Best 2 1/8″ Hole Saw or Forstner
DCCarpenter
| Posted in Tools for Home Building on
All of a sudden the door install end of things has picked up some and I have several door slabs to machine. I use a clamp-on Blu-Mol jig and usually use a 2 1/8″ forstner bit or a 2 1/8″ hole saw for my bore. Anyone have a recommendation for a fast cutting brand for either type of bit? My current Forstner needs to be sharpened and my hole saws are shot.
I’m going to be doing 20 or so 1 3/4″ Mahogany doors as well as several solid pine doors so I was hoping for something with a bit more speed to it than the bits from the hardware store that idle along.
Replies
All of a sudden the door install end of things has picked up some and I have several door slabs to machine. I use a clamp-on Blu-Mol jig and usually use a 2 1/8" forstner bit or a 2 1/8" hole saw for my bore. Anyone have a recommendation for a fast cutting brand for either type of bit? My current Forstner needs to be sharpened and my hole saws are shot.
I'm going to be doing 20 or so 1 3/4" Mahogany doors as well as several solid pine doors so I was hoping for something with a bit more speed to it than the bits from the hardware store that idle along.
I like the ones designed for doors instead of plumbing, too. Sorry, no specific brands, but I know what you're going for:A good multispur -- usually the lock-boring style doesn't have a self-feeding tip -- will pay for itself very quickly when compared to even the best hole saw.AitchKay
the HD brand bulk hole saws aren't bad... the orange ones... and when they get dull ... if you have a ballzz they will replace them if you return em... i was behind a guy who was returning one... said it quit cutting... they let him return it... i asked him about it ... he said he returned em all the time when they got dullp
Most of the saw blade type bind when cutting due to buildup of saw dust.
Drill a 3/16 hole on the inside edge of the 2 1/8 hole to allow the sawdust to drop through. This makes cutting much quicker and cooler running.
Now that's a great tip. I never would have thought of it, but I'm going to give it a try the next time I hang a new door.
BTW, if it really works, maybe you should send it in to FHB Tips & Techniques.
That tip has already been published.
Another vote for the lennox.
When I was hanging doors for a living, I ditched/sold my forstner jig (which dulled quickly and blew out the backside).
I switched to a hole saw and mounted a brad point bit as a pilot. I drilled halfway through one side of the door and then drilled from the other side. Both sides of the door had clean holes and the plug was not buried in the hole saw.
I have a 2speed Bosch 1/2" drill to run the hole saw, it sings through a door. I find my 3/8" drills too slow and underpowered for hole saws.
I used a forstner bit to drill the latch. I thought it made a cleaner hole.
Interesting.
I use a hole saw from both sides as well but never thought of using a bradpoint for the arbor.
For the latch I just use a spade.
Must be time for a beer soon. Give me a buzz.
On a hill by the harbour
Yeah the brad point stops the wander and puts the hole right where its needed, even in production mode.
Never drop the hole saw though, the brad point bit will snap,
especially in production mode.
Time to round up the usual suspects
I'll give you a buzz.
You know what drives me crazy about hole saws?
On a hill by the harbour
That was just for fun.
What does drive me nuts is watching people trying to drill absolutley straight. If you don't use a bit of ocillation a hole saw just binds and burns. That type of bit needs to have some room and a minimal bit of chip clearance. I walked into the shop one day and bozo was actually trying to use one in the drill press............... lot of smoke. i suppose it would work with a fresh cutter and maybe a half hour for a 2n1/8" hole.
Drill through till you are less than 1/2 then finish the hole from fresh marks from the other side.
Will email cell # in case you lost it. I can't find a # for Ron right now so if you have one let me know. I will let the renovator know when we fix a day. I suppose we should just start ax murder 5 (?) thread anyway.
RF
On a hill by the harbour
Lennox...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints"
Brand new Lennox is your best bet. It's what I use.
Buy this...
http://www.templaco.com/html/product.asp?id=74
Depends on budget. And what fits best with your jig, and how much chutzppa your drill motor has.
For a hole saw, Lennox is about tops in my book. For a forstner TYPE, I like the Milwaukee self feed. I can't see using a true forstner w/out a drill press.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
PROUD MEMBER OF THE " I ROCKED WITH REZ" CLUB
I tried the Milwaukee self feed , it's performance in construction lumber was fantastic but in white oak and mahogany it wasn't nearly as good. I'll try and find a lenox hole saw at a local store and give it a shot, I think their jig saw blades and sawzall blades are great.As far as budget, pretty much willing to spend up to $50 dollars or so for the right tool, with the quantity of doors I have an extra trip for more bits or an extra five minutes a door will really add up.The forstner bit I have isn't a true one but rather one that is kind of a cross between the Milwaukee bit and a true forstner, it is the type that is included in the most of the pricey all metal lock boring jigs.
I hear the Lennox single tooth are the bee's knees. I have not tried one yet, nor do I know if it's avail. in that size.
Using the coarse lead screw in the self feed usually does well, and I tweak the edges with an auger bit file to keep em sharp, and cutting well. But you are right, green wood is much easier to drill. The Hole saw will be better in the long run.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
PROUD MEMBER OF THE " I ROCKED WITH REZ" CLUB
I've been using one of these:http://www.popularmechanics.com/home_journal/tools/1274081.htmlThe last place I saw them was Sears. I put a Lennox bi-metal hole saw on the arbor. I think Vermont American made the thing originally.http://www.tvwsolar.com
We'll have a kid
Or maybe we'll rent one
He's got to be straight
We don't want a bent one
He'll drink his baby brew
From a big brass cup
Someday he may be president
If things loosen up
Fast, but they leave an ugly wound. pretty much limited to joists and plates..
Good to know, mebbe why I don't have one. You can't always get good and fast and clean in the same cutter.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
PROUD MEMBER OF THE " I ROCKED WITH REZ" CLUB
Another vote for Lenox hole saws - available at Lowes here.
I have not tried the single tooth saws, however, I hear they are fast but ragged - maybe not what you want for this project.
JimNever underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
Sears was having a 10% off sale tonight and my local one has a good clearance rack, I picked up a fast change hole saw arbor and a 2 1/8" bi metal hole saw both made in the USA , Sears Professional brand for 6 dollars. Also picked up a 25 piece made in the USA titanium coated bi set for 9.99. In addition to that they had a beading bit for doing inset beaded face frames, I have been using scratch stock, hand planes, etc.. to make all my beading but the bit will be handing for the next big beaded job I have. We'll see how the hole saw does on the mahogany this week, I think it should be a good combo.
Wow, great score.
I might have to peruse our Sears...we only have a small one, in a mall that is largely vacant.
I know scratch stocks all too well.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
PROUD MEMBER OF THE " I ROCKED WITH REZ" CLUB