What is the proper flashing detail for a bay window roof. It appears to be retro-fitted
on the gable end of a brick house. As it is now, the roofing goes up and dies into the
bricks via a big bead of silicone, with no flashing. The roof is 3 sided [hip] and is
sagging and has pulled away from the brick/silicone at the top. The window itself is
still level and plumb. Homeowner says its been this way for years. Sooo, my plan
was to tear off the roof and decking to check for water damage and replace. Doesn’t
this need a flashing let into the brick wall above the shingles? what’s the best way
to flash this? If so, would it be best to mortor the flashing in or silicone it in? Any
advice would be appreciated.
Replies
You want to step flash the shingles then counter flash the steps. We kerf the mortar w/ a diamond grinder wheel and insert the counters in the kerf, tapered coiled plugs of sheet metal hold the counter in and then the whole kerf is caulked w/ geocel or Lexel.
An alternaative way is a continuous kerf across the bricks and joints and a solid counter flash is applied ...
we recently have been encountering some really damm hard bricks, and my most recent job, I wish I had gone into the mortar vs across the brick...it took a lot of cutting , and it was slow going.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Sphere,
Could you explain more on the tapered coil plugs that hold the counter flash in. Is this something I buy or make?
Also, on the alternate way that you describe, is the solid counter flash used with step flashing on the sides or in place of? On this roof the shingles hit the wall right in the middle of a course of bricks at the top( could be changed I guess if I'm rebuilding anyway) so, I'm thinking this method may be the best answer.
If I understand this correctly I'll have to cut through the bricks on an angle anyway on the two short sides to follow the roof line of the window roof with the counterflash. How deep do ya make this kerf? 1/2''? What type of flashing do ya reccommend, Galv? Copper?
Sorry for all the questions man, but I've just never dealt with this detail on a brick house before. Anyway, thanks for your time.
Ok, the plugs are the same no matter how ya go abou it. Yes the kerf needs to be at least half inch ( if the lip of the counter flash is at least 3/8) we go a tad deeper as a rule.
Take a pc of copper ( about all we use) and snip it to about 1/2'' wide ...as deep as your kerf ideally, and as long as about 2'' , this is determined by the width of the kerf...you may well need only 1 1/2 long going in a new kerf.
Have hand seamers? or sheet metal jaw vise grips? hold on end of the soon to be coil and wrap/roll it so it loks like a clock spring with the center pushed out..crimp flat the wide/open end..that is what you insert into the kerf and hammer home to other pointy cone end..it expands in the kerf and holds the lip of the flashing in the kerf. It takes a bit of practice to get fast at it.
Yes, Steps no matter what, then counter. Again, we do almost all copper, so our flashing is all copper. If the shingles and steps are meeting at the half a brick, that is fine, the counter goes in the next joint up.
Where you are climbing up the sides of the roof, the counters are triangular and walk up sucessive joints and over lap each other as well as covering the steps. I add a poprivet at the bottom if it won't lay tite to the step..rivet high up on the step.
Caulk all areas wind or water will play adversly.
Much easier to do than type out.
I'll see if I can show the technique for rolling a plug later today.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
sorry for the blurry pics, I was shivering (still am). The first pic shows the three steps, second shows how to hold the strip and roll it, 3rd is the flattened end.
Again sorry for the shakey blur..
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
upload is screwy now..try # 2..
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Not to hijack-just a quick question?
Do you guys use any Fairmont tongs?
Fairmont? You mean the big azzed two handers for the hip seams? If so, then yes, we have them. If not, please educate me on what they are.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Sphere,
Just a different brand than the one in your picture.
I like the feel of them a lot,esp. the angled ones.
They're made by the same company that makes Klenk snips I think-I'll look it up tonite when I have more time or send out a picture later
Ok, I googled and found Klenk tools..neat-o site for cool stuff. Dale has a pair of off set tongs like those shown on the site..came in right handy for crimping the drip edge folds over existing gutter on a 12/12.
I blame YOU now Walter, I am going shopping.LOL
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
There will be no blame after you've used them-just be thankful you own a pair.
Super balance and feel esp. like you said for tough spots.
It's only money.I got my DW shear from E-Bay,but haven't tried it yet.How about you?
The web site for Lowes rebates SAID it was shipped, but after a few emails, I found it won't be here for another 2 weeks. I used Dales last week and I love it, man the tendonitis will never get better without up grading my tools.
I am really dissatisfied with Wiss snips lately..they are junk. I snagged a pair of Malco reds a while back, and they are good but not pointy enough for tite curves , like a gutter drop cut out.
Speaking of gutters, know where I can find a visegrip type clamp that clamps 'k'style gutter profile to profile? Maybe I should check out vise grip site. We just fabbed 90' of K gutter and about 5 miters all together..soldered, the HO didn't want to see any rivets so we ground them off and ground the soldered joints to make em pretty..and the killer is.....it all gets PAINTED!! arrghh..copper gutter, and paint. Some people.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
I hate Klenks. They're less pointy than Malcos.Birth, school, work, death.....................
http://grantlogan.net/
Thats good to know..I didn't order anything anyway.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Thanks, I think I understand it now.
Dug, can you snap a picture of this repair project? Your description of the original installation is exactly the same as the one on my home, which was built ~6 years ago. Of course, code has change since then, and instead of changing with the code the builder stopped installing bay windows. :)
This means nothing in my case.
Nuke,
I'll try to get a before and after pic, but right now customer has gone out of town for couple weeks so don't look for it anytime soon. Also, someone here will have to help me download it; me not too puter savvy!