I just bought and installed a used “Bedslide” in my ’00 Tundra (with canopy,) so I won’t have to climb wayyy back up in there for that one ‘thing’ any longer…
I was thinking to build some type of box setup for it and perhaps a platform over.
I have seen the articles and threads on homebuilt pickup storage, but any of you specifically have a “Bedslide” or “Rollout” type pickup bed unit and done creative things with it you’d like to share?
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Replies
I've had this set up made by weather guard for years and it has served me well. I Built the center unit to protect my levels and provide storage for all those small loose items. Can't fit all my larger tools at one time though, wish they made a 12 foot unit for my 8 foot bed ;)
With all that to loose, hope your not depending on Toyota tailgate lock. What are you doing to lock the gate?
No. Other locking mechanism being used. And thats a Ford, not that I'm partial.
Any chance you could post those pix a little bigger so I could see what you've done there?Steve
I've been using a Bedslide for the last six years or so. All I've done is make some side boxes over the wheel wells.One of my main operating assumptions is that I need to carry sheet goods without having to take anything apart. I want to be able to take the tools out and have a wide open bed. So I haven't done anything with trays or layers. I knew a guy who built about a 6 inch tall pair of drawers underneath the bedslide, and the bedslide sat on top of those, but that puts stuff awfully high in the air.These pictures are from a few years ago when I used to pack it less full than I do now. My biggest problems are :The tablesaw, chopsaw, and chopsaw stand take way too much room. The nine foot festo guide has to lay on the diagonal on top of everything else.The saw horses are a pain in the arse.Need a better place for cords.Would like to get the levels off the floor.I would be interested to see what others have done as well.Steve
I've been using a Bedslide for the last six years or so. All I've done is make some side boxes over the wheel wells. How are the boxes fastened in place so they don't hit the slide? I don't have flip up side windows.. wish I did.
One of my main operating assumptions is that I need to carry sheet goods without having to take anything apart. I want to be able to take the tools out and have a wide open bed. So I haven't done anything with trays or layers. I knew a guy who built about a 6 inch tall pair of drawers underneath the bedslide, and the bedslide sat on top of those, but that puts stuff awfully high in the air. Kind of like the shelf with the slide and boxes underneath. The slide does take that 4" out... I don't like that. My buddy built his own slide and it sits in between the bearing/slide deal, but high effort adn cost.
These pictures are from a few years ago when I used to pack it less full than I do now. My biggest problems are :
The tablesaw, chopsaw, and chopsaw stand take way too much room. Hope to put chopsaw, stand and other long big garbage on the shelf. Table saw wont fit without removing the gravity rise stand :-(
The nine foot festo guide has to lay on the diagonal on top of everything else. As does my 7' level... Always last to go in.
The saw horses are a pain in the arse. I have a 4x8 utility trailer with a water tight cover. All that #### goes in there. And the table saw now too...
Need a better place for cords. I think those will go in last--on the shelf.
Would like to get the levels off the floor. Shelf.
I would be interested to see what others have done as well.
Steve Thanks for posting.
I'd say your doing pretty good. Can you get your side windows on your cap swapped out for ones that open? I would never buy a cap without the contractor side windows, makes life sooooo much nicer.
What about a whole different cap, one with opening side windows and a little taller ( that way you could get the miter saw and table saw and taller stuff in on your shelf).
Is your rack wide enough to carry 4x8 sheets? I dont have room in my van for sheet goods so Ive been carrying them on my racks. Has worked pretty good so far.
Live by the sword, die by the sword....choose your sword wisely.
I'd say your doing pretty good. Can you get your side windows on your cap swapped out for ones that open? I would never buy a cap without the contractor side windows, makes life sooooo much nicer. I might actually be able to. I'll look into that--they might not clear the rack stanchions tho.
What about a whole different cap, one with opening side windows and a little taller ( that way you could get the miter saw and table saw and taller stuff in on your shelf). If I got a whole new cap I'd probably spring for a contractor's canopy that's wayy more secure and has integrated side boxes, integrated rack I dunno.
Is your rack wide enough to carry 4x8 sheets? I dont have room in my van for sheet goods so Ive been carrying them on my racks. Has worked pretty good so far. That rack is like 5' wide and I can put 20' anything up there. I also have a 4x8 utility trailer--I usually get sheetgoods in it so I don't have to lift up.
