Best install technique for wide pine flo
Jer
| Posted in Construction Techniques on
GC I sub for wants to install 12″ E White Pine flooring, it’s just 1 x 12 that is kerfed on the back halfway through with about an inch between kerfs. It is in the room presently acclimating for the next 2 weeks, (very very dry in there at the moment), and he wants to glue the boards down with const adhesive and finish nails, like a 15g 8d. This is not t&g. I’m a little reticent because of the expansion thing…or does the glue take care of that? Wouldn’t it maybe crack the wood if the glue didn’t allow it to move? What do you all think?
Andy, I know you’ve done these in your own house and have experience with this. I have only installed t&g wide planks and we always used spacers, and it was always ash and oak. Pine is a different animal.
Replies
Never did wide pine plank so may be of no help.
Only thing I want to add is if you do decide to glue it, use the type of glue designed to glue down wood floors (I've used Roberts brand a couple of times with good results on strip floor and wood parquet tiles that had to be glued). It retains a little bit of "give" even after it dries so the floor can move when it needs to.
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I'm the GC who is installing the 1x12 pumpkin pine flooring. It is a t+g product. I think the idea about adhesive used for wood flooring so that it gives a little is a good one. Does that come in tubes? I have founnd it in 4 gallon containers to be trowelled down. I think that covering the entire floor with adhesive is not a good idea. A wavy snake of adhesive is what I am planning on now. What do you all think.
Jer, I installed planks like you dicribe in my 3 season home in Mass.. I installed 1x12x16 foot boards over tar paper and used cut nails to fasten to the sub floor. I stained and used three coats of a clear finished. No problems to date with spliting or shrinking. Good Luck.
Jer, A neighbour of mine installed eastern white pine using PL-400 I think. There was some cracking, cupping and shrinking after the first year.
That could work OK. I'd use wood flooring adhesive also, having had success with Bostik in a 3.5 gal tub
The pine will only split ( check) if you lay it damp ( expanded) and it dries ( shrinks) later. By laying it dry now, if it moves, it willbe pressing against adjacent pioeces. If oak, they would would lift thmselves off the subfloor and break the glue joint, but because pine is weaker and softer, it would just bruise the edges, later leaving a gap when they shrink back again.
I don't know if the 15ga nailsare enough to do much good though. I'd use trim head SS ring nailsand setthem if I wanted a no nail face nailed look I suppose, but they rre a brittle nail so...?
One way to minimize movement is to back prime and seal coat with shellac or just to hit the backs first, then finish the surface quickly after laying so as to seal it against absorbing air-borne moisture.
One more point - it sounds like this is not a T&G.
I would mill splines in the edges. I don't believe this will stay flat at edges and later will raise raw wood. Tongues or splines keep surfaces in alignment.
Also, use advanced search for other discussions on this topic. Andy, myself, and others jhave had much more to say.
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"use advanced search for other discussions on this topic. Andy, myself, and others jhave had much more to say."I have done just that and have found some answers I was looking for, but it took a while and so I posted my questions. I don't know why, but the search in here doesn't work that well at times. Thanks everyone for your input.
I don't know why either. it is like it has hormone problems
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Andy, I know you've done these in your own house and have experience with this. I have only installed t&g wide planks and we always used spacers, and it was always ash and oak. Pine is a different animal.<<<<<<
None of my boards have had any significant separation issues at all.
I used PL Premium and no T&G either.
Face nailed with 3 1/2" rose heads.
I've gone through all the seasons twice.
It was glued to Advantech btw fwtw
http://WWW.CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Edited 1/16/2007 8:40 am ET by andybuildz
My newest update btw is that the rooms I just nailed down over red rosin paper seperated quite a bit more than the glued rooms. Still not to any degree to be concerned about but the glued rooms seem to be better.
I let the boards acclimate for quite a long time as well. At least a good month if not more before I got to them.
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