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Discussion Forum

best way to paint interior trim

stealman | Posted in Construction Techniques on June 29, 2006 07:03am

Hi, I am building a new house and I am ready to paint the interior trim with laytex satin enamel. The walls are painted and I have a finnished wood from. I would like to spray the trim and I have an airless, but I am worried about the over spray. I realize that I need to mask off but it seems like I am going to make a huge mess throughout the whole house. Is this the way to go? If so what spray tip should I use? Any other advice? This makes me nervouse. I was looking into H.V.L.P sprayers to eliminate overspray, but it sounds like they do not work well with laytex. Any info out there on this? PLease help.

Thanks, Paul

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Replies

  1. pickings | Jun 29, 2006 07:38pm | #1

    The amount of time spent masking would be a pain at best.

    I would brush it, and I would use at least a semi-gloss (easier cleaning fingerprints at doorways etc later).

    Just my 2c

    1. stealman | Jun 29, 2006 07:53pm | #2

      I have tried to brush some of it and it does not look that good after one coat. and the thought of going around this place more than once {2200 sq feet} seems like the very long road. Any other input? Thanks.

      1. CAGIV | Jun 29, 2006 08:01pm | #4

        I'm guessing you already installed all the trim?

        We pre-finish all our our trim with primer and a first coat then install and final coat it.

        Masking everything off will be a bear of a task if it's already installed I'd brush it out.  You may need to thin the paint down for it to lay flat.

        1. User avater
          IMERC | Jun 29, 2006 08:35pm | #6

          the OP asked for the best way...

          sub it out...Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->

          WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->

          Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!

          1. CAGIV | Jun 29, 2006 09:19pm | #7

            to you? ;)

          2. Piffin | Jun 29, 2006 11:57pm | #10

            ROAR! 

             

            Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

          3. CAGIV | Jun 30, 2006 12:24am | #11

            I think he only likes blue paint though...

          4. User avater
            IMERC | Jun 30, 2006 04:30am | #14

            any color is fine...

             

            think the HO is super insured...Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->

            WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->

            Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!

          5. CAGIV | Jun 30, 2006 04:35am | #15

            you could go big...

            treat it like a circus act and sell tickets.

          6. User avater
            IMERC | Jun 30, 2006 05:01am | #18

            complete with camera crews ya say....

            hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm......Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->

            WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->

            Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!

          7. User avater
            IMERC | Jun 30, 2006 04:28am | #13

            I have a little dog available to me for the right money...Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->

            WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->

            Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!

      2. pickings | Jun 29, 2006 08:14pm | #5

        In a rush? Just do one room at a time.

        My house took about a month of 6-8hr evenings and 7 gals of trim paint to do it ONE COAT. (could not pre-paint since some joker had already installed the trim about 154 years ago w/ 3" cut nails.)

        Take your time.....do it right.

        A good quality 1.5" to 2" "angled" sash brush, coupled w/ decent paint will do it.....remember....this is interior trim, not a fence. 

  2. davem | Jun 29, 2006 08:01pm | #3

    i prefer oil-based paints for interior woodwork because it flows out better, finishes harder and wears better. i prime and first coat with with an hvlp cup gun before installing. then i fill, caulk and spot paint,then brush a second coat over everything. i have masked trim and sprayed latex on walls an ceiling with an airless, and the prep time was insane. masking the walls and ceiling to spray trim would be even worse.

  3. User avater
    Gene_Davis | Jun 29, 2006 10:27pm | #8

    I just used the "Magazine Index" link at the top of this page, to search the FH archives for spray painting topics.

    There were two good articles, and my recommendations would be to go to a public library where they have the archived magazines, and read them.

    I have both backissues in my files here, and recall the articles.  Both will be very helpful in making your decisions on equipment and technique.

    We have done whole house trim jobs spraying heavy acrylic latex (Sherwin Williams Pro Classic Satin), using a large compressor, driving a 2.5 gallon pressure pot to a conversion gun.  IMHO, the HVLP system is the way to go, but I have seen a lot of production painters using airless guns.

    Edit:  ours is the Accuspray 19c gun, shown here

    View Image

    Either way, you get a smooth, flawless finish.  One tool worth its weight in gold at mask-up time is a 3M masker, a device that marries the paper (mounted on a roll on the tool) to the tape.  Window masking film is also a must.

    Mask-up and dropcloth work takes a couple people a day or two to do an average house, and the spray job should take just a day . . . one coat in the early AM, and the other one after lunch.



    Edited 6/29/2006 3:30 pm ET by Gene_Davis

    1. stealman | Jun 30, 2006 04:47am | #16

      I tried to paint some of the trim today with a brush. By the way the trim is preprimed mdf. It takes two coats to cover which is ok with me but the brush marks do not look good. I am useing laytex enamel. Is there any advice for getting rid of the brush marks? Will the use of a h.v.l.p. eliminate the clouds of paint that will dry and make a dust mess? And can the h.v.l.p spray this paint?

