Hey guys,
I am attempting to shingle a 1910 Craftsman house. I am going to install shingles by doing a traditional weave on all corners. The way I see it described in the books is to nail the bottoms of all the shingles after they are woven. Is this the best way? I think all the exposed nails would take away from the woven look.
Maybe I am just too particular….
Please share your thoughts.
Thanks
–Edward
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Replies
I didn't find it necessary with a six inch exposure. It's been three years and the corners look the same as when installed. No issues with cupping. I think you end up with more problems with splitting when the nails are used in the corners.
no...nailing the bottoms is bogus... so is nailing the corners...it usually results in splits after a season or two
IMNSHO.... woven corners should not be face nailed
Thanks. I figured the bottom nailing was unnecessary. Just wanted to confirm.
I did woven corners about 5 years ago. It was time-consuming as each shingle needs to be custom fitted but the end product looks very nice and was worth the extra effort. I used 1-1/4" by 1/4 staples via a air nailer. I used galvanised staples and face-nailed the bottoms. The staples virtually disappear. If you don't have an air stapler they are quite cheap and woth their weight in gold.
You can speed up the corners by using a router with a flush cutting bit. Makes a mess, but makes fitting the corners very fast.
The idea is a good one, I assume with a bearing guid, how does it do getting up and into the butt?
"how does it do getting up and into the shingle butt?"
You can either start at the top or nail the shingle so the butt is right on the corner and work in on an angle from there.
I used to use a utility knife but was always re-cutting as the knife tends to want to follow the grain.
we hold the shingle in place....trace the trim with a pencil... then cut to the line
the guys use a sabre saw... i use a 4" PC trim saw..
then we nail the shingle in place and move to the next one..
here's some RC factory dipped we installed two years ago
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Mike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Edited 7/10/2009 8:47 pm ET by MikeSmith
Edited 7/10/2009 8:48 pm ET by MikeSmith
Edited 7/10/2009 8:48 pm ET by MikeSmith
Edited 7/10/2009 8:49 pm ET by MikeSmith
Where'd the wedding ring go, Mike?
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having the engraving redone after 36 years...
no flys on you !Mike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Why not just use a router w/ a roller guide and trim them after nail-up?
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stubbornMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
I always nail mine, otherwise they open up. Just use a 3d - 4d gal. or stainless finish nail in the thick of the butt, up 3/4" or so. Galvies are OK for whites, stainless for reds. They don't hardly show, set them a little. Make sure you go in straight, pre-drilling helps and keeps you from knocking the opposite shingle sideways. The old timers I grew up around wouldn't accept woven corners that were not fastened this way. The weave should go right, then left and so on.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
cybermonkey
I have never seen a galvanized staple I thought would be OK to use on shingles. The galvanizing is electroplating only a few atoms thick. It will keep the staples from rusting in the box but will not protect against rust in the long term.
Your shingles could last a century. Don't use a ten-year fastener.
Ron
This is one where mike and I disagree for a change.
I always nail them. You need three penny fine hot dipped and pay attention to grain, but I get maybe one split in a thousand after - now as much as twenty years on some of these. The corners stay snug and keep the rain out that way. Without nails, I see them curl away and open to wind driven water.
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They are called BOX nails.
Myself, I'd use SS 18 ga. brads.
cAll them what you will. up here, you are more likely to get what you want calling them 3dfines
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I use the machine trick as well, but I use a laminate trimmer with a straight flush cutting bit w/ roller bearing.
I find that the easiest, and fastest way for me to produce the results I want is by setting up a jig on the table saw, and cutting a bunch of shingles with an angle that's close to the round cut required. That way, I'm removing next to no material from the top and bottom, a little more in the midddle.
I use Tightbond 2 on the edge. I also pin the bottom with a stainless steel brad. I cut a block to fit inside a 3x21 belt from my sander, and keep it in my apron to hit each one with a quick pass after the trimmer.
I recall an article in FB or JLC where a guy cut them and put them together first. I don't see how it can work, since doing it on the wall, it ends up being a curved joint, which keeps pressure on it as well. It seems to me that if the cuts are straight, it would leave a hollow behind the shingles, and the corner would stick out further than the field.
I love the look of woven red cedars, and also craftsman style houses. Good luck with your house.
Bing