Hi everyone, I’m planning to tie in an enclosed patio room connected to 2 walls(stucco). What is the very best sealant to use with flashing at the connection points?
My neighbors had a proffessionally installed screen room put in. And the installers used a brown, flexible, caulk type stuff for seal. But they dont know what was used.
Thanks guys
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If it was me, I'd use Urethane caulk. Adheres well to wood, metal, concrete, plaster, stucco..............and your hands.
Hard to tool, but you can make it look good. If wanting a crisp line-put painters tape on each side of the area, apply caulk and tool thin to the tape. Peel tape away soon, pulling away from the caulk.
Several colors available from Tremco, use dymonic.
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Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
When you tool urethane caulk, do you dip the tool in solvent, or have you found a way to keep the caulk from grabbing onto the tool?
my method, spit on a finger.
After an initial set, it can be smoothed with a thinner moistened finger.
I'm having a dumb attack, but it was mentioned recently about denatured alcohol ITHINK. A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Would polyurathane be better than silicone for this? Do most contractors use urethane?
urethane caulk is the way to go,use an ice cube to smooth the joints, seems weird, but works.
I wouldn't use silicone in this situation.
Couldn't say what "most" contractors would use, but for me, Urethane for best bond between dissimilar materials.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Actually, per the Exterior Design Institute and Moisture Free Waranty Corp., Dow 795 or Dow 790 is the specified caulk when joining disimilar materials to stucco. These are silicone caulks. An expansion joint (backer rod and caulk) is also required. If the caulk is to be painted, then a third option of DAP Dynaflex 230 is acceptable.
The key is a low modulus of elasticity that will remain flexible over time.
Wow, thank you very much John!
Actually Dynaflex is a chore to use. I have tried it a couple times and find that the difficult to apply Urethane caulk is by far a better product. More body and known stretch and return ability. For metal to wood to concrete to stucco to glass to darn near anything, my choice over all others.
But what do I know, just a dumb carpenter.
John, who is Moisture Free Warranty Corp? and I suppose, the ext. des. institute also?
thanks.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
I don't like the silicone for things like this either. It breaks free from metal after a few years and the acid in silicone caulk is hard for the bond to stucco. Can't imagine that it would be recommended since it is more likely to fail than either poilyurethene or geocel.Personally, I would use thje Geocel because I always have it, it sticks to almost anything, and I have found it to be 300-800% expandable after three years.
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I was going to say Lexel, but you've finally convinced me to try the geocel.When I find some, I'll try it and see how it compares to the lexel.Hopefully, it's cheaper. LOL
"And, in my humble view, neither Democratic nor Republican party politics has anything to do with lib or con anymore. It's now just pandering to the visceral hatred that's been bred amongst those who refuse to waste their time and energy performing one of the singular most difficult tasks known to man: thinking." -SHG
It runs about $4.10 retail per tube here.I had to pull a window trim I had installed three years before on the coast - to run an addition wall intersect. Getting that bead of caulk to part was...
I had to slice it with a sharp knife at teh window edgfe and then peel it away. It was similar to playing with a rubber band. That is what realy made me a true believer.It functions a lot like an adhesive caulk in certain places too. The crew likes to use it to seat mitred corner joints like the fascia outside corners.
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Ok, that's half the cost of lexel here.That's double the punch for the dollar, if it is as good.You know what the glue called Goop is, right ?I have been wondering if goop and lexel are the same thing. They both tend to glue pretty much anything to anything. They both stay flexible. The lexel stays a bit more flexible in the long run than the goop. And the lexel stays clear. I think the goop clouds. But they smell the same, work the same, etc. I should probably quit being so lazy and google it.Goop will seal up cracks in the plastic water bottles under the hood of your car. Like the radiator overflow, and the windshield washer. I don't know of anything else that will actually do that, and last. Silicone only lasts for a couple of years, if that long. Plus, it is easily peeled off. The goop will not come off.The goop I used 7 years ago on a windshield washer bottle is still as strong as it ever was. In all that heat, chemicals, gasoline, oil, etc...It holds just as well on fabric, glass, metal, ceramic, (both glazed and unglazed), and wood. Lexel does the same on all of the above.
