I’m looking for installation info for beveled cedar siding.
I’m wondering if a coil nailer with 6p, stainless, ringshank nails would be an appropriate means of fastening. Also, is it best to face nail each 16″ (studs are 16″ o.c. and walls are sheathed with 1/2 plywood)? Finally, is it necessary to snap lines for each course or can I get away with using a 6 1/2″ spacer block to set each course height?
Any other comments or suggestions would be welcome.
Upgrading the footings and columns that support a girder beam is an opportunity to level out the floor above.
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Replies
Beveled siding is face nailed, with the nail above the top of the board below. This allows each board to expand/ contract, as it is only fastened by one nail. Nails should be 16" o.c., and hit the studs. I prefer Maze nails for their proven durability, color matching and holding power.
Cedar siding is very popular hear in SE WI. That and 'um vinyl where allowed. I've never seen it put up with a pneumatic nailer. Always seems to be done by hand with special cedar spikes (Maze makes them) . Usually a three or four person crew. One measuring and nailing, one nailing, and one cutting and nailing, and possibly the forth one nailing
Installed, it's a lot more expensive than vinyl, which is why people who have vinyl can't understand why someone would opt for real wood 'cause they look the same from the street and is higher maintenance.
Then there are the one's who cover the front of their house (street side) with cedar, and the other sides with vinyl.
Boy I can sound pompous sometimes.
Jon
Edited 6/16/2004 9:09 am ET by WorkshopJon
Set your first course as level as you can, and then run the next few without worrying about level. Every few courses you should re-check. I never push a course tightly down onto the one below, instead I leave 1/32-1/16 gap between the two allowing for slight adjustments as needed to make pieces meet around the building as needed. It always seems like there are slight variations in profiles even in the same material from the same mill. It can be helpful to have a rabbet plane to trim material from the upper edge of the lap area once in a while.
Start first course over a small starter strip the same thickness as your field bevel. If you don't, the first row will lay flat - much like vinyl siding. I would snap lines to keep exposure and course run even. You can also cheat a little at windows so a full course rests below trim (install casings first and butt siding up to- same as with corner posts; if not you have to install trim over siding which creates a nice bee void and doesn't look as neat). Check your vertical measurements first to see where siding will land around windows/doors, you can then plan a lay-out (preacher) to determine where siding will start and end. Don't know about nailers, I've always hand nailed with 6d galv siding nails.
good luck, have fun
Carl
Sounds like you may have a siding gun, if it shoots 6 or 8d stainless steel serrated nails. If it is a framing gun I would handnail with stainless steel nails. I start with a level line around the perimeter. I nail a starter piece of 1x2 cedar or pressure treated wood. If there is no drip cap then run the starter thru a table saw to create a dado 1/8" wide and 1/4" deep. Any rain that runs under the starter will hit the dado and drop straight down.The first course is nailed flush with the starter, this course will protrude out at the bottom 3/4" . I have had some people complain that they do not care for this , I either start the first course without a starter or make it thinner. I always show them every option before starting a job. Check your heights with a scrap length of 1x3 as a story pole. You may be able to adjust the starting height or the amount to the weather to accomadate full courses. If your doors and windows are the same height to the heads then it pays to adjust the courses on the story rod.
Snap a line every 6 or so courses, a spacer block is fine, I use a cheap combination square for a spacer. At every vertical joint staple a piece of 30lb felt ( about 8" square) for a flashing. I use a scarf joint at joints, 15 degrees, I spray paint the ends with a can of primer. The paint dries to the touch quickly, then if the siding is to remain natural use a clear silicone caulk at the joint before nailing adjacent piece. Use a paintable silicon if you plan to paint it.Protect the face from overspray with a scrap of siding if left natural when priming ends.
Make sure you flash windows, doors and the corners.I use corner boards on the outside corners,I scribe the inside corners. Most siders use an inside corner, just a 2x2 that the siding butts up to. I do not use them because they have to be nailed to close to the corner, screws up the flashing detail. When scribed you do not have to nail close to the corner.Outside corners are made from 5/4" material and the flashing is nailed with short roofing nails or aluminum trim nails that I cut to length with a pair of sidecutters from the back. The flashing is nailed to the sheathing ,I do not nail thru the corner itself. Leave a 1/8" caulk joint at corners and door and window openings. Try and nail into studs, the plywood sheathing will hold nails too but stud nailing is better.
I am not a siding specialist but have done about dozen wood sided homes in my time.
mike
These are what I meant
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HAND-DRIVEN NAILS FOR SIDING
“SPLIT-LESS”¯ WOOD SIDING NAILS
Specially designed for split-prone woods such as cedar and redwood. Slim, sturdy shank and special blunt point virtually eliminate splits. STORMGUARD¯ double-dipped in molten zinc. Checkered head enhances paint adhesion on colormatched nails. High count greatly reduces per nail cost. Especially popular for sidings scheduled for finishing with paints or pigmented stains. For jobs that will be left natural or treated with a clear or semi-transparent finish, we recommend our Type 304 Stainless Steel “SLIM-JIM”¯ Nails. For ''SPLIT-LESS''¯ Nails in coils for coil siding nailers, see page 8.
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PLAIN Shank
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RING Shank
50 LB
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