Hello All,
I want to install a beadboard wainscotting in my rec room that is on the first floor of a bi-level. In looking at a back issues of Fine Homebuilding I found an article where the author installed the beadboard over plywood installed after removing the sheetrock (Fine Homebuilding 173, pp. 48-53, September 1, 2005)
1. I would like to apply the beadboard directly over the sheetrock and use blocking installed during framing to fasten boards high and low. My beadboard height is appox 41 inches. Would that be OK? I was thinking of not using an adhesive in case someday, somebody wants to remove the wainscot and expose the underlying sheetrock.
2. Can someone recommend an engineered product for me to evaluate. My local lumber yard has something called Kleer Trimboard which makes the beadboard planks. Runs $4/sf. They also have natural wood in various lengths at $1.50/sf. These days, it sounds like it’s going to be wood with 200 sf of work area.
Thanks!
Replies
I'd use the adhesive.
I like the Azec beadboard.
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Use adhesive(PL) sheetrock is cheap.
Azek is great if it maybe be getting wet, in a dry area wood is the way to go , as long as you can aclimate it before installing.
with wood, you need to prime it first. The Azec doesn't move at all, and doesn't even need any paint at all if you want it white. It is only about 7/16" thick. And there is no waste factor for splits and knots.
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I use azek all the time in bathrooms- works great!
Otherwise Windsor one beadboard is a lot less money and I seldom see the stark white of Azek used outside the bath, gotta paint it anyway.
I've used a MDF 4' x 8' beadboard paneling several times now, both on walls and on a ceiling. It's 1/2" thick, and has a very nice bead detail to it.
Being a panel, it goes up quite quickly, and being MDF, it paints up very well.
Just don't use it if there's any excessive dampness.
Your studwall just happens to have blocking at the right height? Wonder who went to all that trouble. Anyway, I have a regular client (my wife) who runs an in home daycare. The play area was built by the 1st owner with just cheap 1/4 panel over studs. The kids give it a work over but it had held up just fine. It would be considerably stronger if it had gypboard under it--can hardly imagine going so far as to install plywood in place of the gypboard. I would be more concerned with your use rather than the POSSIBILITY the next guy would want to remove it. Of course, I don't want to be the contractor hired to remove it after gluing. But that is why my contracts have certain clauses in them. Tyr
I have used Windsor One 1" x 6" beadboard in basements. It's a wood product, but is triple primed and fairly stable. I applied it over the sheetrock and used minimal adhesive. I used the adhesive because I applied it over the sheetrock. I put a spot of adhesive on the wall at the top and bottom of each piece. I will try to find some pictures to post.
Yeah, the windsor one products are great too
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I used the standard 4" (3.5" actual I think) poplar profile with a two piece head. Glued it directly to the sheetrock. It's held up great.
Runnerguy