I’m installing prefinished 2 1/4 inch t&g red oak flooring. I have to angle cut some of the board ends that will abutt a header. I have a slot cuttung bit for my router to cut the groove. I am looking for recommendations on how to make the micro-bevel on the top edge. Block plane, Chamfering bit, Angle cut on miter saw, RAS?
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Replies
Bevel plane.
(Though I guess they call them "chamfer planes" -- http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5320&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=pla&utm_campaign=PLA&gclid=CNXo6qHPlrgCFe9cMgodxSgAWg .)
Jim
on a microbevel, there's not much wood lost-I'd make a couple passes with sandpaper on a block.
Hi Jimmien, I am not the vocabulary police, but by header I am assuming you are talking about a threshold? It doesn't really matter. For consistent results that will match the factory bevel I would use a small router, like the Bosch Colt, with a small chamfer bit. A block plane on oak end grain make give you tear out unless you are a master woodworker with razor sharp tools. The chop saw would work if you didn't have alot of ends to cut. Set up the router and don't change the setup until all your ends are beveled I say.
Add Bevel to Hardwood Floor
Flush Threshold is what I meant. I've been reading some books and they use different terms for the board(s) used to change the direction of the flooring or separate rooms......e.g. flush threshold, header, turn board. I don't have a trim router (this would be a good reason to get one) but my miter saw is a compound. I saw the BoschColt on sale.....just need to determine the correct chamfer angle.
I like using a file for chamfers and roundovers, especially on end grain. It gives a quick, easily controlled cut, which you can refine to exactly match the factory bevel.
File for chamfer
What type of file would you recommend? I have a few files but don't use them very often so I'm not sure which to use.
I like the Nicholson 8" (Home
I like the Nicholson 8" (Home Depot item #06601)
It's two-sided: one side is the single-cut tooth pattern for a fine finish, and the other side is the double-cut tooth pattern for more aggressive stock removal.
It also has the advantage of having an integral handle.
Before you buy the Bosch
Look at the little DeWalt. IMHO, a more versatile and precise tool. I ended up with the DeWalt and am very pleased.
Good luck.
This can be done on a stationary belt sander. tilt the table to the angle you want, add a fence and a stop to the table and sand away!
The finish will most likely contain a large amount of silica so don't expect rounter bits to last long and you'll have to sand or file a bit to get rid of chatter marks. Personally I think you're better off not beveling any more than absolutely neccessary if at all. Any bevel will be difficult to finish so it matches, won't be as durable as the factory finish, and unless someone looks down and scrutinizes the board ends nobody will even notice the ends aren't beveled.
Microbevels hide uneven floors, trap dirt, and allow easier installation. They are definitely not there for looks. :)
Micro bevel on Hardwood Flooring
Good point. I will abutt the board(s) to the header and only do a micro-bevel if there is serious overwood. I don't really like micro bevels on flooring and I only went the prefinished route to avoid the site finish dust and poly smells. My flooring is natural..just a poly finish over bare wood. The color match won't be a problem....I made some T molding out of the some of the flooring which involved chamfering both edges which removed the factory poly. I refinished with Min Wax poly (I'm still looking for a better product) and got an excellent match. I've also read that the factory poly contains aluminum oxide which is a health hazzard if the dust is breathed. Gee nothing is safe.
Durability wise the minwax oil based poly tested out as good as any of the others in common use. There are some high $$$ finishes that are more durable, but to have a significant improvment you're probably going to have to use a two-part urethane that's more toxic than anything else used in residential construction short of the two part spray foams before it's cured.
Thank You for info.....I'll just continue to use the Minwax oil-based poly. My next concern is the stairs which I will buy unfinished and then finish myself before installing. I'll be putting a runner on the stairs so using minwax should be fine for this too. Have you used the new minwax poly which is advertised as a high-build product?
There may be a difference between generic polyurethane and what they are calling high build, but my guess is it's marketing and they needed to call regular old poly something fancy. After looking at the Minwax website I'm even more convinced it's just marketing.
It's somewhat funny that home improvement products are marketed more and more like women's shampoo....everything has to say it's new and improved, even if it's just the same old thing.
Bevel on Hardwood Floor Boards
I took your advice and just removed the sharp edge with some 220 grit on a sanding block. Got a nice tight fit and good alignment (no overwood) on all 13 boards.
Sounds great!