Thanks, Pat
Looks like you've got it well in hand there. Getting the tools out of the boxes will help you get more stuff in the compartments. I've been thinking of trying to find some kind of modular box system to invest in. All the different sized boxes make efficient loading difficult.I couldn't stand to see the space to the sides of the sliding bed go to waste, so I built the side boxes. I used a standard plastic bedliner with the groves in the bottom to capture the 5/8" plywood, and scribed some bulkheads to the sides of the bed. The bulkheads actually just tuck under the bedrail and keep it from pulling away. The pictures that I posted were from my old truck. I transferred the setup to my new truck a few years ago and had to remake the side boxes to fit the new truck and left the rearmost bulkhead off this time so I could slide stuff in and out the end of the side boxes. Maybe I'll get a picture of it tomorrow, as one of my tasks for the weekend is to re-pack the truck.The main problem I can foresee with the way you've done it is that the stuff on the shelf leads to the same situation you had before you put the slide in...that is to say, you have to crawl in there to get to the stuff in the front. Especially since you don't have opening side windows.I got the wing windows on the caps, and wouldn't want to live without them, but it's a little harder to find roof racks that don't interfere with the windows. I'm not happy with my racks. Not sturdy enough.Steve
Thanks Steve, would like to see your new photos.
My weekend task was/is often 'repacking the truck' as well. Hate that and it usually got put off to Sun nite or Mon morn. Let's hope I'll have less of that with the boxes!
"I couldn't stand to see the space to the sides of the sliding bed go to waste, so I built the side boxes. I used a standard plastic bedliner with the groves in the bottom to capture the 5/8" plywood, and scribed some bulkheads to the sides of the bed. The bulkheads actually just tuck under the bedrail and keep it from pulling away. "
I think what I'll do for the time being is attach a shelf to side of my outside box, that will then pull out with the slide. I can stick levels and whatnot there.
I'll look into retrofit side flip up windows. When I got the cap the back window/hatch was replaced b/c I'd ordered 2 locks and it came with the one in the center.
Pat
Flip up side windows can be swaped over easy. Check with a cap supplier of look at the name on the glass you have now and call/look them up.
If you have the "t" handle locks on the back change them for the hood locks from Pepboys. you will need to make a bracket to mount the inside piece.
The "t" is a real easy way to pull the window open, I know I got robbed cause of it. They did'nt get to much as the truck was tight up to a wall. Still it was annoying to say the least.
With your tool boxes make up three standard sizes that fit within your new drawers and transfer over the tools. Some tools can free float, others like finish nailers need to have some nails packed with them.
Edited 10/5/2008 11:32 am ET by USAnigel
Hmmnn... the hood locks look great on the red truck and like junk in the other photos!
I'll check it out.
Thanks,
Pat
Its only 11 years old! Its all the same truck, the side locks are from HD. The rear came from pepboys, on my third set but they did get used alot. I don't like the rust either!
>>The "t" is a real easy way to pull the window open, I know I got robbed cause of it.<<Me too. When I was working in Minneapolis a few years ago. They just yanked on the t-handles till the locks bent over, and opened it right up. I lost a chop saw and a drill driver and a nice set of chisels. They could've cleaned me out entirely, but I guess they only took what they could carry. Started parking backed up to a tree after that. I live and work in the country now, and it's not really an issue here. I rarely lock my house or truck or cap. I've never seen those locks you have. I'll have to get some. The other thing you have to address is the tailgate itself. I had thing from PopLock that worked OK, but it froze up after a while. Now I have nothing. You can just pull the tailgate open even if the cap is locked. Not good. Gotta do something about that someday.Steve
On my truck the window frame overlaps the tailgate so it can't be opened with the window closed. All you can do is slow them down and often thats enought.
Pat,Well here are some pictures of the truck emptied out so you can see how I did the side boxes. They are starting to look a little worse for the wear and tear after a few years, now that I look closely at them. The first set I had in my old truck were made of 5/8" and held up better than these, which are made of 1/2".The photo called "groove" shows how the plywood traps in the grooves on the bedliner.The one labeled "bulkhead" shows how the bulkhead just slips under the rail and stays put.The photo labeled "wheel well" shows how it bridges the wheel well. If I was doing it again, I would drop the side of the box down lower over the wheel well so I wouldn't get the gap you see in the photo labeled "Gap". My previous setup had a bulkhead at the end too, as you can see in the one labeled "bedslide2". I omitted that this time around, and it's more useful. I can put bigger things in from the end rather than above and get stuff in and out easier. The plywood kind of flops around a little, but it's not a problem. Also, the first time around I fastened the whole thing to the bedrails with some aluminum strapping and screws. Decided it was unneeded this time around. There is some slop in things, but again, not a problem.Now I've got to go fill the darn thing up again.Steve
Pat,Here are some pix of it loaded up with a sort of standard load for me. Portable tools in cases go towards the front, then hand tool boxes, then table saw, then chop saw. Levels on the floor on the left, compressor and bucket of hand tools on the left. Saw horses and chop saw stand laid on top of stuff, and festo guide in last.I know it could be done much better than this, but I simply don't have the energy to mess around with it. Been doing it this way for about six years now. I almost alway need the chop saw and table saw, and that sort of precludes boxes like you've done. Fasteners, blades, caulks, lubricants, and all manner of junk winds up in the side boxes as well as foam gun, sawzall, nail guns, clamps, glue, etc.Definitely need a better method for fasteners. And would love to get the levels and the festo guide out of the way. The chop saw stand is a real PITA.Steve
I'll post some bigger pix for you, sorry didn't reply yesterday, busy with family.
