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Jd;
Just finished drywalling a groined ceiling with eliptical as well as radial arches with 1/4 inch
flex drywall. What worked well for me was to wet both sides of drywall with a garden sprayer and let set for about 15 minutes before bending. I got the sheetrock WET to get it to bend well.
Broke a sheet dry before useing water and recomend water for nearly any radius.
Have fun brisketbean
Replies
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Jd;
Just finished drywalling a groined ceiling with eliptical as well as radial arches with 1/4 inch
flex drywall. What worked well for me was to wet both sides of drywall with a garden sprayer and let set for about 15 minutes before bending. I got the sheetrock WET to get it to bend well.
Broke a sheet dry before useing water and recomend water for nearly any radius.
Have fun brisketbean
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I hear you brother,
That is exactly what happened to me. I'm using a spray bottle and soaking the paper and I found it to work. I was under major pressure as the guy paying me is a body man / body shop owner who is not ignorant about tools and has ideas about fixing things and "some" aren't half bad. He told me at 6 p.m. est. that i should watch, since he was coming in on Sat. he would probably have those curves done. That drywall cost $10.80 a 4 X 8 sheet and I don't need him f---ing up my carefully layed out curves.
I followed your groin ceiling and even thought of it tonight as I was bending in 2 dimensions ans it sounded like 3 for you. How the hell, other than carefully did you do that?
Hats off to you Brisketbean.
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JD;
The groined cieling was a 16 foot radius ceiling
30 feet long intersected by 3 eliptical arches with a major axis of 12 feet and 10 inches and a minor of about 93 inches witch made a pretty radical turn on the end of the elipse but the drywall was only bent to a single plane and cut on the eliptical hips where the planes joined.
When I cut out my elipses I made forms to bend the drywall on after it was wet and it worked real well, you could lay a sheet of the wet drywall on the form and watch as gravity made most of the bend for you. We bent the drywall and then let it virtualy dry out before applying to
the framing.
The only one who isnt happy about the drywalled groined ceiling is the plaster man who thought he was the only one who could frame a groined vault
and wouldnt give a firm price for the job because he thought that we had no options. The ceiling is far more symetric than the plaster framed ceiling
could ever be because wood is easier to work with than metal and lath.
I think there has been some confusion as to me trying to drywall an oval shaped domed cieling
that will be finished with Z brick over metal lath
that we also framed out of wood. The plaster man
is unhappy about this ceiling also, but he got the whole exterior of this 10000 square foot house
to plaster and still says " its a sad day when carpenters are doing the plaster mans work"
As to trying to bend drywall into compound radius"s, my mamma had an ugly child but not a stupid one.
brisketbean
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Everytime I hear about this project my hair starts to hurt. I'm pretty sure I can picture your project and I'm sure I could figure a way, I just wouldn't want anyone watching.
I'm now wetting both sides and left a piece over sawhorse wetted over night to start forming it.
I want to do inside pieces first so I have access to the back for wetting purpose as necessary.
THanks for your input and keep in coming.
*My experience with using water to bend drywall is this: In South Carolina, on advice from several profesionals, we laid the drywall over two sawhorses, sponged on water liberally, and, within minutes, watched the drywall sag. Had no trouble doing about a 5' radius. Remember, this was the Southeast, with high humidity.Last year, in central northern California, during the (very dry) summer, I tried the same thing. Wet the drywall, first with a sponge, then with a hose. After an hour or so, the drywall seemed as stiff as before. I decided--probably wrongly--that the extreme dryness here had caused some sort of chemical change, making the drywall permanently stiff. I guess, based on what I'm seeing here, that I should have given it overnight. (Instead, I used 1/8" plywood; worked pretty well, actually, and sure is easier to pick up; but cost about twice as much.)I should add that the 1/8" plywood was used in a non-permitted, free-standing, artsy studio, and was covered with heavily textured plaster. Don't think it would be recommended for average installation.
*USG's handbook has specific recommendations for wetting - like to wet compression side, use a garden sprayer, how much water per sheet (for instance, 45 ounces per sheet for 1/2"), stack with wet sides facing each other, cover stack with plastic, wait an hour, etc.
*Been there seen the movie got the tee shirt.We are quiet lucky here in the UK if price is not a problem we use a product called glasroc by a company called Gyproc comes in 8x4 sheets and starts at 6mm thick it bends real tight to cuves and has a finsh like plaster.Ive tried the water methord too but I found I could not bend it tight enough, good luck with your ceiling.
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O.K. I think I got it, but it cost me an expensive sheet of "hi-flex" 1/4" drywall. I'm new to the curve corner concept but I've now installed 4, 30" radius curves I need to drywall. I suggested it to a client to make some room dividing half walls look better in a new office and he ran with it. The real Genesis of the curves goes back to my supplier and his carrying of a bendable metal track. I tend to be a frustrated architech wanna be (with good design sense).
We took a large portion of warehouse and converted it into office space. I have on earlier projects convinced him (depending on the space and needs) that open is better for him. I've created a monster and he wants open everywhere.
Anyway, I now am installing half walls (40" high) in the new office space and I decided curved would be fun. NOT! At least at first. I have using flexible track created 30" radius curves and the free end of these walls. Seems mild enough until you try and wrap it in drywall. Busted the first sheet in 2 places. This was dry and I've since taken to wetting it with a misting spray bottle. This did work well, but My God, you would think a 1/4" hi-flex drywall could do a 30" radius in its sleep.
Anyway, got a piece on and feel that I should do inside corners first as the back side is the one that need the most moisture.
No real question, just maybe fishing for those with radius experience.