7 or 8 years, redo the tile and everything.

          4. DanT | Aug 30, 2009 12:12pm | #21

            We found that if you put a large person, lets say 250lbs in a bath tub with say 30 gallons of water which would weigh another 240lbs that even if the tub didn't flex it would move up and down some and slowly work the caulk joints loose. 

            Since the steel tub, fiberglass tubs etc. don't have the structural strength of a cast iron we would mix up a half a bag of premixed mortar and lay it under the tub to fill in the gap between the floor and the tub which really firms them up.  Cheap, simple and a much better product in my opinion. 

             Americast directions say not to do this so we didn't on those but after the warranty deal on 3 of them and we also found they chip easy we stopped installing them on all but the need for a low sided tub for seniors. 

            We tried the warranty thing.  It is trying and taxing when the tub was purchased through a big box store and when in business quickly becomes not worth the time.  I think they figure no need to be helpful since you probably as a retail customer won't be buying another soon.  And it only covers the tub, not the install which is really the whole cost on a tub.  DanT

          5. Jencar | Aug 30, 2009 08:42pm | #23

            Thank you...that makes a lot of sense!

          6. Pelipeth | Aug 30, 2009 01:06pm | #22

            Where I live most of the plumbing supply houses carry a product called
            Structolite. Silimiar, but stronger than plaster-of-paris (spelling).
            Sets up in minutes, the tub will not move. Basically a better in-
            stallation. Always pre-moisten the sub flooring.

          7. Jencar | Aug 30, 2009 08:45pm | #24

            Thanks...
            I'll ask the plumber if they can use that for a little extra support.
            The old cast iron tub weighed about 300 lbs and was 1/4 to 3/8 thick.
            No worry about that flexing!

  3. YesMaam27577 | Aug 25, 2009 09:14pm | #5

    Like Migraine said -- an in-place "reglazing" is actually nothing more than a thick coat of epoxy paint.

    Done right, it will look terrific -- for a year or so. In three years, you'll be disappointed, and in five you'll probably be upset.

    I won't be laughing at the lies when I'm gone,
    And I can't question how or when or why when I'm gone;
    I can't live proud enough to die when I'm gone,
    So I guess I'll have to do it while I'm here. (Phil Ochs)

  4. pgproject | Aug 26, 2009 12:21am | #6

    We have a rental with a really nice mud-bed tile job over a cast iron tub. Probably done in the 20's or 30's. Rather than re-do the whole bath, we have the tub 'refinished' (epoxy paint, really) every three or four years when we change tenants.

    Well worth it (around $300). If no scouring powder is used, lasts 3-4 years, if damaged, tenant pays. I figure we can do this around 10 times before it costs more than the alternative.

    Bill

    1. migraine | Aug 26, 2009 12:44am | #7

      $300 for a coating, not a bad price.  I have been quoted $500+ and that is for a vergin tub.  Recoating a previously coated one has an additional charge.

  5. designbing | Aug 26, 2009 06:08am | #9

    I have used it for several of my clients but especially for tubs that have a finished end.  I tell clients upfront that it will last at best 5 years and the only cleanser to use is Bon Ami.  Have not had a single complaint! And by not replacing the tub the client generally used the money saved to upgrade fixtures or tile in the "new" bathroom.

    It definitly has its place.

    Bing

  6. user-144646 | Aug 27, 2009 08:30am | #12

    We had a very heavy cast iron tub that I did not want to break up and haul out so I had it coated about 8 years ago. The guy was in there for about 3 hours, and did a beautiful job. I've got one small chip where my kids dropped a bath toy or something. Other than that it still looks great. I cost me about $250 or so. If you like the design of the tub I would get a coat of expoxy on it and save your self alot of trouble.

    Dave

  7. Pelipeth | Aug 27, 2009 11:52am | #13

    I've had great results using a local vendor here in West. Cty. NY.
    He does a clean job and provides a lifetime warranty. Been using him
    for years, maybe one/two jobs per year. Approx $400.00 for a std. tub.

  8. DanT | Aug 29, 2009 12:54pm | #19

    We have a guy in our area that does the reglaze thing.  He uses car paint basiclly.  The prep is where it is at.  Good prep and the finish lasts 5-7 years.  Bad prep and it last 5-7 months. 

    I have seen these tubs go as long as 10 years but most are in the 5-7 year window and then some of the finish around the drains, overflows etc.  start lifting.

    The guy that I know is really sharp at it, does nice work and is honest about its ability to last.  It is all he does and he is almost always busy and busy enough to be glad when he is not.  He charges $3-400 for a tub and a little more for extended travel.  DanT

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

A Practical Perfect Wall

Getting the details right for a wall assembly with the control layers to the exterior and lots of drying potential.

Featured Video

A Modern California Home Wrapped in Rockwool Insulation for Energy Efficiency and Fire Resistance

The designer and builder of the 2018 Fine Homebuilding House detail why they chose mineral-wool batts and high-density boards for all of their insulation needs.

Related Stories

  • Midcentury Home for a Modern Family
  • The New Old Colonial
  • Modern and Minimal in the Woods
  • Bryce Hollingsworth, Dry-Stone Waller

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 333 - August/September 2025
    • A Practical Perfect Wall
    • Landscape Lighting Essentials
    • Repairing a Modern Window Sash
  • Issue 332 - July 2025
    • Custom Built-ins With Job-Site Tools
    • Fight House Fires Through Design
    • Making the Move to Multifamily
  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

Enjoy unlimited access to Fine Homebuilding. Join Now

Already a member? Log in

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data