Sorry couldn't figure out how to enlarge pics. But basically the tall ply box is about 7 feet long the level on the far left is a door jamb level and it is completely boxed in. All the stuff on the top is in a cavity created by some 1x on edge and is sitting on a piece of ply screwed to the di viders between each level. The shelves on the right side are resting on some angle steel anchored into the main ply deck. Sorry if that doesn't help, but I didn't want to unload the whole truck ;)
Wow! You have a lot of $hid in there!!
Yesterday I started building mine. I built three ply boxes with a solid divider in the middle and more removeable dividers so I can compartmentalize... The skinny box in the center will get fasteners in parachute bags, caulk and whatnot in, and the side boxes will get tools. The shelf will get the big items like miter saw and stand, shovels or whatever... I will not be able to put my table saw in there, up on the shelf, unless I remove the gravity rise stand... bummer. I think I will put the saw in the trailer most of the time anyway. Always hate wrastling it in there.
I put a 1" t&G ply shelf over the entire thing. The the 2 feet of it near the back can be pulled out easily but the 4' near the cab is in there for good as I had to slide it in fromone side under the canopy and bolt it back down...
I used to just have all my tools placed neatly in the bed, in zip top bags or in their original plastic cases. I worked with a guy recently who'd built himself a 'Huck' type 2 drawer unit with a full shelf like that and he just puts all his tools in the drawers, bare with no cases or whatnot. He had wayyyy more stuff in his smaller pickup than I in my bigger and wayyyy easier to get at.
Any thoughts?
I'll post pics of it full of stuff.
That's a nice setup. It must be one of the most useful cause I swear I've seen a lot of guys with ply boxes like that. I had to put almost everything in my truck since I didn't have a garage for about seven years, guess I've gotten used to it that way.
I think you are being paged
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man, that's a far cry from my 8 foot stick with a hook on the end.
Maybe I should have said 'Huck to the white courtesy phone, please'? ;)'Man who say it cannot be done should not interrupt man doing it' ~ Chinese proverb
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Now that's funny right there!
Exactly!
I was so sick of climbing back up in there ! "Oh dangit, don't have the kneepads in these pants!!"
OR fishing for things with my long level...
When i saw this bedslide on CL I was like, I'm buying that...
It's 4" off the bed though. I never liked the idea for that.
For three years I've been saying I have to do something back there.
Thought maybe I'd wash the truck this year but haven't got around to it either.
Dash needs a major cleaning and armoralled.
Airhose does quick work on the floor tho'.
be lost, cold, tired, wet, and hungry.
Yer fine until you can see the road down there after blowin' off the floor!
been there done that.
Once had an old 76 chevy pick'emup that was so bad when I replaced the bed it folded in half when removing it.
Without aluminum road signs and rubber mats on the floorboard it was 'splishsplashIwastakin'abath'.
Drove it down south where rust is considered a quarterinch rockchip somewhere on the paint
and all anyone could do is stand around and gawk at it with their jaws dropped down.
Wish I had taken a pic of the group of guys who circled it once. Funny stuff.
Yeah cars don't rust here either... Back home in WI every car my family ever had was rusty!
Built the boxes for it and started loading it.
I figure I can get at least 18 of these little 4 year old girls in there...
JK, she can ride in front.
The decision now is which boxes (that came with the tools) to throw away and which to keep. Some of them have so much storage and org. of their own. The bags I've been keep things org. nicely too and I think I'll leave stuff in any of those that fit.
Likin' it!
Did you guys get the factory installed or after market rust on your cars? We had both, never been able to decide which was best. When we moved out here to VA from WI I brought my truck. Used to see trucks the same year as mine with bodies in great condition, take a look at mine and want to start to cry.
