Replies

1. 
   USAnigel | Apr 27, 2008 04:15pm | #1

   If the "D" handle has the on/off switch on it, then that's the way to go. Many routers are not easy to turn off with the switching placement.

1. 
   MarkH | Apr 27, 2008 04:22pm | #2

   D handles encourage one handed operation, and are easy to turn on by accident.I'd go for a two hand operated one, like a PC 100.But, either is good.

1. 
   USAnigel | Apr 27, 2008 04:27pm | #3

   I like the power of the PC but I don't like letting go to turn it off! I miss the old B&D with the switch on the top that could be turned off with being placed on a flat surface.

    

1. 
   dcarroll3000 | Apr 27, 2008 04:35pm | #4

   Thanks for the reponses so far. I was contemplating the Bosch Model: PR20EVS.

    

   -D

1. 
   MarkH | Apr 27, 2008 04:46pm | #5

   Looks pretty good, not sure variable speed is needed. Look at the PR10E. I don't like the electronic control because it's just something to break, and may not be water resistant, and you will probably want full speed on a little cutout bit anyway.

   Edited 4/27/2008 9:50 am ET by MarkH

2. 
   frammer52 | Apr 27, 2008 05:00pm | #6

   Pick up the most powerfull router, with a switch on top.

   Porter Cable is who we use.  Flush cut bits are made , without the bearings which tend to fall apart.

2. 
   fingers | Apr 29, 2008 01:22am | #7

   I believe Boss Hog has weighed in on routers used for this purpose, and if I remember correctly he said the big PC is the only one that has held up.  It's heavy though.

1. 
   BossHog | Apr 29, 2008 10:27pm | #22

   "I believe Boss Hog has weighed in on routers used for this purpose"

   Nope - Wasn't me.

   I think I said once that we use routers for trimming sheathed gables and rough openings in wall panels. But I think all I suggested was to get the solid bits, as opposed to the ones with a ball bearing.
   Bumpersticker: Keep honking. I'm reloading.

1. 
   BillBrennen | Apr 30, 2008 01:03am | #24

   Dieselpig and Boss Hog share a species similarity in their screen names, making them easy to confuse with one another.Bill

2. 
   fingers | Apr 30, 2008 07:27pm | #32

   Right! It was Dieselpig.

3. 
   rlrefalo | Apr 29, 2008 02:41am | #8

   Don't waste your time with a router, get yourself an electric chainsaw. Someone is going to call me a hack, but I think save the effort for where it matters. These are ROUGH openings. You should be able to get fine cuts with chainsaw.

   Rich

1. 
   frammer52 | Apr 29, 2008 03:58am | #9

   please tell me that was tongue in cheek, please!

1. 
   rlrefalo | Apr 29, 2008 04:09am | #10

   Sorry frammer,but I could use a router too. Just because I can doesn't mean I should. Seriously, why is a chainsaw bad? Cutting from the inside the openings are clean and chip free. What more matters here?

   Rich

1. 
   frammer52 | Apr 29, 2008 04:19am | #11

   safety!

1. 
   rlrefalo | Apr 29, 2008 04:38am | #12

   Yeah, well your right about that. Actually it's probably safer than cutting trees with 'em.

2. 
   Timuhler | Apr 29, 2008 04:43pm | #14

   Rich,

   I've tried the chainsaw route.  The router is much faster and cleaner and you end up with scraps with a decent edge that makes them more useable.

    

    

1. 
   JulianTracy | Apr 29, 2008 05:06pm | #15

   Def. don't bother with the little tiny trim-routers. You'll burn those up with 2-3 windows probably.JT

4. 
   Shoeman | Apr 29, 2008 06:31am | #13

   How about a little input

1. 
   dieselpig | Apr 29, 2008 05:20pm | #16

   Like most others I finally spent the bucks on a PC 3 1/4" HP Speedmatic.  This was, or course, after burning up a PC 690, a 1 3/4" HP Milwaukee Body-Grip, and a Bosch 2 1/4 HP D Handle (several times).

   Any of the routers listed above will do the job of hogging sheathing out of RO's.  But if you want a router that will do it day in and day out, with less than perfect router bits, and get it done as fast or faster than a circ saw, then save yourself some headaches and just buy the big boy now.

