After reading all the posts for my “cordless circular saw” question I have decided to get a corded saw. What is the best corded circular saw? I will be using it to cut composite decking. I tried using my recip saw but the cut looks like !@#$. I used to have a Skilsaw that my dad bought in 1972. It lasted 25 years and then the bearings started squawking so I got rid of it. Does anyone still “build ’em like they used to”?
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Yeah skil 77.
Tom
Tommy's right, Skil 77 is the ultimate classic. Skil invented the powered hand saw back in 1924. It's a worm drive saw, which means that it's somewhat longer and the motor shaft runs parallel to the cut. There are also saws that are a bit simpler mechanically because the blade is right on the shaft of the motor. They're called sidewinders, probably because the motor sticks out the side.
The first step to narrowing down your decision is to try both kinds to see which you like. Think about balance and visibility of the line you're cutting. Also think about the kinds of places you'll be using it. Will the motor be more likely to be in the way sticking out the side or out the back?
-- J.S.
Skil 77 is the best, but it's very heavy. Porter Cable is the next best.
The skil 77 is my favorite, too. I really prefer a wormdrive for cutting sheet goods (plywood, OSB, etc) and being right handed and used to the 77 I like the blade on the left. I have a Porter Cable sidewinder with a left hand blade so it's easy to switch back and forth. But despite the weight, I'll take a worm drive for framing most of the time. A Sidewinder is handy to have around though, for overhead work or somewhere where the weight can be an issue.
The big box stores occasionally run loss-leaders on the skils and I'm used to paying $130 to $140. Some people would bitch even if they were hung with a new rope.
Porter Cable. I have a Rockwell that I purchased from a retired carpenter years ago. It is all aluminum, very powerful, and accurate. I keep it well maintained ( key to longevity on any saw). A few months back I found another one at a contractors going out of business sale. While I was repairing it I found that Porter Cable parts fit it. I now have 2 of these Rockwells and hope they last me as long as I need em. If I do purchase a new unit it will be Porter Cable.
Dana
As a slight tangent here, what is the preferred maintenance schedule for a worm-drive saw? I have a couple of Skillsaws, a Milwaukee, and a couple of Porter Cable worm trim saws and haven't been exactly diligent on changing the oil, etc. When should the oil be changed, and what other items require regular maintenance (I trust you only change the brushes when they wear out...)
I have a 77 that's 20 years old that leaked oil from day one so I bought some of the skil gear oil and kept it topped off for a long time. I let an employee use it for about 5 years and he didn't do diddly to it. I have it back now, used it today as a matter of fact and it works fine.
My maintenance of these saws is keeping them fairly clean, replace bad cords, a little WD 40 on the guard pivot occasionally and SHARP BLADES. When and if they burn out, I toss 'em because fixing them relative to buying new is almost a wash. (Ungreen, I know, but reality......) Some people would bitch even if they were hung with a new rope.
The newest 77 now wears the Bosch brand (model 1677M); there's also a Bosch 1656 sidewinder with an 8.25" blade and 60º bevel capacity that appeals to "deckers" and roofers. In any case, it's all in the blade: IMHO, you can't go far wrong with a Freud TK103..
Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright
Unionville, Ontario
They all seem to be pretty good anymore. i got 2 PC's and a Dewalt. Buddy has a Makita (good one) I had a Skil wormdrive and got rid of it cause it was too heavy and I gettn too old..
> (I trust you only change the brushes when they wear out...)
You should change the brushes a little before they wear out, and change the brush springs if they're anything short of superb. Trying to get a few dozen more hours out of old brushes can cost you a very expensive commutator job, or on the newer cheaper stuff, cost you junking the saw and buying another. Look at the sparks flying from the brushes when the motor is a few weeks old, and make a mental note. It'll look like that for most of its useful life, but when you see the sparks getting bigger, it's time for a brush swap.
-- J.S.
picked up the Milwaukee last year, no problems thus far. I like the location of the grip, and the bevel and depth of cut adjustments are very easy and accurate. Comfortable weight too.
I think there was a comparison article on this very topic a few issues back in FHB??
I bought a skil saw around 1982 or so. not sure of the number
but it cost about 150$'s. the box and the instructions
plainly stated all ball bearing construction.
several years later I was trying to fix a problem and
had reason to disassemble the saw and in particular I
got into the gear box that sits between the motor and
shaft that carries the saw blade. essentially a gear on the
inside end and the threaded part that receives the
retaining bolt on the outside end. the bearing that the shaft
turns in was a bronze bushing ! how can that be if it is
all ball bearing construction. my own opinion then and
now is false advertising if not downright fraud. I don't
think too highly of the saw anyway and I am darn sure I will
never do business with SKIL again no matter who owns it.
Steve