I’m getting ready to install beadboard ceiling in my kitchen and living room. Any advice on which material to use? I like the thought of using real wood planks (5/16″) but feel they may take longer to install and may warp over time. Plywood seems to be a good middle ground but more cumbersome to put up and may warp some over time. MDF seems seems stable and I have to say looks pretty good on the surface, I just don’t like it as a material.
I’d appreciate any guidance on these three material options (and any other tips).
Thanks
Replies
Think about movement
Plywood would be pretty stable, but you have to figure out how to treat the joints. Wood will move with changes in humidity. If your indoor RH is relatively constant year 'round, not a huge deal. Be sure to leave a gap at both ends of the room that's parallel to the grain to allow for seasonal expension. Cover that with molding. The other choices are fine, but the little defects that show up with wood say to me that it's the real deal. MDF is probably a great choice and it paints exceptionally well, but you have to gap it on all four sides since it doesn't have grain. Same with PVC if you go that route - PVC doesn't change with humidity, but with temperature.
wood rules....
If money is no concern it's a no brainer for me. The 5/16" planks are easy to handle and actually look like wood. The end joints will look like wood even with a less than perfect job. Why do these planks look like real wood? Hmmmm.....Anyway, plywood will always look like plywood, ditto the MDF. If the planks warp over time then something is probably done wrong.
For my thinking plywood is OK for an economy porch ceiling and MDF, umm, well it paints nicely.
Of course, one problem with planks is that you have a lot of seams, and a lot of opportunity for them to open up.
Biggest concern for me with sheet goods would be the panel seams, especially the butt seams.
For a large expanse of ceiling, if you can go with 16' sticks (usually 5/8" thick) you can get a better looking install.
If you want to use the 5/16" 8' long sticks, the T&G aspect should provide stability.
You can paint the tongues prior to installation so that if you get significant movement you won't have any unpainted slivers showing.
Thanks for the comments. I'm leaning harder to the real wood.
Hi, I’m Adam Brown, Project Manager and Site Supervisor for Peter Di Natale & Associates, Inc. MDF would be my material of choice. Along with the warping issues you mentioned, solid wood expands and contracts depending on environmental conditions. Plywood is rarely flat and, depending on the detail, the laminations may be visible. MDF is stable and is paintable and would be the way I’d go in this situation.