Replies

1. 
   Tennisball | Jun 21, 2002 12:10pm | #1

   Joe,

   I've found that Mahogany is great for windows since it is resistant to moisture, stable, paintable, and long lasting. For the application, I believe it is superior to Cherry and Oak. Use stainless hardware, and you've got a winner.
2. 
   vasalesman | Jun 21, 2002 02:04pm | #2

   Ditto for mahogany but make sure you're getting a true mahogany from South or Central America.  Some places offer a "mahogany" from the Phillipines or that region.  You & I would call it lauan and it's got much lower decay resistance than the real McCoy, as well as being a lot softer.  Mahogany is like the oaks or pines.  There are lots of species under those names with a range of strengths & weaknesses.  If you can, buy the wood from a company that specializes in cabinet grade hardwoods.  You'll be much more likely to obtain true mahogany there.

   Al

1. 
   JCJF | Jun 21, 2002 02:49pm | #3

   Al  and Phill

   thanks Al/Phill there is a hardwood mill up here at exit 21 Adirondack hard woods. I,ll stop in there first and check the moisture content .to be honest mahogany never crossed my mind, what are your thoughts on penophin for a finish no paint allowed.

   THERES NO TIME LIKE QUAILITY TIME

   Edited 6/21/2002 7:51:28 AM ET by Joe

1. 
   vasalesman | Jun 21, 2002 03:38pm | #4

   Is this finish for the exterior only?  Many of the good ones are supposed to be for exterior use only.  If so, Penofin is a good choice.  Superdeck, made by Duckback Products might be better.  Flood's CWF-UV would also work well.  These all darken the wood so you might want to have your client ok a sample piece before starting. 

   I don't recall if you mentioned what type window this will be.  In particular on a casement, where you'll have end grain on the stiles somewhat exposed to water, be sure to seal the top edge very carefully.  Several coats would be smart.

   Al

1. 
   JCJF | Jun 21, 2002 04:09pm | #6

   Al

   I've used cwf before and was disappointed I know penophin will work but its hard to get the only dealer around here is in Vermont , and I,m always willing to try something new so superdeck will get a chance now to find it. the glass in the window is just 1/4 tempered with a design laid on it by my client but if it breaks due to warping I,m out of all future considerations.. this is a test THERES NO TIME LIKE QUAILITY TIME

3. 
   stonefever | Jun 21, 2002 04:03pm | #5

   Excuse me, but something doesn't sound right here.

   You say this is a first for you.  It's an attic window (meaning 2nd or more story).  And a casement to boot.  You mention penofin as a finish and an installation in upstate N.Y. where there will be extremes in weather.

   Unless you have experience building windows and you have a adequate woodshop (shapers, etc.), Why is this question even being asked?

   If a high quality result is expected and this window will be highly visible from the INside (not that much from the OUTside), and I were doing the job...

   I would simply go down the street to the WeatherShield window supplier and order the appropriately sized casement having their fancy oak or cherry wood interior with aluminum cladding on the outside in the color that matches the customer's desires.  IF the customer wanted to get fancy, WeatherShield has some casements with oval shaped tops.  In such a situation, I would also order the appropriately shaped interior casing at the same time. 

   When the unit came in, I would take it to the local finisher and have him stain (if desired - I could do it, but if it's cherry, funny things happen to cherry staining afterwards) it and put a lacquer clearcoat on it.  It could be argued that that clearcoat should be applied after installation.

   The previous posters making suggestion of mahogany have merit, but are assuming the customer WANTS a dark wood in that application ( And you being a experienced windowmaker - which was not disclosed).  He may not.

1. 
   JCJF | Jun 21, 2002 04:19pm | #7

   Stonefever

   the glass for this endeavor was made by my client ,my shop is adequately supplied my skills are tentatives, as I just explained to Al this is a test , a very clever way to see if I balk at the challenge or rise to the occasion. of course I could always sub this job to you.THERES NO TIME LIKE QUAILITY TIME

1. 
   stonefever | Jun 21, 2002 04:31pm | #8

   All I can say is, "Good Luck."

   I know nothing about your shop, your skills, or the job.

   But the focus on an exterior finish for a 2nd or higher story window seems misplaced relative to the other complexities in such a job.  But then again, I don't know the rest of the story.  But you point out that the customers satifaction is important towards future work...

   As far as the inclusion of the customer's glass, order the casement without glazing. And if the glass has already been made, have Weathershield custom make the casement to fit for a single pane thickness.

   Again, Good Luck!

1. 
   jimblodgett | Jun 21, 2002 05:07pm | #9

   Vertical grain fir for sash and jamb.

   West System epoxy to glue all joinery.

   Whitco casement hardware for hinges - http://www.vincentwhitney.com.

   Resource Conservation Technology Inc. for weatherstripping - (410) 366-1146.

   I have a few thousand words written on building casement windows, e mail me if you need help.

4. 
   grantlogan | Jun 21, 2002 07:06pm | #10

   I'm seeing a lot of sassafras used in my area  -  fairly rot resistant and works easier than mahogany and definately cheaper.

   gl

   Duct tape is like the force. It has a light side, a dark side, and it holds the universe together....Carl Zwanzig