"And, in my humble view, neither Democratic nor Republican party politics has anything to do with lib or con anymore. It's now just pandering to the visceral hatred that's been bred amongst those who refuse to waste their time and energy performing one of the singular most difficult tasks known to man: thinking." -SHG
I have some Goop where the toe of my boot is worn thru
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Paul, that's why I'm asking about these organizations. Lab tests can provide some pretty good information, but actual time and usage is the deciding factor.
OSI had a butyl rubber caulk that worked well on some substrates, they now carry a decent color matched to vinyl siding caulk that is a bit sticky. When color is a consideration, I'd use one of theres. While urethane can be had in several colors from my concrete and brick supply, the siding colors are much more varied.j
Nice day today, did you have any big time issues on the ballot?A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
beautiful weather today!Remember the old butyl caulks? Nasty to work with, but good stuff until they dried and cracked after maybe twenty years.I can get OSI by mail order, but nobody local stocks it. I thionk that is a bnig factor with a lot of these things.Our only issue worthy of notice ( bunch of bonds) was a gay rights referendum. if local turnout was any indication, it was a high number of people voting. When I stopped by, Carole ( she is an election judge) said that nearly 200 people had already voted. I don't think more than 270 have ever voted here before. We might have 450 registered voters tops
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"It breaks free from metal after a few years and the acid in silicone caulk is hard for the bond to stucco."That is not true of all RTV's.I downloaded the data sheet on the Dow 795 and it is a Neutral Cure silicone. That means it does not generate any acid.http://www.dowcorning.com/content/construction/commglazpro/795_color_chart.asp
OK, what is an RTV?
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RTV - Room Temperature Vulcanizing Here is the link for some details on the different types of curing RTV silicone.http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/silicones/cureguide.html
RTV is the acronym for Ready To Vulcanize, generally a silicon rubber liquid that will vulcanize when exposed to air. Smells like vinegar.rayknot...Baby took a limo to Memphis with the windows rolled down, ... you just can't stop a woman who is out of control.
The Exterior Design Institute is a non-profit organization founded for the purpose of training and certifying Third Party Exterior Insulation Finish System (EIFS) (Stucco) Inspectors and Moisture Analysts to promote quality control within the EIFS industry.The Exterior Design Institute is a non-profit organization founded for the purpose of training and certifying Third Party Exterior Insulation Finish System (EIFS) Inspectors and Moisture Analysts to promote quality control within the EIFS industry.
Moisture Free Warranty Corp is the only nationally avialable warranty for protecting homes from moisture intrusion. The warranty is good for up to 5 years and $150,000 in repair cost.
These guys warranty homes against moisture intrusion and they specify the Dow 790 and 795 caulks that I referred to. These silicone caulks are not the standard silicone caulk that you may find in the box stores. They are low modulus products capable of handling 50% movement in joints.
Ease of application is not really a consideration.They are soley interested in the ability of the caulking to provide the required protection over the warranty period. They also give specific instructions as to the installation of the caulk and backer rod.
I think that you did a double-tap on your paste button in that first paragraph.As I said to Cal, the silicones separate from metal after a few years. That would be consistant with a warrantee lasting five years, I guess. Does this outfit rely more on flashings or on caulkings? If on caulkings, I would think they'd be looking for something that will go twenty years.EIFS is ofcourse a different product from true stucco. I think the portland based is what was mentioned here, and no silicone should be used around it. Silicones have (acetic?) acid, which is damaging to stucco and other masonry, so that bond would not last either.
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Yes, EIFS is a different product than true 3 coat portland Type I & II cement stucco. However, acrylic polmer modified portland based stuccos are also used with EIFS. One coat stucco is an example and it may or may not be applied over EPS. Quite often I find it installed over a metal lathe and brown board.
Moisture Free Warranty also provides coverage for Hardcoat Stucco and not just the polymer based EIFS such as found in the Dryvit product that caused so many problems. The Dow 790 and 795 silicone caulks required by Moisture Free are acid free and react with moisture to cure.
Moisture Free relies on a combination of flashings and sealants.
Thanks everyone
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Jay,
Absolutely POLYurethane caulk. It's paintable, flexible, and currently guaranteed to last 50 years. A word of warning though.....if applied in cool temps, it can take forever to set up. We're talking weeks. enough time for all sorts of dirt and bugs to get stuck to it. Also, pre-warm the tube to at least 80F. Your trigger hand will thank you.
WSJ