Best technique for joints in Formica©
geoffhazel
| Posted in Construction Techniques on
I ususally get lucky with my countertops and don’t need much seaming, but I have one coming up and I need to make some sort seams/joints (at the sink) and also one joint in the backsplash (yes, I’m using laminate backsplash with the aluminum trim pieces).
What’s the best way to make these joints as invisible as possible? You can’t “double cut” laminate like you can vinyl. 🙁
Replies
It's been a while since I came across one of these... there's a tool that lets you use the edge of one piece to guide the cutting of the other so they match when laid down. It's basically a router guide. The laminate/hardware wholesaler I used to buy from sold them along with a lot of other laminate tools. You need to be able to move the tool thru the entire range of the material, i.e. it would be difficult to do on an installed piece that has a backsplash abutting it.
I have a base for my Bosch laminate trimmer that is a "seamer base" - (double cut)- it takes a little bit of set up with each cut/ change of material but it works pretty good. Try Bosch.?..
Yes, you can double-cut it with a router.
seaming laminate is fairly easy, you might need to invest a little money though
i always start with the larger piece, trim to size by whatever method you usually use and then cut the seam
i use a metal straight edge to guide a laminate trimmer with a really sharp(like new) bit, then do the same on the mating piece and check the fit before laminating
apply the contact cement making sure there is no cement on the edge to be joined(rub it off with your finger)
apply the larger sheet as you normally do, and roll it out
using spacers(i use venetian blind slats) place the adjoining sheet against the laminated section and check carefully for gaps, pull back the slats a little at a time while watching the seam
with a little practice, the seam will be almost invisible and far superior to the seam in most postform tops
another hint: laminate does have directional qualities, if you can,place laminate in the same direction, "grain" is visible on the back of the sheet, this is especially important in textured laminates or dark colors
caulking is not a piece of trim
Yes you can double cut it. Porter Cable has a seamer attachment in which the two pieces are overlapped and cut. They match up nicely.
Invest in a good laminate trimmer kit, and use fresh contact cement. Avoid those seams around the sink, please. Put a full piece there and do two seams on either side, well away from the water.
Boris
"Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934
cut your edge w/router and a straight guide.
slightly back bevel the edge, just a swipe or two with your file.
apply one piece. as usual.
2nd piece... near seam, using your dowels, or whatever, start at the seam, apply first 4" or so, then leave in a spacer, then finish the sheet. Then pull out the spacer you left in. You now have a "bubble". Roll out the bubble towards the seam, this forces the edges tighter.
What's the best way to make these joints as invisible as possible?
I'm quite a few years behind the times, but my laminate trimmer has an Art Betterley base that trims both pieces at one time. With micro adjustment, the joint will snap together to give as tight a seam as I've ever seen. My trimmer is a Stanley, but if Art's still putting out tools, and he had a lot of them, they will be on the bottom of somebody else's trimmer.
PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!
Last time I saw Art Betterley stuff it was screwed to a Porter Cable 310 trimmer But that`was`a few years ago
90 percent of the time i get by without a seam, but when I do have to put one in I try to put it in the center of the sink where very little seam shows. A well glued seam is not affected by water.
"
90 percent of the time i get by without a seam, but when I do have to put one in I try to put it in the center of the sink where very little seam shows. "
My kitchen is U shapped. And I have two seams. One at the sink and the other on the oposite wall with a drop in range.
I did not know where the seams where until I found that the laminate came in 5ft sheets. Then I was able to measure and find the seams.
And I have a dark leather texture laminate ***. And the grain changes direction at the seams. But there is so little showing that you don't notice it.
*** I built the house in 79 and while my needs, taste, and building practices have changes, but if I had to rebuild it as it was 95% of it is perfect. But my choice of counter top patterns was one of the the 5%. WHAT IN THE H*LL WAS I THINKING WHEN I PICKED THAT.
You can also make a jig from MDF with a slot routed in it for a guide bushing, use a good sharp straight bit, line up the laminate in the opening, and trim the laminate with your router, Kampel also makes seamfill for the joints & chips if you need help hiding it.
Edited 1/29/2004 11:26:16 AM ET by craig
Some time ago I was told (but never confirmed) that one could special order sheets up to 8'X16'... The manufacturer(s) like to tell you that the press is only 4X8 or 5X12 but I believe they have a creative way of making larger sheets. Can anyone confirm that larger sheets can be special ordered (larger than 5X12). If so, this could solve the seam issue (i.e. eliminate it).
never heard of sheets larger than 5x12 and ive been laminating stuff for 15 years
another tip: if you must do a seam around a wet area like a sink, waterproof the area before laminating with a brushon epoxy, i use West System, its a two part epoxy that you mix and then spread with a small scraper and lightly sand after curing
i've built several small wooden boats with the stuff and its waterproof
caulking is not a piece of trim
You have recieved excellent advice thus far.
If you don't have laminate trim router, I suggest the Bosh builders kit. It has all you need and a excellent set of instructions for seaming and using the assorted bases. Mine is 15 to 16 years old and still going strong. I have been building custom tops for 25+ years, and the buider/installers kit sure made life easier.
If you can avoid the use of the metal edgeing stuff, please do, unless you are trying to match something from the fifties era. That stuff just seems to attract junk. Six months after you build a top with that type edgeing, you can run your fingernail along it and scape out a really good science project of food remains. Yuk!
If you really want nearly invisable seams, move up to solid core laminate. The color goes all the way through the laminate, so you do not get the phenolic line at the edges. Wilson Art produces a color core product I use often. Formica may also make something like it, but I do not like the product durability.
Dave
If you really want nearly invisable seams, move up to solid core laminate.
If only we DIYers could get the stuff.You get out of life what you put into it......minus taxes.
Marv
Marv, solid color core p-lam is available at any Wilson Art supplier. I use a cabinet supply company, but believe you can special order it through the big box stores.
I am not referring to Gibralter or Corian products. Not only are they difficult for DIY to get, even the pros need a certification to purchase them, I believe. I have not looked into fabrication certification of those products in a few years, they may have lightened up some of the qualifiers. Maybe I'll look into them agian this year.
Inbetween the solid surface products and the run of the mill p-lam tops are the Perma-edge products. Wilson Arts system is the one I use, but there are a couple of other system that are equal or easier to fabricate. I think FHB did a article on p-lam counter tops and had a sidebar on the different edging systems, you migt search the archives for them. I use color core products for those tops also, if the customer is willing to move up that far. These systems land about half way between solid surface and regular p-lams in pricing.
Dave
thanks for the tip Dave.You get out of life what you put into it......minus taxes.
Marv
Caulking is not a piece of trim
Steve I agree, and the less calking or putty the better, but
your comment remided me of the olden days when we were doing a lot of production or low budget cheap shi* and one of the older guys use to have this little "ditty"
carpenter carpenter
do your best
tub and tile ( caulk)
do the rest
unfortuantely there are times still where budget is the biggest concern and one of the older guys that is still with me , yo can still here him ocasional just say the first line
carpenter carpenter
and we all know that it means............hes got caulking in mind