i was building jams for 6 sets of 8ft french doors today… and i couldn’t find the 5/8 collar for my router and i didn’t want to freehand for the hinges (4 per door).. so as much as i hate it i headed to HD figured i’d get a new 1/2″ bit while i was at it…
spotted this really simple hinge template from porter cable adjusts for 2.5 hinges up to 6″ hinges… and me think’n i have some 4.5 and some 5″ hinges to use soon… and this puppy comes with a bearing guild and 1/2″ bit…. i’d give it a shot…
now i’d already marked out my hinges so that sped it up… but… i did 8 hinge cuts in all of 15 min max and they were dead on needing no clean up…
it’s a black plastic jig… with some locating pins and 2 pins/nails you tap in to hold it… and looking at it you might think $25 is kinda high…. but in my limited use today… i think it already paid for itself…
just my tool fix for the day…. oh and hd didn’t even have the 5/8 collar i needed anyway…
p
Replies
i liked that it came with the two nails needed to hold it in place.
"Never pick a fight with an old man. If he can't beat you he will just kill you." Steinbeck
Is this it? http://www.deltaportercable.com/Products/AccessoriesDetail.aspx?ProductID=16391#
What was your method for matching up the mortices, door to jamb? What method is suggested in PC's owner's guide/manual?
Edited 8/10/2008 10:37 am by Hudson Valley Carpenter
yes that is exactly it.... it has hinge centerline markings on it... so if you just transfer the centerline from frame to door you are spot on... i had already marked hinge location top & bottom of each hinge (4" hinges)... the paperwork that comes with it gives several options... one noted is the one i usually use anyway is a storypole because i have a large supply of doors already mortised for hinges that i need to transfer their location to a new jam... I also have a pretty good inventory of hinges most of which fall into the 4" 4.5" and 5" inch range so i'll reroute/remortis the doors to fit my hinges... which usually means going from 3.5" to 4" an operation i'll do first then transfer that to the jamb... i have several of the whole door 3 & 4 hinge template set ups... but with my hinge locations change'n from door to door... I think this new (to me) tool will be a faster set-up...
p
Thanks for the complete explanation.
I prefer the story pole method too, because it's basically foolproof. I learned that the slow, hard way, back in my yoot/youth.
i have several of the whole door 3 & 4 hinge template set ups... but with my hinge locations change'n from door to door... I think this new (to me) tool will be a faster set-up...
That was going to be my next question. I have one of them, not the best, which I never use. I was thinking about buying the PC whole door template but considering how seldom I'd use it and the time spent setting it up, I'll be pleased to have this simple jig in my router bit box.
Again, thanks for sharing your experience. This is the kind of topic that makes this board really click for me.
Peter
Edited 8/10/2008 1:03 pm by Hudson Valley Carpenter
If anyone is interested, I have several (maybe 3-4) of the template sections from a Porter Cable whole door templating set that I do not need.Seems like maybe they could be used individually somehow.I'd sell em for $30 each + shipping?I had bought a whole set on Ebay and found out afterwards that it was missing these special stepped threaded knobs that cost frickin $40 each!Since then, I picked up another complete PC 4 template setup, so I do not need the extra set.Someone want the whole setup with the rails and 3 sections (maybe 4) - I'd sell it for $65 + shipping. Figured it'd be pretty easy to try and make your own, just never got around to it... I can email a pic showing what it is missing as I have the complete set for reference.Julian
313-283-5908
"What was your method for matching up the mortices, door to jamb?"I measure from head jamb to top edge of upper hinge and mark that spot minus 1/8" on the door. Then note the distance from edge of existing door to back edge of hinge leaf (assuming the old door fits right) and mark that and set my jig. There are little alignment tabs on the jig (one for 1 3/8", one for 1 3/4" door thickness) and usually that alignment coincides with the measured position of the hinge on the old door, but sometimes not, so I check it.For middle and bottom hinges I measure from top edge of top hinge to top edge of each of the other two so as to minimize measurement errors. Since the actual cut is 1/16" inside the boundaries of the jig, you have to be very accurate in placement. In fact, my accuracy got better after I misplaced my jig and had to buy another and then found the first one again when I got to the jobsite. Now I set the first jig and leave it in place so I can measure distance exactly from one edge of it to same edge of the second jig for middle and bottom hinges. No error estimating the 1/16" offset of the bit.BruceT
I've used that jig for quite a while now.
The included HSS router bit will dull very soon and start burning its way through the wood, but You can replace it with a carbide one easily enough.
One warning though, do not try to rout the borders first and then clean out the center. The blade will try to wander out the back side of the template on the vertical cut and will actually bend the template, leaving a curved cut. If you work successive passes from outside-in the result is very good every time.
thanks for the tip... you are routing blind with this thing ie... very hard to see the cut as it's being made.... so for me it was just alot of easy slow passes...
p
"...so for me it was just a lot of easy slow passes..."That's the best way.
BruceT
What about squaring up the corners?
At one time I used to make my own hinge jigs out of lexan.
The great thing about what you got though is that it's adjustable, and for $25, that ain't bad at all.
I've toyed through the years with getting the PC full set up hinge template but just never have. Most of my doors are PH anymore and when I do cut my own, it's never enough doors to justify laying down the bucks for one. I like cutting my own though, and once in a while will do it without a router just to keep my chops. This sounds like it would do very well. Thanks!
"What about squaring up the corners?"
Porter Cable has a corner chisel, p/n 42234 that works well enough. Grizzly and Woodworkers Supply have their own versions which I've not tried.
http://www.tools-plus.com/porter-cable-42234.htmlGiving money and power to government is like giving whiskey and car keys to teenage boys. P. J. O'Rourke
I have a corner chisel, but I never think to use it until I have done about three doors using my 3/4" that is always in my pouch
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
I picked up one of those some years back.
Well worth the $!
mine is a Bosch but I think it runs closer to ninety bucks. Definitely worth the investment.
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
I bought that kit 5 years ago when I built my house and had to mortice a bunch of doors. Worth every penny. Only thing I did different was build my own jig out of mdf that straddles the door and I can clamp it on with a Quickgrip clamp without driving nails into all my doors.
John
J.R. Lazaro Builders, Inc.
Indianapolis, In.