Best way to cut holes in Alum. Soffit???
vintage1
| Posted in Construction Techniques on
All,
I’ve got about 300 lf of alum. soffit to install on a new house and the overhangs are loaded with can lights.
We are using Rollex’s new product called stealth soffit http://www.rollex.com/products/stealth-soffit
I have really only installed a few can lights into aluminum soffit before and have used snips, but was never really happy with the results.
This time, I have a 4′ overhang and at least 25 lights to do so I want to make them look good as well as perform the work efficiently.
Any advice appreciated.
Thanks
Replies
Funny, wolverine had that soffit 20 years ago in vinyl.
I have found that snips are the way I use best. I have tried drilling holes, but have not had good luck.
The trim piece of the lights should cover any mess you make.
try running hollow hole saw in reverse
Rotozip and a circle cutting jig, or a similar setup.
Holesaw in reverse
Thanks, I'll try that.
You use a standard hole saw for wood?
I assume the reverse would prevent it from grabbing and kinking the metal?
I did a bunch of copper soffit ( see, New Copper Job, in the photo threads) and discovered my Shell Gas Station 24 oz coffee mug lid was exactly the right size to use as circle template.
Most of my cans landed on a seam, being as the copper was 3 pcs to what al. or vinyl would have been one ( 3x4" with the grooves) and I was doing a radiused soffit, I just traced the lid section and used my wiss reds to cut out.
Like others said too, can rings can hide some rough edges.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
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sphere,
I followed that thread (w/o reply) since I didn't think I could offer anything, but...
Nice work!
I have usually found that the snips end up causing kinks when I try to cut up the ribs. Maybe I'm too impatient and try to take too big of cuts, I dunno.
I'll try to experiment with some scrap and see how the holesaw method works out. Seems like that would offer more consistency, for me anyway. If no go, I'll practice with the snips.
Thanks.
3 tips on snips...
Only Wiss...Replace often, when dull ( I may get a new Pr a month sometimes)
and never snip all the way CLOSED, stop short of a full bite, it's the tips that distort the metal.
oh, 4, turn the snips upside down.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
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probably part of the problem, mine aren't wiss and they are at least 2-3 years old. Rigid- I believe.
I'll certainly try to remember to not fully close them, but what does the upside down do?
It's hard to describe the difference, but I hold the work in my left hand and spiral cut ( after making a starting hole if in the center of a panel) around counter clockwise with the face UP and my handles underneath, like cutting from the backside.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
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I have usually found that the snips end up causing kinks when I try to cut up the ribs.
Rough cut the hole slightly smaller that the finished hole. Use a combination of red and green snips to clean it up.copper p0rn
I'll try that also. Another uselful tip from someone quite skilled in metal work!
Thank you.
Yes to both questions. The holesaw will work... but saws over 4" get expensive quick, and you need a decent drill to turn it.
Another thing to try would be the Malco circle cutter. Never tried it on aluminum, so I can't say if it will work or not.
I recently had to cut a 7" circle for a bathroom vent through an aluminum soffit. I used my Sheetrock circle cutter , scored both sides and used a razor knife . Once I cut through, the aluminum peeled around the score marks . i only had to do one , but the trim plate was very small .
Rotozip with a smooth tip drywall bit to guide it around the can light works well for me.
I used a rotozip on mine and it just torn the aluminm, made a mess of it. I would say, fine tooth hole saw with plywood behind it
I too have used a rotozip with a drywall bit and cut them in place.
The one thing I do is spray the back side of the soffit piece with WD40 before I put it up. Seems to keep the bit clear and gives a clean cut.
Terry
Sounds like a good idea. I will have to try that.
Chassis punch.
http://www.markertek.com/Tools-Test-Equipment/Chassis-Punches-Dies/730BB-3-4-INCH.xhtml
Not sure if Greenlee makes one large enough for can lights, but if not you could make one yourself.
Take a cheap hole saw of the proper size and cut a hole in a 3/4" hardwood plank. Save the plug. Sand the edges just enough so it slips into the hole saw without binding.
Grind off the sawteeth on the hole saw and sharpen the rim to a knife-edge with a Dremel. Make a short bevel to preserve the strength of the rim.
Install the arbour, remove the pilot bit, and replace it with a bolt long enough to reach through the holesaw, the soffit, and the wood plug. Use washers on both ends of the bolt.
Crank it down with a pair of wrenches and it'll punch right through the aluminum soffit clean as a whistle.
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not brought
low by this? For thine evil pales before that which
foolish men call Justice....
Dinosaur,
I looked at your link and reviewed your description, but I don't see how this could work without crunching the ribs in the soffit panels, before it cut through the metal.
Am I missing something, have you tried this on a ribbed alum. soffit panel?
Oh, craap. I forgot about those damned ribs.
I don't suppose you could locate the cans to avoid falling on a rib. Could you get your local sheet-metal shop to perf you some flat soffit stock?
You'd have to put some sort of filler strip in the ribs, to push them against the knife-edge of the cutter. You could probably rip strips of wood to the proper shape, then cut them to length as required depending on where the hole needed to be relative to the ribs for each can.
Might need to shape a backing block. Dunno if it would be worth all the trouble.
Might be easier than it sounds but I wouldn't bet on it; you'd have to try it to find out.
Ahhhh, the hell with it. Just use yer light-saber....View Image
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....
Hey, you didn't tell me that I could use a light saber! Problem solved :>)
I think I'll experiment with the hole saw in reverse, or the other suggestions about the snips.
I do appreciate your input. It is always beneficial to have more than one set of eyes on a project.
You don't actually have to buy a whole light sabre; Fein just came out with a new light sabre attachment for the MultiMaster that costs a bit less....
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....
There's space-separated quantum cutting with silicon nanocrystals, but things can get out of hand in a hurry if the operator does not observe ALL safety precautions.
Feh! How uncivilised....
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....
If the nanocrystals become unstable you bet it's uncivilized!