   For bits I like a 1/2" single flute flush trimming pilot panel bit.  Bearings are no good for framing stuff.  I get either Frued, Amana, or CMT bits from Router Bit World in bulk for around $12/each if I hit the sales right.  I somehow came across a '50% off my next purchase' coupon from them recently..... I bought 20 bits for about $125.  Not sure what I did to deserve that coupon, but it showed up in my email.  Felt like stealing.

   The big PC is a serious tool and can get a lot of work done fast.  Seems I've been working lots of jobs with curves lately.  Did a bell shaped dormer, a couple barrel vaults, and I've got a job coming up with two cathedral vaults.... arches spanning 24'.  The big PC makes short work of cutting up all those curved pieces out of 3/4" plywood for laminations.  I know the smaller routers couldn't have made it through some of those days where I was burning 3/4 all day making up laminated bell shaped rafters. 

   With a decent bit the Speedmatic cuts RO's out of 1/2" ply silly fast.  As fast as a circ saw, I dare say.  And the RO's just 'look' good.  I know they're just RO's, but damm if they don't make your framing look even cleaner.   I know 'looks' alone aren't enough to justify incorporating a new tool/system into framing and that's why I'm telling you that a big router like the PC holds it's own in speed as well.

   BTW.... I've seen guys do the electric chain saw thing too.  In the right hands, it too is actually pretty clean looking.  In the wrong hands it can be a disaster.  Expecially when the framing gets nicked up.  The thing I hate most though is RO's cut with a recip in unskilled hands...... and you get that 'chamfered by a beaver' look on the outside of the RO's.View Image

1. 
   Shoeman | Apr 29, 2008 05:48pm | #17

   Thanks,

   I knew you would have good input on the subject.

2. 
   frammer52 | Apr 29, 2008 06:08pm | #18

   We used that router for as long as I can remember.

   Isn't it amazing that we use the same type of router bits also.

   Like minds or something.

3. 
   Biff_Loman | Apr 29, 2008 07:31pm | #19

   Diesel,

   Could you elaborate a bit more on how you fabricate curved components?  I recently built a barrel vault inside an existing cathedral ceiling.  I used my jigsaw for it all.  The end result was just fine, but it felt slow and looked rough in the process.

   What sort of method do you use to follow a template?  Initially I tried a top-bearing bit, but that was a waste of time with my 2 1/4 hp router.  Also, the shank on the top-bearing bit was 1/4", and it broke just as I decided that I'd better switch to my jigsaw.  I just traced my template and took it from there.

   I'm thinking that you probably fasten the work on on top of your template and use your pilot bit sans bearing, as your 3 1/4 router has no problem chewing through 3/4" ply.  Have I got that right?

   This would be academic except for the fact that my Dad recently bought a 3 1/4" Hitachi plunge router, and that he'll probably never use it.

   Edited 4/29/2008 12:33 pm ET by Biff_Loman

1. 
   dieselpig | Apr 29, 2008 07:50pm | #20

   I'm thinking that you probably fasten the work on on top of your template and use your pilot bit sans bearing, as your 3 1/4 router has no problem chewing through 3/4" ply.  Have I got that right?

   That's it in a nutshell Biff.  I'll usually knock the sheets of plywood down to managable sizes on the table saw first (as long as it doesn't add any waste).  Then I'll screw my patterns down to a set of horses... sometimes doubling them up.  The piece about to be routed is then screwed down to the pattern in a handful of strategic spots and I have at it with the router.  I've gone the jigsaw route in the past and my feeling is that it's no way to make a living compared to a nice big router.  And with the router you get identical parts and pieces.

   The reason I'll stack the two patterns is that sometimes I need the clearance (above the horses) for the router bit to pass by.  In the past, when possible, I've made the initial patterns out of 2x stock as well for this same reason.

   And yes, you've got to use 1/2" shank bits.... even with 1/2" stock as opposed to 3/4.  It's as important (and probably more) than the size router you're using.  From past experience, I'd say you could get the job done with a good 2 1/4 HP router provided you were using a good sharp 1/2" bit and took your time.  I'm sure it would still be faster and cleaner than the jigsaw.  But if you're going to do a lot of them then I'd start thinking about a bigger router.  Long term it'll save you money. (not just on time but also on repairs/replacement of the router itself). View Image

1. 
   Biff_Loman | Apr 29, 2008 10:21pm | #21

   Wicked.  If I take on another project like that, I would get a larger router, I think, because Dad's new toy is 10x the tool compared to my sissy router. 

   And yeah, the hours just disappeared using the jigsaw.

