I will be installing 2 pieces of laminate countertoop which form an L and meet at a miter. What is the best way to true up the 2 pieces (level, miters meet tightly and equally, no V-ing at the miter, and what is the best glue for the miter?
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If you are talking about gluing the slab joint at a miter, then yellow wood glue will do, along with the onnector bolts. If you are talking bout glueing the laminate sheet to the slab, then it is contact cement.
Dave
Titebond 3. Waterproof and has a longer "open time" for alignment.
If you use a regular wood glue, that is not waterproof, you may void the warranty.
I've never seen a warrenty on a post form laminated top, particularly for a field installed miter joint. I 've only installed a couple hundred, so maybe I missed something?
Other than that, you are right, i should have told him Titebond 3
Dave
Yeah, but before TBIII, I bet the Native Americans used Hide glue on thier Formica tops.
The top I put in a couple of weeks ago made by Wausau in WI, does specify the use of waterproof glue in the install instructions. They do warranty the product if installed properly, but claims are limited to product replacement (no labor)--typical jive.I still read the fine print...CYA.
I put in tops on HUD apartment complexes, in fact whole kitchens. the stuff the GC supplied was so cheap I often had ro rebuild it before installation. Later they upgraded to a big local supplier, but they still wouldn'd warrenty tops. I think some of the big box stores around here use the same local company for custom ordered tops, but don't know for sure. Don't know if the big boxes offer a warenty.
Your fortunate to have such a source, evn if it is full of shuck and jive.
Dave
Sounds like most of you are happy with Titebond 3. I was thinking in terms of either polyurethane ("Gorilla Glue",) or a glue which is appparently considered passe' now, but which I have used in the past : resorcinol. "Disadvantages of it are that it is 2-part (maroon liquid and powder) and the dried line is maroon, but it withstands boiling in water for 2 days without any loosening. It has a reasonable open time. Opinions?
Standard wood glue will be fine. The joint is very tight and only might have a problem if a soaking wet rag is left on the seam for days and days. A more likely area for problems is the sink cutout.
Thanks, guys. I will be very comfortable using Titebond III.