BEST WAY TO INSTALL OAK STAIR TREADS
Hi guys.
I am scheduled to rip out existing, carpeted stair treads and install new, oak treads. The existing stringers will remain in place. I plan on pre-drilling the treads and anchoring them using long, cabinet (small head) screws. My question deals with eliminating squeeks. Last time I installed oak treads was years ago…most of my jobs simply involve carpeted treads. Anyway, last time I layed down beads of construction adhesive on the stringers and then nailed the treads in place. Over the years, those treads squeek badly. These particular stairs have seen very heavy use (traffic), but that’s no excuse… IMHO, stairs should always remain tight and squeek free.
I am wondering what would be a better substance to use in place of the construction adhesive? I know using the cabinet screws will help keep the treads a bit tighter this time, but still want to “Pad” the bottom of each tread with some sort of cushioning to keep the squeeks away.
Any thoughts?
Thanks.
Davo
Replies
Do you have access from below?
If so I would suggest pocket screws. If you remove all the treads at once your gonna have enough room to use pocket screws and adhesive anyway.
Just a thought.
Shout out to Andy C. Namaste my friend.
http://www.hay98.com/
Squeaks are usually nailing rubbing on a piece of wood or one piece of wood flexing agaist another. I used construction adhesive on a stair once and had the same problem. I regret but we live and learn. Just recently though a coworker glued an inch a half cut off 2x4 to a stud on a wall near where he was working withpolyurethene construction adhesive. And I was amazed how strong it was. When I first saw iti thought I would just rip it off with my hand, then I tried a hammer after a couple of days of intermitant and hammer blows of ever increasing intensity it finally broke. So I might if I was you consider this glue. Planning your attack though to make sure that there will be no rubbing like new tread against existing apron or any old nails that need pulled is the best advice I can give. Probably not much help.
Fasteners help.....but the best way to eliminate squeks is to prep the stringers correctly.
Squeks appear later because we mash down those treads on uneven stringers using whatever fastener and gunk-glue we can. Eventually, the tread wins out, fails the fasteners, resumes it's original shape and starts singing.
Once you have the stringers clean, cut a piece of dead-#### straight alum or wood just shy of the tread length. With a level,check the stringers side to side. Correct as required. Also use a 12" torpedo to check heel to point.
When you lay the tread (without fasteners) It should lay there rock steady. Put your weight on it and see if there is any movement. If there is, it don't matter how many screws and goo you put in, it'll move later.
Think of purpose of the fasteners as being there only to keep the tread from wandering off the stringer rather than a means to prevent squeks.
This is the most sensible advice I've heard all day. And it was a long hot one. Thanks
use the right adhesive for one thing. PL Premium will take an elephant to breakbond if it is to clean wod to begin with.
Then use trimhead screws, not the big headed whoppers
And make sure the adhesive is on the ends too. Your sqeaks can come from rubbing the skirts as well as otherwise.
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
I always lay from the bottom up so I can nail the tread from the back of the riser above it. I fit the tread tightly as mentioned, scribing to the skirts if necessary and always apply a generous amount of constuction adhesive to each tread. If you can, lift the tread back up a bit after you seat it in the adhesive, to make sure each one has ample glue on both surfaces.Iif you give the glue several seconds to grab each surface, it acts somewhat like a contact adhesive when reseated. The poly glues are fine but very messy, I think any heavy duty construction adhesive will work fine. I also apply a heavy bead of yellow glue to the back where the tread and riser meet . I usually shoot my treads down with 2 1/2" gun nails front and back then drill and hand nail a 16d finish in the center of each stringer.This helps to pull the tread down and seat it very firmly. Last, the riser is shimmed tight to the tread (if necessary) and a pocket screw driven between each carriage draws everything up snug and squeek-free.
Edited 6/12/2005 10:59 pm ET by BradR
Here is a pic from one of my favorite stairs, I am no Stan Foster but you gotta have role models.
Were you being too modest to claim it as your own...beautiful!Ciao for niao
***I'm a contractor - but I'm trying to go straight!***
http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=tp-breaktime&msg=54504.171
You might get some ideas from this thread.
Dane
I will always be a beginner as I am always learning.