Replies

1. 
   DaveRicheson | Jan 28, 2004 01:12pm | #1

   I have used regular construction adhesive and dw adhesive for the same thing. I also use the case hardened nails that you use for drop ceiling wall mold to hold the dw while the glue sets. (I can never remember the name for those damn nails). Another thing that helps is placing the glue, then the dw, and pull the dw back off the wall before re-placing it and adding a few nails.That gives me a chance to look at the how much glue  to dw contact I really have, add more if needed, and introduces enough air to make it dry a little faster. The nails can stay in if you dimple them like you would a regular dw nail.

   Dave

1. 
   Sphere | Jan 28, 2004 06:41pm | #3

   P-K nails?..ex wiff was a civil eng. Surveyors always pinned in Concrete..with P-K's..set the plub bob to em. Big head 1" long?

   Go Stab yourself Ya Putz! Ya think I Parked here?

2. 
   Zano | Jan 28, 2004 04:09pm | #2

   Besides drywall glue you can use a setting compound or all purpose joint compound - just blob it on the cement and than "pat" the board on and use concrete nails around the edge here and there

3. 
   JeffBuck | Jan 29, 2004 04:46am | #4

   I've heard of using regular mud ...

   but we always just const adhesive the hell outta the wall ... then stick it on ...

   a coupla well placed ... trying to hit the mortar joints ... nails holds her till the glue sets.

   I like to have a selection of cut masonry nails ... fluted masonry nails ...

   and short roofing nails.

   Usually I reach for the roofers first. Most times they'll go right in ... ot at least "grab" enough for a bit of bite.

   For the masonry nails ... I smash them down tight before the glue sets ...

   the roofers are best left sticking out ... then flattened after the glue sets.

   Then ... finish as usual.

   Course one time I was left on a site with no apropriate nails ... but did have a wood floor and some framing stuff ... so I just set 3 2x's running the length of the drywall ... and cross braced with diagonals to the floor.... just like bracing a form wall.

   Jeff

   Buck Construction   Pittsburgh,PA

        Artistry in Carpentry                

4. 
   tkh | Jan 29, 2004 05:10am | #5

   I don't know where you live, if in a humid locale, you may experience moisture wicking into the drywall from the block. If the block is above grade, temperture difference could cause condensation that the board might absorb. I'm not saying it will, just a possibility you may want to consider.

   A contented man enjoys the scenery of a detour

   
   

   ---

   Edited 1/28/2004 9:11:38 PM ET by TKH

5. 
   Mooney | Jan 29, 2004 06:51am | #6

   Zano and Jeff are good . But more ;

   Ive hung quite a bit of wall papered drywall in motels . Rednecks stay in motels , not hotels . :)

   Glue the wall with const adhesive . Slap the sheet up on the wall and pull it back off  30 seconds to one minute depending on humidity and temperature . Slap it right back up with out moving it out of line . It needs to slap the wall in the same place the second time. Its there . No nails .

   Tim Mooney

1. 
   Davo304 | Jan 29, 2004 07:20am | #7

   Thank you all for your replies...I definately don't want to go to the trouble of bracing the wall like a concrete form wall...I could do this...but it would be a royal pain. Looking for something "down & dirty."  The idea of using construction adhesive or just using joint compound did cross my mind, but  never thought about using cut nails...cause I never ever use them. Always use my Hilti powder actuated stud gun when nailing into concrete, but cannot use this gun on drywall or it would blow it all apart. Using cut nails sounds good.

   I like the idea about using roofing nails.

   Now, another question...which brand of construction adhesive is the best for this application? I normally use Tight Bond brand adhesive, but recently used PL brand. This brand seemed to work just fine...I don't use liquid nails much anymore...not really that happy with its qualities. Am I being anal...I mean, does it really matter which brand? As for joint compound being used as adhesive, again, which type should I use?....the 45 minute setting type? or regular premixed joint compound?

   As for moisture wicking onto the drywall from the block wall...this is definately not an issue in this particular set-up. Wall is an interior wall, not a "cold" wall. Wall has been painted with a cement based paint and is in real good shape.

   Thanks.

   Davo

1. 
   ccal | Jan 29, 2004 08:59am | #8

   Ive used several different brands and they all seem to work. I dont use the sherwin williams adhesive anymore because it didnt seem to flow out as well, but i could have gotten a bad couple of tubes. I wouldnt use joint compound in your case, it just doesnt seem to me that it would get much of a grip on a painted block wall.  Ive never used it that way though, so I could be wrong. I look at it this way, which one would be easier to scrape off of a concrete floor, globs of joint compound or globs of construction adhesive?. The j.c. usually pops up pretty easy for me.

1. 
   Davo304 | Jan 29, 2004 09:08am | #9

   You're right. Dried joint compound is easy to pop off a concrete floor....soooo I think construction adhesive is the better way to go using that logic.

   Unless someone tells me different, I think I'll use the PL Premium brand of construction adhesive.

   Davo

1. 
   Zano | Jan 29, 2004 04:22pm | #10

   With the paint, go with the adhesive!  On clean CMU's the mud is great!

2. 
   JeffBuck | Feb 01, 2004 05:59am | #12

   for years I swore by Liquid Nails ...

   one day the lumber yard sent me PL ....

   it's been PL ever since.

   JeffBuck Construction   Pittsburgh,PA

        Artistry in Carpentry                

2. 
   rasconc | Jan 29, 2004 07:18pm | #11

   Have you seen the new quick grab construction advesive, I can not remember the brand but it was a little expensive.  I think about $5 a can.  I think they had it in caulking tube also.  They were advertising it over nailing, showing a despondent hammer because it was not needed any more.