Replies

1. 
   dustinf | Sep 23, 2005 02:38am | #1

   I've done a lot of work at Nevillewood.  Owner of a large kitchen company I used to work for lives there.  I figured he had a monopoly.

   Looks good.

1. 
   JeffBuck | Sep 23, 2005 02:49am | #5

   it's funny ...

   I've worked there a coupla times over the last coupla years ... for different GC's and Kitchen Dealers ...

   all the GC's I've worked around ... "built most of Nevillewood"!

   there's like 8 guys that each built at least 75% ....

    

   each.

   keeps growing though ... maybe they're all right!

   Jeff    Buck Construction

    Artistry In Carpentry

        Pittsburgh Pa

1. 
   DanT | Sep 23, 2005 04:04am | #6

   Nice stuff!  I appreciate the tips too!  Show more when and if possible.  DanT

2. 
   JeffBuck | Sep 23, 2005 02:41am | #2

   and more ...

   View Image

    

   Jeff

       Buck Construction

    Artistry In Carpentry

        Pittsburgh Pa

   
   

   ---

   Edited 9/22/2005 7:41 pm ET by JeffBuck

   
1. 
   JeffBuck | Sep 23, 2005 02:44am | #3

   I hate endgrain.

   Here's my trick for hiding the crappy end of stock cab base ...

   when the only real detail is the shoe. Gotta keep a clean/square corner for the shoe ... I cut a "base thick" filler strip out of left over filler stock ... pin nail/glue it on ... and let the 1/4 inch base die into it ... flush.

   Then ... wrap the whole deal with the shoe.View Image

    

   Jeff

       Buck Construction

    Artistry In Carpentry

        Pittsburgh Pa

   Edited 9/22/2005 7:44 pm ET by JeffBuck

1. 
   JeffBuck | Sep 23, 2005 02:46am | #4

   one more trick ...

   lotsa times I gotta take a measurement floating in space ... for an open cab space .. for a tight layout.

    

   I stick my utility knife into the drywall ... and hook the blade tip onto the blade.

   View Image

   Jeff

       Buck Construction

    Artistry In Carpentry

        Pittsburgh Pa

   Edited 9/22/2005 7:47 pm ET by JeffBuck

1. 
   Gunner | Sep 23, 2005 04:47am | #8

   Nice trick, give me more. You could make a fast buck if you email that to tricks of the trade.

    

    

    

   What is a cynic? A man who knows the price of everything and the value of nothing. Oscar Wilde./

2. 
   JackWoody | Sep 25, 2005 07:24pm | #20

   nice trick!! been doin this work for nigh on 30 years and never thought of that. Will be trying that tomorrow in the closet I have to lay out. Thank-you,

   Jack

1. 
   donk123 | Sep 26, 2005 04:31am | #21

   Jeff -

   Nice work. Do you build any of your countertops or is it installation only?

   Also, I've got a kitchen where cabinets were kept down from the cieling about 3 inches, now crown is to be added between cabs and cieling (tile on firring strips). Any ideas on how to fasten the crown without taking down the uppers and putting nailers in?

   Don K.

2. 
   JeffBuck | Sep 26, 2005 04:47am | #22

   this particular brand of cabinet doesn't have alot of meat above the doors ... so as habit I add a strip of 3/4 ply by what ever ... usually 1 1/2 inch ... on top of the face frames as a nailing backer.

   I catch the cab face frames by a fat 8th and nail into the side of the ply.

   I'd suggest the same for yours ... with 3 inchs or so to fill ... I might be tempted to go with 2x stock ... when there's room .. I staple down thru the top of the ply and into the face frame ...

   in your case .. existing cabs .. I'd probably try to either glue and shhot the 2x or screw thru the top "inner edge" of the cab's to secure the backer ... then attach as per the norm.

   when my 23g pin nailer .. I like to pre-assemble the crown as much as possible ... glue and pin ... then let it set a coupla 15 minutes or so ... then tack into place as a unit.

   Kinda stinks when ya miss something and gotta trim an 8th off a whole 3 or 4 section of crown ... but usually worth it in the end.

   Jeff    Buck Construction

    Artistry In Carpentry

        Pittsburgh Pa

3. 
   donk123 | Sep 26, 2005 05:16am | #23

   Jeff-

   Thanks for the idea. Don't know why I didn't think of that. I kept on thinking of how I can get down from the top (an obvious impossibility without removing cabinets), and never turned upside down and thought about coming up from the inside bottom.

   Don 

2. 
   maverick | Sep 23, 2005 04:23am | #7

   I really dont care for the shoe treatment.

   I prefer to scribe the cabinets to the floor. A little more work but well worth it.

