Replies

1. 
   hammer1 | Apr 01, 2011 11:54am | #1

   Those of us that are in the business normally use a chemical stripper to remove the old finish completely. We use plastic scrapers, putty knives and card scrapers, being careful not to mark the wood. Sanding should be kept to a minimum and may not be necessary. If the table is veneered, it won't take much to sand through. A light hand sanding, no power sanders, with 220 should be all you need after stripping. I would advise against sanding off the existing finish.

   There is no such thing as "the best" in just about everything. Don't make the mistake of practicing on the table. Get a substantial piece of oak, slather it with the stripping mess, then strip it for a sample. You want an easy to apply, durable finish that will stand up to spills, cleaning chemicals, abrasion, food acids and alcohol. Something like a wipe on polyurethane meets all that criteria. I would use a satin gloss given your experience level.

1. 
   dgale | Apr 01, 2011 10:46pm | #2

   Thanks - I hadn't thought about using stripper but that makes sense.  It's a solid oak table (no veneer) but still I can see why sanding is discouraged.  

2. 
   Scott | Apr 04, 2011 12:34am | #5

   Here's some pics of a 100+ year old chair I'm refinishing:

   If you like this look, here's the schedule:

   - strip with regular stripper (Methylene Chloride)

   - rinse well with pure isopropyl alcohol

   - sand with 120

   - fill grain (I used Timbermate, but I've heard good things about Famowood too).

   - sand filler with 400 when dry. If you're real fussy, do a second coat, dry, sand. Vacuum or wipe clean.

   - two coats of "special sauce". (1/3 pure Tung oil, 1/3 boiled linseed oil, 1/3 gloss poly.) Apply with foam brush. Let dry for a week. Then apply second coat. Let dry for a week. Don't even think about applying a water based poly over this mixture; it will not adhere.

   - three coats of gloss poly cut 50/50 with mineral spirits. This basically makes for a wipe-on poly. I applied it very sparingly with a foam brush. Scuff with 400 sandpaper between coats.

   - one or two coats of satin poly, depending on how glossy (or not) you like.

    

   (By the way... you might be better to ask this question over at Knots....most people here at BT deal with houses, not furniture.)

   
1. 
   DanH | Apr 03, 2011 07:53pm | #3

   And, of course, be careful with any rags or papers soaked with a linseed oil product -- spontaneous combustion is not just for horror movies.

1. 
   Scott | Apr 03, 2011 08:26pm | #4

   >>>spontaneous combustion is

   >>>spontaneous combustion is not just for horror movies.

   Zackly. No rags were harmed in the refinishing of this chair.....

3. 
   calvin | Apr 04, 2011 06:18pm | #6

   dgale

   Look up on the left at the top-in the box with your name on it-down aways in that box is Knots Forum and All Forums.  That should provide a link to knots and the others..............

   eventho you're signed in here, you'll probably have to sign in with your email address and password to get into the other sites...............DO NOT MAKE a new password for the same email-use the same you have here...................

   I think.