Replies

1. 
   calvin | Jan 10, 2013 05:48pm | #1

   Grant

   All the tongues and grooves are the problem.

   Wood moves (tho engineered wood moves minimally) say a scant 16th, how many joints will there be?

   I've made wood countertops, but the boards were joined up into a top and then placed on the cabinets.  No joints.

   If you do this, I'd coat the bottoms and all edges for that matter-even the ends.  Seal the heck out of the raw cutout around the sink.

   best of luck.

2. 
   oldhand | Jan 10, 2013 07:25pm | #2

   yep, it's the movement...

   Calvin pretty much nailed it, the cracks are the issue.

   Sealing all sides before assembly might not be any better than a bartop [epoxy] finish. Much of a topcoat on the t& g might make assembly hard. I have built some wood countertops but have opted out of several opportunities in recent years. It's a perilous endeavor.

   But pessimism aside, if it is for your own use give it a shot. Worst case it isn't going to explode in a fireball and best case you may be happy with it.....

1. 
   DanH | Jan 10, 2013 08:26pm | #3

   Yeah, the joints is not something you want in a food/water area.  Though if it were coated with bar topping that would probably do the trick.

3. 
   Grantwriter | Jan 10, 2013 08:41pm | #4

   Just What I Needed to Know

   Thanks much, all three of you. I have a box of this flooring left over from a couple of rooms I put it in, and this seemed like a good idea for the kitchen. I believe I'll look into butcher block options now. 

1. 
   calvin | Jan 10, 2013 11:08pm | #5

   Grant

   Follow the directions on the premade butcherblock tops.

   They will move too, and you don't want to have it split open (not likely, but I've seen it happen).  You want to anchor it to the cabs, but not trap it.

   Again, treat the cutout at the sink both for splitting and potential water penetration.  Seal the cutout real good.

   The ones I have installed come with a proprietary finish-which was quality.  If you were to want to overcoat it with something else, make sure it's compatible with the factory finish.

1. 
   Grantwriter | Jan 11, 2013 11:38am | #7

   Premade Butcherblock

   Cavin,

   What brand did you use? I've been looking at various options on line, and my first choice is mesquite. Of course, I've blown the kitchen re-model budget long before now, so today I'm getting more serious about what I will actually buy. 

   Greg

1. 
   calvin | Jan 11, 2013 12:12pm | #9

   Greg.........

   http://www.butcherblock.com/

   This being a Mi. company and we being in NW Oh., always used theirs period.  First one..........good gawd, long time ago-It was just called Bally.  Last time in contact-purchased some of their finish for a renew job on a counter from 25 yrs ago.............or os.

   Sold through lumberyards and maybe online.  I've only used the maple-never knew you could find mesquite.

   Yow, now I see they have ash, walnut, a ecowood(?) of some sort, red oak.........several.

   Read and understand their directions HERE

4. 
   Mongo | Jan 11, 2013 11:08am | #6

   some folks have...

   ...ripped the tongues and grooves off the flooring strips, then edge glued the strips together. That way you get a somewhat monolithic top surface versus one with grooves.

   Bellawood...if they'll pay Bob Vila a sack of money to promote it, why, it must be good stuff!

1. 
   Grantwriter | Jan 11, 2013 11:45am | #8

   And I might also...

   That's a good idea. I've waited too long to return the leftover pieces, so I think I'll re-cover a couple of work benches with them. 

   Also, I like your tagline- I happen to be two of those kinds of people myself.