Replies

1. 
   FastEddie1 | Jul 26, 2002 05:51am | #1

   There was an article in FHB some time back about bu8ilding a curved deck with Trex or similar, and the author noted that he could not get it to bend on the flat, but bending the other way was easy.  He let it sit in the sun for a while to get hot, then propped one end up on the edge of the deck or air conditioner or something handy, and let it sag, then carefully coaxed it into position.  He tried to bend it for a handrail, but had to rip it into thin strips and laminate them back together.

2. 
   studman | Jul 27, 2002 03:03am | #2

   The trex adds in FHB show all sorts of curves. Maybe you could contact them and ask how they did it.

1. 
   xMikeSmith | Jul 27, 2002 04:25am | #4

   the Trex adds in the magazine are scale models.. and the decking is actually about 1/4"  wide....

   however.. Trex will bend a LOT easier than wood... and in most cases you can get the radius you want by ripping it in half and rounding the edges over to match the existing..

   you will have to support it more often than you do the full width pieces..

   as to slip factor.. Trex is very non-skid but be sure to gap it according to the instructions.. because you have to get it to drain since it will not absorb any water.. if it doesn't drain, it could promote algae or moss which will be slippery..

   Mike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

1. 
   Edgar76b | Jul 27, 2002 08:03am | #6

   Hey thanks Mike .This is going to be a very small project. It won't be holding much weight at once maybe 2 to 3 people and some chairs, maybe. just a jumping off /entry point.  I thought it might work if I set a few post.  I don't know what the term is. They remind me of a mail box post . 1 vertical post 1 Horizontal/perpendicular.and a 45' brace.

   I would set these in the ground. Fan them out, Around the radius, on one end., of the oval pool. Then, Connect the posts to each other with 2 x 6 underneath the Stairs would go to an existing deck. I hope to bend the trex on the top. I think i will rip it down like you said, Someone else sugested that too.

   Trex is 12"o.c. right.

    If anyone understands what i am trying to do and, has any other framing ideas. I'm Trying to avoid taking up ground space. i would rather use less posts. 6x 6 if i must . Probably to many posts my way for 12"o.c. when fanned out. . Maybe some crazy blocking will work?

1. 
   xMikeSmith | Jul 27, 2002 01:37pm | #7

   edgar..with  2x6 you can probably keep your posts at about 6' max.... keep the 2x6 at 8" on the tight radius and you can go to 16" if the trex is full width..

   rip the trex to thinner dimensions on the tight radius an d gradually widen out to full width stock as you move out to the greater circumferences....

   draw up your plan to scale and it'll all work out  great....trex is easy to machine... both ripping and routing..

   the surface SS screws are what we use..Mike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

1. 
   Edgar76b | Jul 27, 2002 05:23pm | #9

   Thanks Mike excellent Idea it will look like a ripple from a stone, on the water . thanks guys

3. 
   alias | Jul 27, 2002 03:30am | #3

   edgar - i needed to trim out a tight circular stairs and end up using trex i ripped down(band saw) i've used a planer also , the bandsaw has less waste. anyhow cut it down to a light 1/2" two layers of that than capped with a nose & cove made from trex also same with shoe. so look for the 3/4 inch version and double that up with those new fangled screws trap ease screws. trex is very bending-friendly, i'm under the impression you'll be bending mainly for the rim- joist's inside and/or outside so the decking will by inlarge cover any minor inconsistency's . as you probably know trex has no structual integrity. so your frame will be c.c.a and pulling it tight with pipe clamps, band clamps etc,. to pull it to any shape (3/4 '") with in reason. cheers bear

   Edited 7/26/2002 8:31:06 PM ET by the bear

   
   

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   Edited 7/26/2002 8:43:00 PM ET by the bear

1. 
   Edgar76b | Jul 27, 2002 07:32am | #5

   Thanks Bear, I was wondering about those screws. They are the ones with gromet on top that cuts in to the surface. right? They don't have them here yet. Are they worth it?

   Edited 7/27/2002 1:04:35 AM ET by Edgar76b

1. 
   alias | Jul 27, 2002 04:01pm | #8

   there expensive, and not very subtle. but that dimple is pretty unsitely also so it is a reasonable trade off. for a less obtrusive look i counterbore , than bung it up with a small dab of P-L premium, the bung is of course trex. but as mike said stainless steel screws are better. all that stuff is recycled plastic feed through an extruder, and if you look at it it does have a top(concave) and a bottom. cheers bear

   Edited 7/27/2002 9:04:25 AM ET by the bear