Replies

1. 
   The_Homewright | Jan 30, 2002 09:48pm | #1

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   Jeff- If it's getting painted, you could run a series of saw kerfs on the backside as deep as you can without cutting into the profile then fill the voids and sand out. Steaming would be the best but might not make that radius without snapping. Another way would be to get several lengths of the chair rail and rip them on the tablesaw into thin strips. Set up a plywood form matching the radius and sandwich them back together again during glue-up and clamping. Of course this will entail some intricate measuring and set up to fully immitate the chair rail. You might check with local suppliers to see if they carry that profile of trim in the rubber based material I've seen used on curves where paint is the finish. It's pretty slick stuff. These as far as I know, are pretty much your options. Good luck.

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   Stan_Foster | Jan 31, 2002 01:34am | #2

   *Jeff: I use this technique when I have to make my own bending handrail, bend some base, or in your case, bend some chair rail. You need to obtain two pieces of paint grade chair rail to make one that will bend. Make sure they are not finger jointed, bit of solid wood. Label one of these A, the other B.The first step is to make a shim that is as wide as your chair rail and that is the thickness of your tablesaws saw kerf. This will be used to make your individual rips out of A and B. Figure what width of laminate will bend at your desired radius. I am estimating that 1/4 inch will work fine.Set the saw to rip off 1/4 inch, and take chair rail A and rip 1/4 inch off the back. Keep this as this is your first laminate for your bending chair rail.Place the shim against the fence, and take chair rail B and rip off the back. Discard this thin rip.Remove the shim, and rip chair rail B again. This 1/4 inch rip is now your second laminate of your bending rail.Place the shim back to the fence, and take chair rail A back through, and discard this thin rip.Remove the shim, and take Chair rail A through again ripping off another 1/4 inch rip. This is your third laminate for you bending rail.Again, replace the shim, take chair rail B back through, discard the thin rip, remove the shim, and run chair rail B through again thus creating the fourth laminate. Keep repeating until done.See the sequential logic to this? It does work great and you will end up with a pile of laminates that when stacked together will match the original solid chair rail profile.The only thing that you may need to change is the 1/4 inch dimension of your bending rail rips. Maybe 3/16 or whatever works better.Good luck.

1. 
   GACC_DAllas | Jan 31, 2002 04:00am | #3

   *Jeff,Why are you bending chair rail? Is there a wainscotting going up the rake of the stairs?They make a flex mould in just about any profile for this that is quick and easy. It paints great and stains good too.Ed.

1. 
   piffin_ | Jan 31, 2002 08:00am | #4

   *Come on guys - nobody uses Oak to be painted. Obviously they want oal finished clear or stained.I would reglue the trinm in strips or glue up raw strips and mill it in shape. This piece will be worth at least ten times as much as a straight piece. The radius is very tight which is why I don't think it will steam bend that much.Another thought is to use ash which has a similar grain, hardness and appearance but will steam easier.

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   Jeff_Egner | Feb 01, 2002 09:49pm | #5

   *Thanks to all. I will talk with them again. It is for a paint job, I have been all over town trying to find the same profile in the bendable material, let alone poplar for the remaining 98% of the straight pieces I will need. This is the profile they like. I hate to add this but they found it at HD.I like the gluing method and would do it if it were my house or if I knew they would be willing to take the added expense.

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   George_Ivins | Feb 03, 2002 10:12pm | #6

   *Jeff, Have you tried RESINART? The make flex mould in coils of 12' and carry most profiles including rabbited base cap in 3 diff styles. It's a little stiff ouy of the box but left in the sun or near a heater it becomes as limp as a wet noodle. I use my heat gun to coax it when nesc. Nail it with an 18 ga brad as the 15 ga finish nails tend to crack. They even make "grained" shoe and cove which takes stain quite well. The graind shoe is a life saver for doing double bull nose starting treads. You rareley get one that uses the whole 12' and is a lot easier than using the radius /straight stick method. Best of luck whichever you choose. GEO