Hi. I am a new member.
I want information of how to control honey bees that are invading my sofitts. it has warmed up a bit here in SW Pa. and I see a lot of them swarming?
We have yet to install the plastic material that covers the rafter ends. The bees are going after the pink insulation that is in the cieling. Do they eat that? I’d hate eat the honey if they do!!!
My SO say’s it’s OK, and they will die when it gets cold again, but I am of the persuasion that they will stay there for the winter and maybe get inside. I am allergic to bee bites.
The house is real old. 100 plus yrs. and the new work that we PAID for was not finished. The man went bankrupt in the middle of our remodeling.
I am from Denmark and my english is not the best, so, bear with me.
I have watched here for many months and enjoy the jokes and friendship that is here.
shoulder I call a pest control man? or wait till a colder time? i would like to not kill them.
Replies
Hello, FINZIL, and welcome...
first, are you certain that it is honeybees? given the time of year, they probably are, but often any stinging insect is identified as a 'bee'...
honeybees exist in colonies and pass the winter in an active state (altho at a reduced level of activity) - they cluster together on the comb and maintain a minimum temperature by muscular activity - this activity produces by-products that are disposed of by the bees taking short 'cleansing flights' during warm periods during the winter - I believe this is what you are observing currently - -
this means there is an established colony in your house, likely having 'swarmed' (the honeybees strategy for continued existance) in last summer...
to eradicate is not a simple process - there is no way to lure the colony outside, and removing pieces of the house to get at them is undesirable for obvious reasons -
their numbers dwindle in the winter and the colony is at its weakest in early spring - completely sealing the entrance/exit hole in late February is the easiest fix - the relatively few bees that remain will die shortly and honey stores and such are at a minimum at that time - downside is that they will desparately seek another exit and sometimes find it...either into the house or another exit - -
if the entrance/exit is a well defined hole (or can be made well defined with some screen or caulk, you can employ a 'screen trap' - take a small piece of plywood, bore a 1" or so hole in it, and staple a small piece of window screen to it - the screen should be formed to make a cone about 2" high with the tip of the cone having a 3/8" hole (visualize a volcano) - attach this assemblage over the entrance/exit - the bees will exit the cone, but not be able to find their way back in - over the course of a few weeks this will deplete the colony - when activity ceases, remove the trap and seal the hole -
regards...
I know it's obvious but...The cone should be pointed outward, not into the soffit.
The person you offend today, may have been your best friend tomorrow
Welcome....as DDOUD said are they really 'honey bees'?
My experiance as a PCO (pest cntrol operator) wih honey bees was..we called a bee keeper..he would take the larvae or queen and relocate the hive. This may be an option. It seems odd that (to me) a bunch of bees would choose this location to do 'bee stuff'. I lived in Pa, and never saw what you describe.
Can you close up the access? maybe some cloth like filter fabric? Is the soffit totally open?
If it helps, honey bee's rarely sting unless ya smack them. maybe just leave them alone till the soffiting can be installed.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
Boy, am I glad I ran across this thread !!
All your worries are over now, I'm an expert !
:)
Just ask anybody here, they'll tell you.
Well, bees in your soffit, bats in your belfry, what's the difference, right ? Like I said, just ask anyone, they'll tell you.
In my learned opinion, if you leave them alone, they'll leave you alone.
And no matter what you do, do not do what the buzzing voices tell you.
...
To be serious, though...
About 26 years ago, or so, I was in the Mennonite Disaster Service. I was stationed to the Lummi Indian reservation in Washington state.
They had a fishing village where the infant mortality rate was like 2 out of 3. The area flooded every year. Etc.
We brought in trailers and made a "park" for them on higher ground. Then we tore down the shacks.
Out of 7 shacks, 3 of them had walls completely filled with honeybees.
It is an incredible sight to tear down a wall, and see the entire wall full of honeycomb. Every stud bay entirely full. I have often wondered what all that honey weighed.
I would suggest you call the beekeeper right away. And/or get that soffit screen up pronto or sooner.
The person you offend today, may have been your best friend tomorrow
I thank you all. A call to an apiariest is in order. lord, I hope I have named it properly. Are the bees toxic in any way? My pooch seems to like snapping them from thier flight paths and consuming them when they do manage a concourse into the house proper.
added information, the beinning of the end has now begun, I see my SO on a ladder and cursing wildly. What joy.
Poltise? what is a poltise? off to the google thing..TIA.
>> what is a poltise? off to the google thing..Easier to find if you spell it poultice.
