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I’m applying it to the outside of a circular stair wall. I’ve tried kerfing, I’ve tried soaking, I’ve tried slowly clamping it while soaking it. No experience or knowledge of steaming but is that the only answer? The molding seams to roll. Please help!!
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< Obsolete Link > Stan Foster "Curved crown molding repair ideas?" 2/25/02 7:50pm Try this method explained here to rip the shoe into 1/8-3/16" pcs, bending and laminating them together.
*Calvin: That method I was describing works for wider and more complex shapes. Honestly, for base shoe, I would just take one length and rip it down the middle, keeping the full half toward the wallside. I would then rip a second piece down the middle allowing for the saw kerf, and keeping the other full half for the side away from the wall. Then just glue and brad them in place. If the radius is too small for two laminates to make it, then you may have to go to more laminates, which I would then use the method that you are referring to.
*the easiest thing to do would be to go to Home Depot for your shoe moulding. It's all pre-bent.
*Why not make it on the bandsaw and shaper?Ed.
*why not go to a floor supply house and get flexible quarter round
*Have you tried "RESIN ART"? They make flex moulding in clear/grained 12' long. You can get shoe,cove, base cap{plain and rabbeted}, chair rail and backer. Just a thought--GEO--
*Yeah stan, having done this recently w/oak shoe for a couple10-12" radius..........s I had the best luck with 4 pcs, or maybe it was 3, but 2pcs snapped trying to bend that tight. If he were bending around one of those 1st step risers, I'd think he's best off buying some prebent shoe from the stair store. Specially if he isn't equiped to deal with the narrow rips, the glue, the registration and all that stuff. What do they sell that full return radius shoe for anyway?
*Calvin: I will just mill my trim around a riser. I will cut a half circle out of the material I need that is the radius of the riser plus the trim thickness. Then I will profile that with a bearing guided bit. Afterwords, I just cut the trim out sawing on the riser face line. I end up with a nice half circle of trim that doesnt have all those splices in it.
*Yessir Stan, a nice detail.
*Dustin:Steaming is easier than it seems. I have made a few things that needed bending by putting the stock in a length of pipe, closing off one end, and butting the boiling kettle at the other end. Soaking in boiling (boiled) water also works.Good LuckAndy
*OK, Now I'm a little confused. The original post was for an outside radius wall of a curved stair, and now we're talking about a bullnose riser?????? Help a fellow stair man out! If he is indeed looking for the "bullnose" shoe kit, I'll be more than glad to ship him one FREE! The ones I use are laminated so there is no end/side grain to contend with. If interested email [email protected]
*George, thanks, but bending is the problem. I may try the steaming. I've actually seen the method (maybe it was FHB a few months back, I'll have to check) described above. If you say it will work, I'll purchase, stain, urethane, yada yada yada for a fourth time. Any other ideas, keep 'em coming
*Dustin,We've done the steam thing and I wasn't impressed by the bang you got for your buck.Making curved shoe from a solid or glued up block cut on the bandsaw and then moulded with a shaper or router is still my first choice.The bendable resin moulds that you can buy at the lumber yard is the easiest choice.So, what are you gonna do?Ed.
*Try using a different profile here. I used 3/4" x 5/16" round edge oak trim in this application. Much easier to bend and looked fine.
Dustin, recently read mesaages on bending..I am curious to know the outcome since tomorrow I have to bend a 1x10 riser at the bottom of a stair. Not sure how I will do it yet
I have heard of putting fabric softener in the boiling water...