Replies

1. 
   johnharkins | Apr 19, 2005 07:21pm | #1

   kind of like a deck - no fantastic answers
   UV rays will win out but Watco makes ( or made ) a teak oil and Penofin produces an oil for exotics - teak, ipe etc
   your linseed suggestion has to be just about as good
   one of the best things I've seen hold color and resist UV harm are the Flood CWF products - two coats of clear or cedar but its an obsessive / annual maintenance issue
   always appreciate your pictures - have some to share of the deck?

1. 
   Lateapex911 | Apr 21, 2005 06:32am | #8

   Thanks for all the replies, guys. Lot's of options, but the differences are clear now.

   John, I am not sur if I have posted these already, so fogive me if they are repeats. The quality is sketchy, as I used my vid cameras still setting. Kind of like a pipe wrench intead of a hammer.

   Specs are 5/4 mahog on 16" center 2 x8s spanning 8'. Perimeter banding, custom rail profile, EbTy hidden fasteners, and a whole lot of BoWrenching!  I did the cottage window addition and the shingles along with the deck.Jake Gulick

   [email protected]

   CarriageHouse Design

   Black Rock, CT

1. 
   johnharkins | Apr 21, 2005 07:17am | #9

   I did get to see those before but could they have been from different angles?
   I remember your flare posts - I had just finished some over a bellyband w/ about a 2 1/2" proud crown moulding - one of these semesters I'll get to the photo class
   anyway compliments to the classic cottage bank of windows ( what brand ? ), the bowed deck w/ primo rail and exquisite lattice below

2. 
   MikeSmith | Apr 19, 2005 07:37pm | #2

   marine teak oil..  try Jamestown Distributors  ( google )

   Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
1. 
   SenecaDog | Apr 19, 2005 10:12pm | #3

   Having tried many different varnishes and oils for the teak and mahogany on my old sailboat, I'd really recommend Cetol Marine Wood Finish made by Sikkens. It's not inexpensive (~$20/gallon) but produces an absolutely beautiful satin or glossy finish that looks very natural.  I've used it on many other projects with great results. It's pretty durable even in the harsh marine environment so it should hold up well.

   You can get it at most any marine supply store or over the internet.

    

3. 
   Sphere | Apr 20, 2005 02:20am | #4

   I have had good results with Pen-O-fin.  As seen in FHB.

    

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   " Do not add to the world's confusion, by speaking in unclear terms"

4. 
   UBuildIt | Apr 20, 2005 02:30am | #5

   Teak oil (quarterly) with sanding once a year is what we do.

   The wood must be completely dry when you apply the oil, or it will cause black mildew spots. Clean it first with soapy water and a brush and let totally dry. If you don't clean it first, the dirt gets embedded in the oil and makes dark spots and the wood will get darker and darker. A rag or brush is fine. One coat is enough.

   We buy teak oil at a marine supply store. You can use tung oil, too. Don't use a finish or stain or any chemicals.

    

   Let the beauty of what you love be what you do. ~ Rumi

1. 
   zendo | Apr 20, 2005 04:11am | #6

   What has been described is what is put on yachts for a matte finish.  Teak has a ton of oil in it, so it doesnt take varnishing well.  The spar process is a long 9 coat one.  You need to leach as much of the oil from the wood before you start.  After that it is a yearly update with either oil or Spar.

   Oil is much easier.  You can clean first with mineral spirits and let dry after you sand.  Dont be worried about the color on the cloth, thats the teak oil leaching from the wood.  The oil finish does need to be occasionally updated when it looks dry. 

   The marine products may have a "teak oil" with a UV inhibitor because the boats are very familiar with the sun.

   The spar process is a fun one, but a huge commitment on the part of the owner. 

   -zen

    

5. 
   Tom7 | Apr 20, 2005 04:23am | #7

   Try TWP 116 rustic red.  It works great.  You can build coats for a very nice finish.  It is best to reapply once a year to keep that nice color and preserve the surface.  Do a google search and you will find much more about it.  I used it on Ipe deck boards, hand rails, etc.  Many old pros who build Ipe decks swear by it.  It will do teh sam thing for teak.

6. 
   BarryO | Apr 21, 2005 11:32am | #10

   You've probably tried this with them, but one great thing about teak is that is weathers naturally better than any wood I've seen:  better than redwood, WRC, cypress, etc.  Those other woods turn grey, but also get a rough surface after a few years.

   Not teak.  I remember all those teak benches I saw in London parks.  They've been there forever, unfinished and grey, but still had a decent surface.

7. 
   bayviewrr | Apr 21, 2005 01:54pm | #11

   I had the exact same situation....mahogony deck and teak furniture.  Used Penofin and had great results.  That's my suggestion.

    

   Brian...Bayview Renovation