Hi all !
Kind of a silly question, I’m sure, to many of you.. Anyway, I’m about to install 5/8 inch thick MDF beadboard panels in my bathroom. Couple of things have me scratching my head about the ‘right’ way to do it, so I thought I get it from the Pros.
Since my panels are 5/8 inch thick and will be glued/nailed to the drywall, my plan was to remove the baseboard and reapply to the panels. This presents a problem around doors, where the door trim is 3/4 inch thick. Once I have added the beadboard, the baseboard will now sit proud of the door trim. Should I also remove the door trim and add a ‘spacer’ of 5/8 inch between the drywall and door trim ?
Similar issues present themselves with the window ? Do I remove the apron and reapply ?
Lastly, what are the standard heights for beadboard from the floor ? My window sill is at about 35 inches off the finished floor.
Thanks in advance for any comments.
Regards,
Robert.
Replies
I'd lose the base board and sit the bead board on a 5/8 or 3/4 " base. This also eliminates all the holes between the base and beads.
As for height got me... its what works best not what everyone else does. I doubt anyone will come in and measure it. Sounds like the sills will determine the height allowing for a cap to either die into or go under it.
Edited 8/27/2002 7:34:23 PM ET by GEOB21
MDF beadboard in high humidity area?
What would you recommend ? It is pre-primed, and I was going to back prime before I install it. Would moisture still be an issue if all surfaces are sealed ? If I used individual boards, would I have cup and warp problems ?
I wouldn't put it in my own house in a possible wet location...but I guess if had to put it someone else's, I might prime all sides and the cut ends...I'm just not sure primer is going seal to MDF enough...I'd feel better about beadboard plywood, or solid wood beadboard...just MHO. And on warping and cupping, the narrower the pieces, the less that seems to happen, swelling and flaking is the prob with MDF...I'd go with ply here...good luck, whatever you do.
Edited 8/28/2002 5:45:23 PM ET by bucksnort billy
Thanks. As a result of your sage advice it prompted me to research this some more, and you are very correct. Both G-P and Nantucket Beaboard, both of whom sell similar MDF beaded panels explicitly say that these panels should not be used in high humidity areas (like a bathroom). Fortunately I haven't started this project yet, so I can return the $350 worth of product sitting in my shop and buy T&G boards.
One more question before I leave you alone. When installing the individual boards, glued with construction adhesive, should I nail each board through the tongue ? If so, should I install some kind of strapping first or just nail into the drywall and hope for the best since I'll only hit a stud every few boards ?
Cheers,
Robert.
I think the beadboard going above the window sill would look the best. How about back banding the casing to increase depth so you can accommodate the baseboard. Also I agree that the beadboard should sit on the base for it to look good.
Tom
Edited 8/29/2002 3:23:28 PM ET by TOMCHARK
You're insticts are working for you, improper material for the job.
Why say or read more?
It ain't me, babe...mdf means "more dang funds" for me when replacement time comes...
i'd have to agree with the others that mdf is not the right material for a bathroom. i would suggest using 3/8" plywood beadboard. this would probably alleviate the problem with your door trim, if not i might consider using another type casing such as howe casing. as far as the height of the wainescoat i use the 1/3 of the height of the wall for the finish height. in your case, i would run the beadboard about 1" above the sill height so that your cap trim would not interfere with the window sill and i would install the beadboard under the apron.