When you pull out your bedslide, make sure your on level ground. Might not be able to push it back closed if your on a hill.
Live by the sword, die by the sword....choose your sword wisely.
"When you pull out your bedslide, make sure your on level ground. Might not be able to push it back closed if your on a hill."
LOL
I've noticed this!
You learned this the hard way? I picture carefully turning around with it out...
Oh I've read huck's entire posts and seen the article(s?) !! Great stuff!
Thanks for the heads-up, I was on a weekend vacation in Malibu (21 yr. anniversary).
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http://www.flickr.com/photos/constructamundo/sets/72157601884093512/View Image “Good work costs much more than poor imitation or factory product†– Charles GreeneCaliforniaRemodelingContractor.com
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View ImageView Image “Good work costs much more than poor imitation or factory product†– Charles GreeneCaliforniaRemodelingContractor.com
Unless you're furnishing tools for 4 guys on an unsecure job site, what's the point of hauling all that stuff around?
With just a little bit of planning you can haul what you need for one days work, and leave everything else at home.
When I downsized from my 1 ton van to my current set up(08 Tundra with 2 small weatherguard side boxes), both boxes were packed full, and I had over flow into the bed. Now a couple months later my boxes are both half empty 99% of the time.
On jobs that are more than a couple of days, and I have the space, I've started using a job box. Most days I can drive my car to work, and more than double my fuel mileage.
Free your mind, and the rest will follow.
It's not too late, it's never too late.
All true.. but if you're a one guy remodeler, you usually are those 4 guys.
That's the drag--switching out tools to do carpentry one day and drywall the next.
Anything to organize the system!
Why not a van?
I don't know too may people that own a pickup with a cap that remove the cap much- if not ever... PITA to remove... takes up space when off the truck... hard to do alone...
The only reasons I can think "pickup with cap" is a need for 4wd- which is hard to come by OEM in a van... and maybe vehicle height issues.
The "need to haul sheet goods" argument doesn't fly too far when the back of the pickup won't fit anything bigger than a 2 x 4 cuz it is jammed with other stuff.
Pickup caps aren't very secure... and if you buy them new, they are expensive ($1600 for a fiberglass cap last time I looked for the Ranger I owned at the time).
Speaking of the Ranger, that is when I learned that small trucks trade a lot of usefulness for small to zero gains in fuel efficiency compared to a basic full size pickup... note the word basic in there. The base model full size truck with the small engine delivers way more usefulness and the same MPG as a small truck.
Just wondering... the pickup with a cap looks a lot like a van... and it is used a lot like a van... so, why not just get a van?
I own a van now- done with trucks.
A small utility trailer used to haul sheet goods would be a second choice... I'm thinking the flat one that folds up- big enough for 4 x 8 stuff. Anything requiring more trailer or truck than that, I would have it delivered or rent a truck.
Why not a van? Good question, when I started out about 4 years ago I had a pu truck, rack and canopy already and thought hard, posting here about what to do--"Pickup open with closed trailer, or pickup canopy and open utility trailer" was a good thread for me.
I don't know too may people that own a pickup with a cap that remove the cap much- if not ever... PITA to remove... takes up space when off the truck... hard to do alone...
The only reasons I can think "pickup with cap" is a need for 4wd- which is hard to come by OEM in a van... and maybe vehicle height issues. I use the 4x4 pretty often--driving up steep gravel drives and not spinning, even driving the unimproved alley behind my house! 4x4 gets used when you have it.
The "need to haul sheet goods" argument doesn't fly too far when the back of the pickup won't fit anything bigger than a 2 x 4 cuz it is jammed with other stuff. I ended up going with a 4x8 open utility trailer to haul goods in. I got an expensive custom fit tarp with staves for it and it's dry in there. I leave a lot of junk in it too... Now only I wish it was a DUMP trailer.
Pickup caps aren't very secure... and if you buy them new, they are expensive ($1600 for a fiberglass cap last time I looked for the Ranger I owned at the time). No break-in yet. I got a cap without side flip ups (wish I had now) and made sure the back had 2 locks rather than one in them iddle. You can just pull open a rear window with one lock in middle... Tailgate locks.
Speaking of the Ranger, that is when I learned that small trucks trade a lot of usefulness for small to zero gains in fuel efficiency compared to a basic full size pickup... note the word basic in there. The base model full size truck with the small engine delivers way more usefulness and the same MPG as a small truck. My '00 tundra gets poorer gas mileage than some bigger diesel trucks... but it's only marginally worse than my v6 SR5 was! and much bigger truck.
