I’m currently building an exterior bar that is built on a raised deck with a generous shed roof. So, while the bar may get a little incidental moisture and wind driven rain, it will never be exposed to a direct sunlight or the elements in general for extended periods of time. My neighbor generously donated about 100 board feet of rough sawn 6/4 red oak that he had used for scaffold planks. The wood has since been surface planed, and cut to width. I plan on biscuiting the planks up and gluing/clamping with titebond II (or Gorilla glue – let me know which might be better…). I’m trying to figure out what finish might be best to seal and prevent any undue movement. The boards are at least a decade old and are very stable and true. I was planning on staining the top and using 4-6 coats of a spar urethane on all sides. Will this work, or should I use some other type of finish like a Tung oil? Thanks for your input.
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I'm not going to answer your question on wood finish, I'm sure there are people here with more information than me on that subject, but I would recommend gorilla glue over titebond for anything exterior. It has a way better track record dealing with moisture, and better safe than sorry.
zak
"so it goes"
Another vote for Resorsinol (sp?). I used it on a boat I built as a kid -- 35 years later glue joints tight! A bit messy and smelly to mix but durable.
Regardless of what finish you use, all wood shrinks and expands with the seasons. Finish can slow the process down but will not prevent it. It really doesn't matter much if you use a surface finish like spar varnish or a penetrating finish like tung oil. Unless there is no way this wood will be exposed to direct sunlight and rain, I would avoid oil finishes. Spar varnish can be a good choice if exposed to sunlight due to it's UV inhibitors, but it remains relatively soft. A UV-stablized polyurethane might just be the ticket, especially for a bar top. As far as glue goes, the absolute best for outdoor glue-ups is epoxy. It's readily available where boatbuilding supplies are sold, or various sources like Jamestown Distributors. You can even coat your entire project in epoxy to slow moisture transfer as much as possible, but you still need a topcoat of poly, etc.
Conrad
West system epoxy 3 coats, finish with spar. Works great for boats and will be water tight like a frogs hiney. Use it to glue up the boards also. If you are so inclined, there are some tricks to using and I would fill in the spaces if needed.
Yep, what Danusan said. Resorcinol would also work well, but is overkill for a bar top, and the epoxy is the superior coating for moisture control, so you will need to buy it anyway. Overcoat with marine spar varnish, and you're done.Bill
personally I would go for the gorilla glue. I've had some glue failures when using epoxies with oak (has something to do with the natural acids in the wood)
Resorcinol would work well but the gluelines will show as the glue dries red.
if you do coat it with epoxy make sure you coat all surfaces top and bottom even where you can't see, any uncoated surfaces will absorb moisture causing the board to cup, but it will provide an excellent base for the urethane spar varnish.
Duncan Miller carpenter/wooden boatbuilder