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Come on and help the duffus…
I see people doing their valleys , differently.
What is the best method.
Asphalt shingles , 4/12 pitch , Chi town area.
Thanks,
the Duffus
Built from locally sawn hemlock, this functional outdoor feature uses structural screws and metal connectors for fast, sturdy construction.
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Replies
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open valley, with metal, traditional treatment
woven valley, used to be the old standard
california cut valley, probably the most popular today....maybe 90% of the valleys we do...
*I agree with Mike on all accounts. Some places in the country are different though as to what is preferred. Also goes with house style sometimes. Depends on the look ya want.Billy
*Woven if low pitched and may see a good amount of snow. Cut valley (califoria) if looks are what your after and easy install. Metal with W bed for that certain look some are after. All get the job done.
*Thanks Ron..Will be low pitch and it do snow a bit here inthe windy city.I gather you mean a full weave, that be both runs of shingles going past the valley?Duffus
*yup. You may find that you have to run two in a row into the valley now and then to keep the even weave looking good. Good Luck.
*I'm no roofer (not full time anyway). I've always been told though that a woven vally is OK on lower slopes and/or those that don't shed a lot of water. ie on a steeper slope, water will be moving faster, and the more deck above a slope, the more water volume will be running down. The "more water" and "faster travel speed" applications should be "W" channel metal vally. The idea being the "W" breaks the force of water and helps direct it down the vally instead of up into and under the opposing roof slope shingles. So on a 4/12 you should be fine with woven valley unless you have a huge roof above that'll shed mucho water into the valley.
*I like cut valleys. But definitely use ice & water shield underneath.
*When you say to use Ice & Water shield underneath the cut valley, do you mean weave the felt coming from the two adjacent roofs, then place the I&W shield running up the valley or does the I&W shield go right on the plywood with the felt weaving above it? I have seen a lot of roofers in my area weave the felt from the two roofs, then just run a piece of felt up the valley (I guess the I&W shield would perform better than the felt in the valley). Do you stop your nails 4" or so out of the center of the valley or do you nail right up to the clipped corner of the cut side to hold it in place?Thanks for the details!Sami
*cement or caulk the shingle to the valley metal to stop water backup and NEVER nail past the caulk into the valley. If you do, you've just poked a hole into the water shedder and invited water in.
*the valley metal on the edges should have an open hem facing UP.. so any water blowing by will be returned..the hem should NOT be squashed so it can function as a water stop... most details show the valley metalnot nailed at all , rather it is held in place with clips hooked into the water-stop hem....
*Much as I hate to admit it, I read the directions on the ice & water shield I bought. (Just don't tell anyone) The directions called for it to be installed directly to the plywood. Then it wouldn't matter how you put the felt on, as long as it came over onto the ice & water shield. Guess you could do a "cut valley" in the felt if you wanted to.....(-:
*Where I live (NW Ohio) valleys are usually the first area to go because of greater water flow: often they're shot a few years before the rest of the roof surface. For my house: MetalWhatever you do, b don'tuse rolled mineral in/for the valley: guaranteed leaks well before th rest of the roof needs attention.
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Come on and help the duffus...
I see people doing their valleys , differently.
What is the best method.
Asphalt shingles , 4/12 pitch , Chi town area.
Thanks,
the Duffus