      1. User avater
        Gene_Davis | Jun 30, 2006 05:07am | #19

        Any kind of spraying will create paint fog in the room to some extent, but HVLP can deliver more paint to the intended surface than airless.

        Yes, high viscosity coatings like acrylics and latexes can be sprayed.  It is done all the time with HVLP rigs like ours.  Use the right rig and tip, and thin with water no more than 10 percent.

        Get yourself some tyvek suits, and a good respiration kit.

      2. User avater
        trout | Jun 30, 2006 05:35am | #20

        We spray the trim first, mask the trim and spray the walls.  Unless you are trying to protect a finished part of the house I'm not sure why you have the hesitation about paint dust. 

        In your situation I'd definitely mask the trim and spray it.  It doesn't take that much time to mask trim.

      3. User avater
        BillHartmann | Jun 30, 2006 06:05am | #21

        Have you tried adding Flotrol?http://www.flood.com/Flood/Products/Interior/PaintAdditives/Floetrol_Interior+Additive.htm?WT.srch=1&WT.mc_id=flotrol

      4. RedfordHenry | Jul 04, 2006 06:01am | #24

        Flotrol.  Just a capful or so per can.  And a 2" Purdy Dale Elite.

        1. johnharkins | Jul 04, 2006 08:58am | #25

          preprimed mdf is almost a misnomer
          there are many cos that make it & I have yet to find one that the primer does not seem to resist paint
          there aint no mechanical tooth to adhere your paint to
          I've found the best way is to hit it w/ the shellac base primer ( sticks to anything ) and your latex or oil will bond many times betterI do nothing but brush but whatever approach you're in for a laborious task and you'll appreciate it if you give it its due

  4. User avater
    zak | Jun 29, 2006 10:49pm | #9

    I think CAGIV already covered it, but if you can, prime and paint one coat before you install the trim.  That's assuming you can get good coverage with that one coat.  Then brush on one more coat after the trim is in, without having to cut in really close to the walls and floors.

    Otherwise, spend the money to get a few good brushes, and go to town.  I usually put on primer with a trim roller (less refilling than a brush), then cut in with a 2" short handled sash brush, then paint the flats with a 3".

    zak

    "so it goes"

  5. ClaysWorld | Jun 30, 2006 02:14am | #12

    Hopefully no carpet in yet?

    Take and tape off a room and time it to see, it's not as bad as you think.

    Spend Up $ on the tape. Then if you have a good airless use a 2=13 tip.  I mean something that can push the paint.

  6. cooman | Jun 30, 2006 05:00am | #17
    First you insall your trim where the carpet is going to be layed. Then you prep your trim. And after that is done you spray it with a airless. Then you spray the rest in the shop or the house. You do it that way because you got hardwood flooring down and tile too. That help because it saves time and you are not wastting time. Just stand back and think about it . It not hard to think man. Doing finish work you have to think all the time or you will get in trouble. I been doing this for 20 yrs.cooman
  7. Varoom | Jun 30, 2006 06:29pm | #22

    "paint the interior trim with laytex satin enamel"

    That's your first problem.  You don't paint trim with a satin unless you enjoy looking at dirt and smudges.  Use a semi-gloss or gloss and use oil over latex if at all possible.

    "I would like to spray the trim"

    Fugettaboutit.  Too late for that.  Brush paint it with a quality natural hair brush.  If you are getting set marks, it's because you are not doing a finish stroke.  If you are doing a finish stroke and are getting brush marks, you are not loading your brush with enough paint.  Painting the trim first and then the walls is easier for beginners.  If you don't know what I'm taking about, bring in a painter to do it for you.

    1. DonCanDo | Jul 04, 2006 01:28pm | #26

      ...Painting the trim first and then the walls is easier for beginners. ...

      I agree.  In fact, I think it's easier for experienced painters too.

      The hardest part is going to be the edge of the trim where it meets the wall.  If the walls are already painted and the trim wasn't pre-painted, I would probably use painters tape on the wall to get a nice clean line.

      -Don

  8. paperhanger | Jul 04, 2006 05:29am | #23

    If its your house, use oil base Satin Impervo for Ben Moore. Two coats on the trim, brushed of course. Use a mohair roller to spread the paint and a brush to finish. Two coats and it will be smooth as a babies behind. The doors should be sprayed, I assume you are using MDF. If you have any rooms without finished flooring ,you can set up your spray area there, you can do about 4 doors in each room, laid flat ,braced up on 5 gal buckets, laid end to end. You should be able to apply 2 coats in most cases, that is both sides too. Put 20d nails in each rail from the top and you should have a good area to flip the doors. Good Luck, JIM Z

    1. highfigh | Jul 04, 2006 06:18pm | #30

      There are clips that nail into the top edge of doors so they can be sprayed standing up. It looks like a big bi-fold when they're standing. That way, the whole door can be sprayed at one time instead of waiting for one side to dry, then having to lay it on fresh paint to do the other side.
      "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

      1. paperhanger | Jul 06, 2006 01:59am | #32

        some times the spray is too heavy and will sag with the accordian holders, I find the bucket system work best for me.

