Best approach to reconnect a leaky in-line water filter (tape and dope)?
I have one of those $30 GE in-line water filters.
One of it’s compression fittings is leaking…probably too fast for calcification to seal it. (about a drip per second, not slowing)
It is leaking around the plastic threads on the filter, around the white teflon tape.
Because the filter’s housing (and it’s 3/4″ female threads) are plastic I want to try and get it fixed with just one attempt to avoid messing up the plastic threads.
Once I get the Sharkbyte compression fitting loose, I was going to use both some new, more thickly wound teflon tape but this time I want to also use some ‘T plus 2′ Rectorseal’ pipe thread sealant that I just found in the store.
1. Should I remove the existing teflon tape (if it’s hard to get off)? Should I tape over it?
2. Can the Rectorseal be used along with the tape? If so, does the tape go on first, or the dope, followed by new tape? I’ve seen both methods suggested.
I’m thinking the tape will be needed after working with the plastic threads too many times but I’m not sure if I should use the tape first or after the Rectorseal.
Thanks.
Replies
Is the ride worth the fare?
I would be strongly tempted to just pitch the thing and buy another one.
That said, sometimes making a fresh cut of the plastic hose where it meets the compression fitting can help.
If it were not a water filter, I might think about some really goey sealer type gunk.
Good luck.
Yes but I can't do that
I knew I should have posted a picture.
As you can see, the plastic end of the equation is built into the filter.
I think I've decided to carefully remove the sharkbyte adapter from the filter, strip off the old Tape, apply the Dope, then more Tape.
I was going to buy a back-up filter at Home Depot but they didn't have a single GE filter in stock.
DanH........ It's a typical 3/4" Sharkbyte compression adapter.I have one on each side of the Filter. I've worked with them before. They are not easy to remove unless you have a good angle of attack to use the removal tool while pulling it off the copper pipe.
I would disconnect the union that should have been installed on one side of the filter, then just unscrew the fitting.
"I was going to buy a back-up filter at Home Depot but they didn't have a single GE filter in stock."
Amazon is your friend.
Good luck.
At this point I'm still undecided about whether to put the tape on first or the dope.
I suspect the plastic female threads on the filter probably are not in the best of condition. I probably didn't use enough tape with the initial install.
Not sure which order of application would offer the best re-seal once it's reconnected.
Dope
3 to 4 wraps of tfe tape
more dope
Have never had a leak with that combo, even for old pitted fittings.
sounds good
junkhound wrote:
Dope
3 to 4 wraps of tfe tape
more dope
Have never had a leak with that combo, even for old pitted fittings.
junkhound...
That soundslike a good plan.
Thanks
If what you have is a male brass pipe fitting threaded into the female port on the plastic filter body, likely the original problem was that you simply did not tighten the fitting tight enough.
Tape and dope. 3 layers
Blue, vibration resistant dope, tape, dope again. 3 Layers = 0 leaks even if not cometely tight fit.
By the way, I hope you understand that the filter must be secured to the wall with a stiff metal bracket of some sort. SharkBite connectors are not intended to withstand the sort of stress you'd put on them while unscrewing a recalcitant filter cannister.
teflon tape only
Fassbinder,
No manufacturer of plastic water filter heads recommends the use of liquid pipe joint compounds. The added lubrication can cause over tightening and the connector could bottom out in the socket and damage the tapping. There is also a risk that some liquid compounds are not chemically compatible with certain plastic housings. We have successfully installed hundreds of plastic head / body cannister filters using 4 - 5 wraps of 3/4" teflon tape.
We use brass alloy male x compression water service fittings ( google Ford ) to connect whole house filters- these fittings, typically used underground,
have a more severe male thread taper, accurately cut threads, a deep socket, a chemical resistant rubber compression gasket, and, a special nut / clamp combo that cinches the fitting tightly to the copper piping - these clamps can also hold a bond wire if continuity is broken by a plastic filter head.
Anchoring the filter via pipe hangers, a support bracket, or threaded rod & clamps, is essential as someone has pointed out. Please also note that filter cannisters are much easier to remove when the pressure is released via a downstream faucet.