DavidDoud's first response was excellent. The only thing he missed is this -- do something NOW before the nest gets any bigger because although you can easily remove the bees you'll probably never get the honey and comb out of the wall (unless you open the wall). When hot weather arrives and there are no bees to maintain proper hive temperature the wax and honey will melt; it could seep into the walls and stain them, but it will almost certainly draw ants. Millions and millions of ants.Honey bees can easily survive winter so long as they are protected from the weather and have adequate ventilation."Poltice" ? Perhaps you mean "poultice". It's simply a paste mixture, such as baking soda and water mixed to the consistency of catsup... great stuff to slather on a bee sting -- prevents swelling and itching.Beekeepers can indeed lure a colony out of its hive by using a queen -- but unless their own queen is dead or dying they won't abandon the hive completely.
Best thing to do is get the soffit finished, pdq
the bees will not be any bother once its finished...
And I thank you Mr. Hube. Our builder has gotton away. My SO has not the ability , nor gumption to persevere this dilemma. Hence my concern. wonderful beasts they are..stunning beauty, and gravity defying areonautics to boot.
Might these not be the the bubbling bees? I see many in a cluster around a hive of sorts. it resembles a clustr of dish soap in dirty water.
She reported that it is a common thing for the death knell, for the avians to recourse thier travails and return to the spawn. I don't think I want to be a bee if that is what is in store for the hapless little buggers.
I must stabize a ladder as we speak. Fare waell and Thank you so much!
How big is this "cluster of dish soap in dirty water" ?Are you sure these aren't wasps ???If wasps, they can sting again and again. Get yer SO down off that ladder immediately !(S)he shouldn't accrue too many stings, no matter what they are, or (s)he may go into shock regardless of allergy.If you can actually see the "nest", the best bet, since you do not have the skill to close the place up, is to get some spray wasp and hornet killer. Yes, it works on bees too...That stuff should spray a very long distance. You should be able to stand on the ground and spray up into the sofitt to kill them.I don't like the idea of killing them, either. But you don't really know what they are. And it will be a while before you can get a beekeeper out there to have a look. The longer you let them go, the more damage there will be, and the firther in they will go.Get the spray, and spray them now, before it goes too far.
The person you offend today, may have been your best friend tomorrow
I be thinkin a can o' foam spray..kill the bastidges. Spheramid Enterprises Architectural WoodworksI'll just do it>hey check your email....from moi..important.
Edited 12/30/2004 5:53 pm ET by SPHERE
I'll check.
The person you offend today, may have been your best friend tomorrow
"first, do no harm..."
unless your SO has a plan, there is little to recommend getting up on a ladder and stirring these creatures up....
if you have a pump up garden sprayer, you can put 1-2 gallons of water in it, along with 1/2 cup of dish detergent and stand at a distance and knock these guys out of the air - just as lethal as the commercial spray...spray it on the cluster, they will drop 'like flies' -
I can't believe wasps could still be active after the temperatures you have experienced -
"there's enough for everyone"
Here is a link from Texas A&M University on bees and an identification chart.
Identification of Bees and Wasps
View Image 5/8 inch
View Image 1 1/16 inch
Europeanhoney bee
Africanizedhoney bee
Bumble bee
View Image 13/16 inch
View Image 7/8 inch
Carpenter bee
Mud dauber
View Image 13/16 inch
View Image 5/8 inch
Paper wasp
Yellow jacket
http://agnews.tamu.edu/bees/home.htm
It would be wise to first identify what it is that you are dealing with. Evidently it's not the Africanized 'killer' bee as they don't seem to be aggressive.
I would suggest getting them out as soon as possible to avoid further problems as others have described.
"I will never surrender or retreat. " Col. Wm. B. Travis, The Alamo, Feb. 1835
Hello, FINZIL, welcome to break time.
Are they honey bees or carpenter bees (look sorta like bumble bees)? I've seen carpenter bees burrow into garage joists. Went right through the somewhat damp wood as if it was foam.
Honey bees are probably around 1/2 inch long, whereas bumble and carpenter bees are 3/4-1 inch long.
From a bug webpage:
Despite their similar appearance, the nesting habits of the two types of bees are quite different. Bumble bees usually nest in the ground whereas carpenter bees tunnel into wood to lay their eggs. Bare, unpainted or weathered softwoods are preferred, especially redwood, cedar, cypress and pine. Painted or pressure-treated wood is much less susceptible to attack. Common nesting sites include eaves, window trim, facia boards, siding, wooden shakes, decks and outdoor furniture.