2. 
   JohnT8 | Sep 23, 2005 05:43pm | #9

   You're not quite standing in the same spot, but close enough.

   Those are nice kitchens.  Not a bunch of hoohaw, just a very functional space.   Those double ovens are nice.  I'd rather have a 6 burner cooktop and double oven than a big, ugly commercial looking stove.jt8

   "Striving for excellence motivates you; striving for perfection is demoralizing."  --Harriet Braiker

1. 
   joewood | Sep 23, 2005 06:11pm | #10

   John, could you tell us how, nd what program you used to make that swf ?

   Was it Win Movie Maker ? very nice.

1. 
   JohnT8 | Sep 23, 2005 06:54pm | #11

   Macromedia Flash.  I'm not even hitting the tip of the iceburg of the stuff it can do.  Many of the webpage animations use the program.

   If you're looking for the program, try your local college bookstore.  They often have the education version (which is much cheaper), which might be a hair stripped down, but will still do everything you need it to.  In my case, I got 50% off because they had a new version coming out.

    jt8

   "Striving for excellence motivates you; striving for perfection is demoralizing."  --Harriet Braiker

1. 
   zendo | Sep 23, 2005 08:55pm | #12

   John,

   there are places on the internet where the lights are out, and you can get the new version really cheap.

   -zen

2. 
   zendo | Sep 23, 2005 08:59pm | #13

   Buck,

   How do I charge for prefab (Yorktown) cab installs?

   I dont have a clue whats fair.  What do you think the average time is to hang a kitchen?

   -zen

    

    

3. 
   JeffBuck | Sep 24, 2005 05:51pm | #17

   I figure my hourly rate ...

   then figure each box/part/piece to be an hour.

   add a bit for applicances and big stuff like a counter top that I have to bring a buddy in for a day or two to handle.

   unpacking / staging / small fillers / knob's and door / drawer adjusting fit into that "per box" price. Lotsa guys do a "per linear ft" price ... but I have no idea how that adds up. Never broke it down that way.

   can't guess at "average" ... nothing's ever the same.

   Jeff    Buck Construction

    Artistry In Carpentry

        Pittsburgh Pa

4. 
   zendo | Sep 25, 2005 02:43pm | #19

   Thanks Jeff,

   That will get me in the ballpark.

   -zen

5. 
   JeffBuck | Sep 24, 2005 05:47pm | #16

   Wow .. too cool!

   Cath even got excited seeing another one of my work pictures!

    

   Jeff    Buck Construction

    Artistry In Carpentry

        Pittsburgh Pa

6. 
   JohnT8 | Sep 26, 2005 05:45pm | #24

   Do you have a logo?

    jt8

   "Most married couples, even though they love each other very much in theory, tend to view each other in practice as large teeming flaw colonies, the result being that they get on each other's nerves and regularly erupt into vicious emotional shouting matches over such issues as toaster settings."  -- Dave Barry

3. 
   Bluegillman | Sep 24, 2005 06:41am | #14

   Can u tell me some about the wiring to the lighting under the cabinets? I'm about to rip out our old kitchen and want to put up what I had built. Which do u do first the wiring, wallboard then cabinets? Or after the cabinets are up?

1. 
   Mitremike | Sep 24, 2005 09:31am | #15

   Jeffs probably all tucked in now but I can help--With open stud bays lay out your kitchen close but doesn't have to be exact,tack wire ends to the studs above the bottom of your uppers. (reason to follow) couple of inches is enough.rock, tape, prime, ready for cabinets,When hanging the uppers, with your level line across the bottoms , Channel out the dw down to the line and bore a hole in the under hollow of the uppers--usually 5/8 for 1 wire and 3/4 for two. Hang cabinet with top against the wall and bottom out some--feed the wire thru and slide cab against the wall, secure with screws and move on---Course ya asked Jeff this question so he might tell you I am crazy--don't listen to him---I haven't heard the voices in almost three weeks. <G>
   Mike" I reject your reality and substitute my own"
   Adam Savage---Mythbusters

2. 
   JeffBuck | Sep 24, 2005 05:55pm | #18

   Mike said it.

   run the wires before drywall. Poke them out about the bottom of the cabs.

   do the layout ... mark your bottom level line ... cut/hammer/rip thru a 1/4 or so above that lower level line ... I like to make the hole a little bigger so they fold back into the wall easier.

   then .. drill the hole thru the rear bottom rail ... stick and pull.

   if you are working one handed ... build a 2x box support to rest the cab on while U slide it into place.

   size it to either set on the floor for uppers first ... on the bottom cab boxes .. or on the counter top.

    

   Jeff    Buck Construction

    Artistry In Carpentry

        Pittsburgh Pa