   Edited 4/29/2008 3:22 pm ET by Biff_Loman

4. 
   Timuhler | Apr 30, 2008 02:00am | #26

   Please tell me you have some pictures of all that work?!!! 

    

   I'd love to see them . . . .hint hint

    

   Edit:  I saw the post about how you used the router for patterns.  Have you tried the Arcus blade? 

   I used it last summer http://picasaweb.google.com/TimothyUhler/Lot36Muirkirk02/photo#5122088782733621218 and it works really well.  Cuts a pretty tight curve and is very clean. 

   Edited 4/29/2008 7:03 pm ET by Timuhler

1. 
   dieselpig | Apr 30, 2008 05:00am | #29

   Tim, I have pictures of the bell shaped dormer somewhere on my office computer.  I'm on my laptop right now, but I'll dig around some next time I think of it and I'm on that computer.  It was a bear as it had live valleys where it tied into the 14 pitch main roof.... it lites a stair well to the third floor.

   I don't think I have any pictures of the barrel vaults... they were pretty cut and dry stuff... nothing like those crazy groin vaults you pull off.

   But this job we're starting Thursday with the really large vaults should be pretty cool.  I'm going to try to get back in the habit of having the camera around now that the winter grind is over.  This addition is going to be a beast.  About two months of framing with an option for a third month if I take on the exterior trim package.  I'm a little excited and a little intimidated at the same time.

   I've seen that blade you use before... probably on one of your photo threads now that I think about it.  I think I'd get one if I knew ahead of time that I'd be cutting patterns (or parts) out of 2x stock.  I really like using the router for making all the other parts whenever possible though.  As long as I get the first one right then I know the rest will be right.  :)  Less to worry about.View Image

5. 
   K1500 | Apr 29, 2008 10:28pm | #23

   Be leery.  I used a new-ish DeWalt and burned it up with 2 RO's.  I have not used a chain saw but I think it would work great (electric ones are fairly cheap) or use a Sawzall or Skillsaw.  My routers are too valuable to be trashing like that. 

   The big PC would probably last, but it might be a bit much to drag around when a tool you already have will do the job.  Just my opinion.

1. 
   frammer52 | Apr 30, 2008 01:16am | #25

   Something was wrong with your routerr.  I've used an old crapman router that is beat up and still didn't burn out.  1/4 bit.

   Or you are a horse and pushed the ----out of it!

    

1. 
   K1500 | Apr 30, 2008 07:10pm | #30

   Didn't push it too hard, and I suspect that something indeed was 'wrong' with the router.  I just don't feel like doing it again is all.

2. 
   dieselpig | Apr 30, 2008 04:52am | #27

   My routers are too valuable to be trashing like that. 

   Interesting perspective there.  What makes a tool valuable?  Is it the upfront cost?  Is it because it's irreplacable?  Sentimental?

   To me, the main thing that makes a tool valuable to me is that it makes me money.  I can't imagine a tool being too valuable to me to want to pull it out and make money with it.  Seems kinda like an oxymoron to me.  This, or course, assumes you are using the tool for it's intended purpose.  Hogging out plywood from an RO is a perfectly acceptable use for a properly sized router with the appropriate bit.  No trashing involved what so ever.  But to each his own.View Image

1. 
   K1500 | Apr 30, 2008 07:17pm | #31

   It's not quite like that.  Given my success rate, each RO I cut with a router cost me around $40 in router repair!  I'm not making money at that rate.  So I guess a more accurate assessment would be, more along the lines of it cost too much (wear and tear) relative to using a saw (of any kind).  Thus I do not make money when using a router to cut RO's.<!----><!----><!---->

   I don't own the monster PC, and I am sure that it would do a better job.  Really, I think that I just got soured by frying a relatively low mileage router on a few RO's.  In addition, I use my routers to perform numerous other tasks, so when I say they are 'too valuable' what I suppose I really mean is if they go down, I am out time, money, and perhaps inconvenience (I only have 3 routers) if they go TU cutting a RO I can cut with another saw.

3. 
   dcarroll3000 | Apr 30, 2008 04:54am | #28

   I appreciate everyone chiming in. I've been doing the sawzall thing and I find it slow

   and just ugly. Yes... it's a RO, but I like it to look like I want my name associated with

   it.  I'm glad I asked the question, because I was about to buy a router that was

   much too small in addition to smoking a lot of bearings by the sounds of it.

   Take care,

   -D