Hi All,
I’d like some advice on beadboard paneling. My house is a new construction, and I would like to put the paneling directly onto the studs. Some have told me to first put up drywall, and others say it can go directly onto the studs and over the insulation.
What do you think?
Engineered materials and vacuum-press laminations prevent warping and keep a tall, flush-panel door from being excessively heavy.
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Replies
I've seen many use construction adhesive, just gluing the T&G boards to gyprock.
First of all, a taped and sealed gyprock job is a pretty good vapor barrier, especially if one doesn't use poly sheeting underneath. Secondly, it contains the insulation, and if cellulose is used, you'll want some containment.
Furthermore, gluing on the boards precludes any need for horizontal blocking. A little bit of finish nailing might be necessary at outside corners, but that's it.
What about outlet boxes cable/electrical?
Do they get set at the level of drywall, or the panel?
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WWPD
about outlet boxes cable/electrical
Bring those out to the paneling. Either set them "long" or add extension (mud) rings. This is code many places. Adding extension rings can make the electrical rough-in a bit simpler; or save a step checking it.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
"Either set them "long" or add extension (mud) rings. This is code many places. Adding extension rings can make the electrical rough-in a bit simpler; or save a step checking it."There is a difference between mud rings and extensions.Mud rings need to be installed before the wall finish goes up. and in some cases it can buy you a little space. (A LOT of space if you use a 4x4 box with a single gang mud ring).An box extender is for after thoughs. It does not buy you any volumne.Another option is to use adjust able boxes..
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
and I would like to put the paneling directly onto the studs.
That may well depend on how your wall needs to be built as part of the house's "envelope." You may well be better off with some sort of sheet backing to hold in insulation, or to support a VB or the like.
If you are thinking of "sheet" beadboard, you will be sore disappointed in the end results if you go straight on the studs. If you are using individual boards, you'll want some sort of horizontals to support the boards anyway. That gets you to some sort of "skip sheathing," and filling that in to make one nailing plane is not that much additional effort (and can be less effort over all).
It can be done. It can even be done well. But, it's also real easy to not do well. You really, really, need to lay out how the finish is going to tie into the rest of the other finishes, too. Very much a good case to draw this on the subfloor to scale just to be sure (much simpler than trying to get that door casing to be asymetrical, or some such).
That would depend in part on how thick the paneling is. Thin, cheap stuff will definetly need some type of backing, or else even minor variations of the framing plane will telegraph through. Thicker stuff ....5/8" or better...less crucial.
Personally though, I prefer to have the wainscotting....actual beadboard or paneling....stand proud of the drywall surface. Gives it visual depth and substance. So I typically back it. I prefer a wood backing. Either firring strips or plywood of equal thickness, but rather than sheetrock.
Proper foresight is critical. Make sure any/all casings/base mouldings are set to accomodate the differences in wall surfaces.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
Is that acceptable from a fire safety/code point of view - to go right on the studs?
Why wouldn't it be?
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
I thought 5/8" DW was spec'ed sometimes for fire resistance. Am I wrong?
I was checking that that was not the case here.
Oh....maybe I read it wrong. I thought you asked if it was a fire hazard to install beadboard directly to the studs.
Don't recall you even mentioning 5/8" rock.
5/8" fire rated sheetrock is often spec'd...attached garages, mechanical rooms, etc.
Any area where a potential for fire is a possibility, in hopes to contain or at least delay its spreading.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
Either way works fine. You have to add blocking to place it on the same plane as the sheetrock, but some chairrail detailing works out better that way, or a tight fit behind a door, or where diminsions are tight in a bathroom.
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I'm doing a bathroom right now with beadboard paneling on the walls to a height of about 64". The beadboard is 5/8" x 3-1/2" boards and we are installing it over the studs, so that it it is flush with the sheetrock (also 5/8"). When done this way the door and window casings can be the usual ~3/4" thick and don't need a backband--the casing will be applied over the sheetrock and the paneling.
We're running two courses of horizontal blocking to nail the paneling to.
If you panel over the sheetrock (and you use 5/8" paneling, which is pretty typical thickness for beadboard) you should give some forethought to how you are going to case the openings.
I went over the rock w/3/4" BB "paneling" for a cpl of reasons...one reason was, I had already put the rock up...lol. (The BB was an after thought)
But...I did want the bb out from the rest of the rock for the detail/depth and for the cap molding to look nice.
I used the good stuff btw.
I enclosed another picture of a bathroom I did here using actual bead board "planks" and not the thin crap stuff either...this was 3/4" "knotty" BB I back primed and I went over skip sheathing I installed first. i used knotty cause I thought it was most appropriate for this house (circa 1680).
DW is busting my chops to finish that room. I started it 4 years ago...first room I started last to be finished probably (if she doesn't kill me first : )
Have fun
Be well
Namaste'
what else? oh yeh
andy.....
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