Just wondering... the pickup with a cap looks a lot like a van... and it is used a lot like a van... so, why not just get a van? I got the truck because I use it for lots of other stuff too--I pull out the tools and go hunting, go to the beach and go surfing, take the dog, go fill it with firewood, go up to the mountains in the snow... It's good to have options.
I own a van now- done with trucks.
A small utility trailer used to haul sheet goods would be a second choice... I'm thinking the flat one that folds up- big enough for 4 x 8 stuff. Anything requiring more trailer or truck than that, I would have it delivered or rent a truck.
I agree that a van is a better work only vehicle. I'd get a dodge sprinter if I had the $$!
"The base model full size truck with the small engine delivers way more usefulness and the same MPG as a small truck."
I'll disagree with the mileage part. I regularly get 28 mpg on the highway with my '02 4 cyl. Ranger. The current model is rated at 21 city/26 highway- I know of no full size truck or van that does as well. A six cylinder Ranger is a different story; you're right on the money. The 4.0L is good motor but an older design and is not very fuel efficient. The '09 F-150 gets better mileage (21 mpg highway) tows more, hauls more than the six cylinder Ranger and for that matter the full size E-150 van. As for usefulness the Ranger has served me pretty well. Materials were delivered to the jobsite; basically I just had to haul my equipment. Until recently I was a trim carp employed someone else and paid my own way to the jobsite. MPG and operating costs were/are a big deal to me. My Ranger went 100,000 miles on the original tires, and is still on the original pads and shoes- I don't know of any full size truck or van that would do as well. Space and payload are nice things to have but you'll pay for it one or the other, either in initial purchase price or mpg/operating costs or both.
"The inherent vice of capitalism is the uneven division of blessings while the inherent virtue of socialism is the equal division of misery" Sir Winston Churchill
Edited 10/4/2008 11:31 am ET by jc21
I had a 2000 Ranger with a manual transmission and a 4 cylinder.... $10,300 out the door brand new... last one in the showroom about this time in 2001.
Shortbed, AC, radio (AM/FM even), rubber floor mats, standard cab, split bench seat, no bed topper.
Best I got out of it was 21 on a highway run of 400 miles.
Mixed city/highway, I could count on 17 to 19 no matter how I drove it.
Could have gotten way more utility from a stripper standard issue full size truck in this case.
My main truck has kind of morphed into its present setup. Started with a heavy duty steel rack that I welded up. Made in sections so it can be removed and stored "flat" leaning up against a building.
Hauled a lot of tube, hot rolled and other steel. Now its wood.
Made it with openings for side boxes. Full length (96"), mounted to rack. Side boxes encroach on box less than bumpouts for rear wheels.
Started with tools covered with 3/4" ply sitting on 2X6's. Compound saws got big enough to make storage difficult. Bolted 1-1/8" angle to side boxes and ran 2X1 tube cross ways to give me more tool room.
Welded up a frame of angle that fit in bed on bed liner. It has another 3/4" ply bottom. Slides on liner real well with a little armor all. Tailgate also has liner and is sprayed with armor all. This was a test to see if it was worth popping for a roll out unit.
Still using it.
So I can load up the uppermost layer with 4X8 goods and the side boxes hold it all in. The upper layer has a hinged flap that folds down before the tailgate is closed. Tailgate fitted with a lock. Local truck shop would like to sell me an electric lock that mounts inside the tailgate but a custom bent steel flap locks over the tailgate release latch. Even have a seperate lock that fits on top of the bed/tailgate.
I would attach a photo but it is all dark outside--besides I've posted pics before (wonder where those files are).
Only thing I would modify is some steel tube on the side of the rack with an extension inside. Could pull it out and have the tailgate covered (usually a work bench). Keeps the light rain off the tools when on smaller jobs. Also might shorten up the "slide-out" a little and attach adjustable steel legs to support the slide-out when working on it. Try to keep most things in labelled 5 gal buckets and made a hook on an 8' conduit to move things around never a level).
Had a folding sawhorse swiped off of the top (unsecured) layer but thats it. Might be the label from the NRA as to what is protecting the unit. If I take another truck I'm so used to having my stuff that I feel a little naked. The side boxes have removable tool boxes
organized into groups of tools, pouches (custom modified), PAT tools, nailguns, etc. I can slip in SS cross bars, cover the upper with a super heavy tarp (actually used as a plywood conveyer belt) that has been waterproofed. It gets pulled tight with 1" wide strap to loops screwed to the side boxes but doesn't get used much.
Now to look for those pic. Tyr