Wasp/hornet spray should work on them, but I don't know whether this would be a lot of work to track them all down. You might have to call in a pest specialist.
Honey bees would be easier to deal with. Honey bees are relatively docile (compared to wasps/hornets and some other bees). The queen is the key to a honey bee hive. If a beekeeper (geared up) can locate the queen, the rest of the hive should stay pretty close. Although I don't know how cold weather would effect them.
Your going to think this is nuts................. I had a case of yellow jackets in one of my walls. There was a small hole where the siding had pulled away at the bottom , This where they were getting in.
I got my trusty sear shop vac. Hooked it up. Set the hose near the hole where they were getting in. Give the wall a good wack with my fist. Out comes the yellow jackets in swarm. Turn on the vac. Its really funny to watch. They never bother you because they think the vac is the enemy. Only thing missing was the belch at the end.
I felt like the trip to the can killed most of them. But you can open the lid and spray some hornet stuff.
I once had a friend who was a meth cook. A tree fell on his roof knocking a big hole in it. He asked me to fix it for him so I went out to take a look in his attic. Attached to an undamaged part of the ceiling interior was a massive nest (about four feet across) of red wasps. Terrible insects with a sting like a radioactive rattlesnake. I told him we needed to get rid of the wasps before I did anything. He said he had just the thing. I guess at some point in the manufacture of illegal methamphetamine there is an extremely poisionous gas given off which must be collected in a pressure vessel via a pump. I don't know what it's called but as prevalent as meth is these days I'm sure you can find a cook somewhere. He took the bottle of waste gas, set it in the attic, cracked the valve and ran like a kerosene cat in hell with gasoline drawers on. We returned three days later and nothing lived. No mice, spiders, cockroaches, wasps, nothing. If you can't find a meth cook, try a beekeeper. <smile>
Honey bees are extremely benificial...but, this is an odd time of year to see activity...you could call your county extension agent, they'll turn you on to beekeepers, or exterminators<G> Don't worry, we can fix that later!
really to ALL...
re: activity - warm weather = cleansing flights - get out there and unload so they can get back in and work the muscles and keep the colony warm...
bees in houses are no boon to a beekeeper - to claim the colony, you have to go in after them - there are so many easier ways to increase - I wouldn't even bother one - just call the exterminators, if you must...
"there's enough for everyone"
FINZIL
One of the points you made was that you are allergic to bees/wasps. Do you have an Epipen (sp) which you can use to inject yourself until you get to the emergency? This is ,I believe adrenaline, but it stops or reduces the allergic reaction. My wife is allergic and went to have tests which identified which of the critters to which she was most allergic. We have a kit "at the ready" all the time. Call in the exterminators if you are allergic.
Cheers
Mac
Right about this warm weather making those bees feel like they'd better get busy<G>Round here, beekeepers fall all over themselves trying to get "house" bees...and they make it look easy when they get them...LOLI'd hope that the exterminator would be the last resort. Don't worry, we can fix that later!
Round here, beekeepers fall all over themselves trying to get "house" bees...and they make it look easy when they get them...LOL
hey, if you can get ahold of the queen, it is easy - - if you've ever torn into a stud space full of 50K bees and comb running every which way trying to find the queen...well, it can get ugly...
now, in May, the colonies swarm and usually the swarm will cluster on a branch or post for a day or two while scouts find a suitable stud space to move into - - those are easy pickin's, as they tend to be very docile (loaded up on honey and no hive to defend) and the queen will be in the middle of the cluster - put a hive body with a frame of drawn comb down on a sheet, give the branch a sharp rap, 30K bees fall to the sheet and que up and march into the hive - 15 minutes later screen the hive entrance, put the hive on the truck, and drive off to the amazement of the terrified person who placed the frantic phone call....don't even need a veil...
"there's enough for everyone"
Wow! I saw a guy do something likethat once..me? I run for the spray can..LOL.seriously, as a bug man in past life, we called a bee guy for those situ's and never had a problem. I just never stood around an watched.I wonder if the OP has actually identified the buggers?David, I have mosquitoes in my upstairs bath!! what the Farenheite is going on? It's 60*...the maple is budding out.Shouldnt complain I guess..saving wood.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
I'll just do it>
"If you can't find a meth cook, try a beekeeper."
Asking around on Cooks Talk might yield results...
Seal up the soffit and install a tiny one way door so they can't get back in.
The awful thing is that beauty is mysterious as well as terrible. God and the devil are fighting there, and the battlefield is the heart of man.
- Fyodor Dostoyevski