Best nails – cedar shingles/ gable end
McDesign
| Posted in Construction Techniques on
Thanksgiving project – rip all this aluminum off SIL’s house; install cedar shingles (red label) onto gables; both sides; ~24 wide X 6′ high; 144 sq.ft. exactly; Arlington, VA. Might alternate with some sawtooth/half-round courses.
What’s the best fastening method for this small amount – I have a coil roof nailer, but would have to pack my compressor up there. Hand-nail? SS? Galv? Rent a stapler and SS staples? Went to the website; they weren’t too specific. same nailing schedule/exposure for vertical?
What do my roofer and shingle-style buddies say?
Thanks –
Forrest – not a roofer
Edited 11/15/2007 9:41 am by McDesign
Replies
I'd hand nail with galvies, but that will take more than the Thanksgiving weekend.
Gotta go straighten this crick in my neck now
;)
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I am not a roofer or siding guy in particular. That said I'd consider galv. hand drives or my galv narrow crown stapler.
I always liked the feel of putting up cedar shingles with hand drives. I like the quiet and the movement of this type of work, always made me feel connected with my father and grandfather.
But those who put up a lot of this don't have the time for such nonsense.
Looks like fun.
It goes pretty quick on the straight runs without cuts.
Old Trick, run straight edges and then a string line above it to hold the shingles on the straight line nice n' tight and then nail them off as you move. It really helps to have two people and scaffolding. I've only hand driven nails but the big time outfits staple everything.
Edited 11/15/2007 9:15 pm ET by clinkard
forrest.... if they're WC, i'd use a HD Galv. 3 1/2d shingle nail..
i'd use my Bostich cn66
but if i didn't have a sidewall nailer.. i'd hand nail
pick a real straight 1x3.. snap your butt lines .. tack the 1x3 to the line .. and lay & nail your shingles as you go... on a rake like that, i'd start at the rakes and work to the middle
you also have to figure what you are going to do AT THE RAKE
is their a freize board to tuck under ?
if not maybe you want one..
or you can cut soldiers .. say rip a bunch of shingles to say 4".. lay them parallel to the rake at say 4" exposure or 5" exposure
if you're hand nailing , you pick a shingle, check it for coursing offset on the two courses below and nail it in place.. be careful not to stairstep off your straight edge
the string line would maybe be helpful if you were gun nailing.. but if you are handnailing , you pick a shingle , place it and nail it... so you really never get too far ahead anyways
one trick is to have a box ( like a milk crate ....yeah ! ) and place all your butts up so you can visually size them just by looking.... you don't want to sort them trying to find just the right sizeMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Forrest,
Ditto to what Mike Smith said, but if the shingles are to be left to weather (unfinished) I'd use stainless instead of galvanized. Here's a job we finished recently, clipped the ends of the rake shingles to avoid the fragile point, and applied a new wider frieze over the old one to come over the shingles. We used homeslicker behind the shingles and screened the bottom and top leaving vent space. We only did this wall and weren't able to change the coursing because of the woven corners, so couldn't line up the courses as I would have liked with the windows. Hope this helps, D.
What are those pipey lookin' things sticking out of the wall, lower right corner of your first pic?
Ya beat me to the same question.
Only thing I can figure is twin inside oil tanks.
But what do I know, around here all the tanks are outside above ground.
"Only thing I can figure is twin inside oil tanks." Indeed that's what it is, house was also built with 3/4" soft copper hot water baseboard heating lines against the sheathing outside the insulation, don't ask how I know this.
Super - like the clipped points - haven't seen that.
Forrest
The clipped points look great.
I would use stainless nails, anything else will bleed eventually....
Just got one gable side done - darkness stopped me; pix tomorrow. Loved your clipped points; I did the same - SIL is pleased. I just backed up 6" from the end "points" and kicked up perpindicular to the rake.Used PL and galv. finishing nails for the tiny bits. That OK?Forrest
Forrest,
Careful you don't get hooked on this outside work and give up those attic jobs!
Walter
I like the detail at the rakes but you should of lined up the edge of the shingles with the bottom edge of the windows.
Okay - finished up the other side last night, and only then took pix. Hard to see the ends, but they look great in person. About 28' wide and 6' high, plus the sides of a shed dormer in the back.
View Image
And hey - why did nobody tell me how long that stuff takes?
Forrest - just glad I didn't try to Be Like Mike (G) and make a duck
Edited 11/26/2007 10:40 pm by McDesign
Nice job, as with all of your work I've seen! We didn't tell you how long it takes because it's so enjoyable we hoped you'd agree to do the rest of the house before you sobered up ;<) Did you hand nail the whole thing? d.
I did hand nail. Felt better.
Forrest
Yeah I'd go with Stainless ring shank. I've heard this from a siding expert, but i could be wrong