Best way to affix XPS to concrete wall?
GraniteStater
| Posted in General Discussion on
In process of finishing a portion of my basement.
I’m putting 2″ XPS insulation against the concrete foundation wall and then building out stud wall in front of that.
What is the best method/material for adhering the XPS to the foundation wall?
If an adhesive alone.. do you brace the panels while they cure? if so, any recommendations?
Thanks!
Replies
I've always used concrete nails and foam adhesive. Make the nails penetrate just enough to hold till the adhesive sets. And use just enough to hold it, maybe 3-4 along one vertical seam. Use the T&G board.
Rich
Granite stater,
EIFS stucco base coat works well as mortar/adhesive.
Ron
enerfoam glue and brace it in place for 15 - 30 minutes
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any tips for easy bracing?thanks.
1x3 strapping makes nice, inexpensive, springy braces when you need to apply a little pressure. Plan your cleats on adjacent floors, walls, whatever,then cut strapping just a 1/2 inch or so longer than the distance needed and spring them into place until adhesive cures.
Got it. Thanks Redford and others that have replied.Tomorrow is President's day so I have off... guess what I'll be doing??
I mostly just try to hold it in place with the studwall, either slip it behind the wall section (not always possible) ,tack it to the studwall before tilting it up, or somtimes I have to build the wall in place anyway,so it is easy
Be sure to foam any resulting gaps
be sure to foam any resulting gapsGaps in... ?it's T&G... if I have a gap at wall intersection I will seal with sprayfoam can... what other gaps are you thinking about?Edited 2/15/2009 2:58 pm ET by GraniteStater
Edited 2/15/2009 2:58 pm ET by GraniteStater
Edited 2/15/2009 2:59 pm ET by GraniteStater
a few 2x4s or whatever is handy in the room and ho w much space you have.
Sometimes a ort of ledger on ceiling to stick top of 12x4 into, then pry the rest of it tight against the foam and throw a tool box up against the bottomgaps can happen because foam can get damage handling, and the slab can be uneven, and some guys are just plain careless about getting it in place right before the glue kicks.
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that is what I'm talking about,gaps between panels
I've never done it but I'd try low velicity impact gun with nails with washers. Same way FSK insulation is secured to concrete walls.
I dont know if they have long enough nails for it but that would be my 1st try.
A few nails with the glue and you are good to go if it works.
All they really had for adhesive is PL300 foam board... says cure time is 1 hour.I am putting up foam now, building out stud wall/drywall/electrical/etc. later this spring - time short with many other projects... just want to make room warmer for my boys.Interior partition walls are already up and drywalled. the one wall I had to butt to the foundation I did put a piece of the 2" XPS in place before standing up the wall... the PL did a decent job along with a snug fit between floor and joist... but it wasn't exactly 100% adhered (one edge pulled back a little).On one wall I'm using the 1-1/2" board that uses strapping and tapcons to hold it up... so that shouldn't be a problem (using smaller size b/c can't do foam + studwall on that wall due to clearance issues with a door opening.
I think that would be dangerous, Jeff. A ricochet would have nothing to stop it but you.
Good point, I recon, but the fiberglass that they staple to the wall goes on the same way.
I've stapled it a few times and never thought about ricochets but I'd be wearing safety glasses either way.
I hunt and use firearms regularly and my low velocity gun still makes me nervous!!
No need to glue it to the concrete. I use pieces of foam as wedges between the new wall and foamboard... that pushes the board against the concrete. Foam the remaining gaps between the wood and foamboard after the wall is completed to hold it forever.
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Just finished doing a basement with Dow Polyiso foam, but it is aluminum foil faced on both sides. Used elcheapo Liquid Nails and two plastic shields with 2" deck screws and fender washers, in the concrete wall in the center of the board. All the boards have a slight bow to them and with three horizontal beads, top, bottom and center, it holds like a champ. Actually the glue is probably not necessary as the weight is so little, the two screws hold well enough. With a good rotohammer, it only takes 30 secs to put in the shields and then you put a couple of short screws in the shields first and leave them stick out a half inch and then press the foam board up on them and that marks the back of the board, remove, drill the board and put up on wall and insert the 2" screws with fender washers and it is done.
I use PL300
Fit the foam tight between the floor and the ceiling joists
Use the red tape on the seams as I go
Occasionally have to lean a 2x or saw horse or something on a panel, but, not too often
Good luck,
I just installed a whole bunch.
I used Liquid Nails "heavy duty" to glue and 6 powder actuated nails w/washers per 4x8 sheet. The glue I used was the only 20oz glue that Home Depot had that is rated for use on XPS, it is also the cheapest way to go. Be sure to read the label, it will say if it is or isn't recommended for use on XPS.
I assume I could've gotten away with just using the nails and no glue.
DC