        1. highfigh | Jul 06, 2006 04:43am | #34

          I didn't spray mine. I hate cleaning up after oil based paint but it goes on a lot better and is more durable than latex, IMO.
          "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

  9. saulgood | Jul 04, 2006 03:05pm | #27

    Airless spraying on trim is only practical if you're very comfortable with the tool and can use a shield and dropcloths rather than masking everything tight. Keeping the paint off window panes (or scraping it later) is usually the deal breaker, because they take way too long to mask. Also, Airless results always look "sprayed" (this effect basically turns semi gloss to satin). Not necessarily bad, just a different look from a good brush stroke (which suggests wood grain, even on MDF.)

    HVLP is really good for oil finishes on complex features like louvres and built-in cabinetry, but you will find it too slow for a whole house.

    With oil based paints you can get away with a lot more, and even a foam "weenie" roller can produce good results on door panels and other broad surfaces. If you add Penetrol for leveling and DON"T apply it too thick (hence the weenie roller) you can sometimes get results that look a lot like it was sprayed.

    I know the airless is tempting, but the masking will take too long and you'll never get an even finish with latex anyway (the paint builds up on each facet at different rates).

    You need to just bite the bullet and get ta work with more conventional weapons. It won't be so bad if you know a couple of tricks:

    1. always sand lightly between coats, starting with the primed stock. This might seem like too much work, but it only takes a minute with a sanding sponge and it will save you a whole coat of paint.

    2. Since you want to use latex paint, use the afore mentioned "Flotrol" to help level it

    3. Use a roller with a grid in a 2 gal bucket to spread the paint, then a nice brush to even it out. Keep your brush clean, and make a small hook so it can hang safely on the inside of the bucket while you're rolling. Don't roll out more than you can handle at one time . keep a wet rag with you so you can paint with confidence, and work fast -it will be done soon.

  10. User avater
    Gunner | Jul 04, 2006 03:28pm | #28

      I'm in the group that advocates pre painting the trim. If you really want to spray it then Go to a profesional paint store and get a big spray paddle. I tried googleing for a picture but didn't have any luck. Essentialy it's three or four feet wide, and a couple of feet tall with a handle on it, (Like a flat snow shovel with a short handle.)

      You use it as a barrier to protect the wall or floor. I would tape down builders paper to the floor and use the barrier to protect the wall from overspray and truck on. Spraying is definatley faster and better looking then brushing. If you have the right enviroment to do it in.

     

     

     

     

    All the girlies say that I'm really kind of fly for a white guy.

  11. User avater
    trout | Jul 04, 2006 06:10pm | #29

    I'm more than a little surprised at the reluctance of the group to simply spray everything with a good quality airless.  It's quick and looks good.  Masking is simply a fact of life, so get the proper masking supplies and there is no problem with overspray.

    If a painter showed up at a job site with anything other than a good airless we'd think he was a little off base.  If he couldn't get a good even finish on the trim we'd send him packing.  If there was overspray on anything we'd send him packing and back bill him for the cleanup.  On a T&M job, the HVLP painter would be asked to either use an airless or we'd work out a bid price.

    If, on the other hand, we're trying to save the expense of painter's plastic in a few widths, and more narrow paper, both on usable tape/paper applicators, then we're better off brushing the trim with the max. recommended amount of flotrol.

    Simply asking for help with the various products at a good paint store, not Wal-mart or Ace Hardware, will clear up a lot of the problems.

    Good painting

  12. highfigh | Jul 04, 2006 06:21pm | #31

    If you have to use latex for the trim, add Floe-trol and get really good brushes. If you did one room so far, switch to oil based. As was said before, it goes on better, is harder and mush more durable. I used latex on my place and it was a mistake. You'll always see touch-ups on latex but with oil, they blend in better.

    "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
  13. JeffB | Jul 06, 2006 04:30am | #33

    Best way to paint interior trim?  Let someone else do it.

    Jeff

  14. User avater
    trout | Jul 06, 2006 04:50am | #35

    If our painters are getting a fantastic high gloss finish with an airless, I'm at a loss as to what they are sacrificing?

    No, an airless aimed at the DIY crowd, or any underpowered machine, or a miss-sized tip, or a worn out tip, or someone who doesn't know what the heck they're doing isn't going to cut it.

  15. zippity | Jul 09, 2006 07:15am | #36

    We install all of the trim after the drywall has been primered, caulk all of the casing and baseboard. Then we spray all the trim with a sprayer along with the ceilings if they are to be the same color as the trim. Then we come back and cut everything in and roll all of the walls.

    Since you already painted the walls, I would spray all of the trim and then come back and cut the walls back in and roll over any overspray. The overspray will be minimal if you are careful with the sprayer. If your window jambs are to be painted, just tape off the windows and spray.

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