Finally got around to installing a pine bifold door for a basement closet. I screwed up the framing for that also and ended up with an opening of approx 23-5/8″ to fit a 24″ door (thank god i bought a power planer). Took off 3/16″ on both sides, so i ended up with 1/6″ on the open end of it. Anyhow it was going well till the instructions said to install snugger guide (1″ long plasic with a spring in the middle) after finally installing it,I relaized that the door wasnt closing and I removed it.
What the devil is the snugger guide for? I am assuming it is a door stop but if the thing is 1″ long how are you gonna get a 1/4″ gap (per standard installation) as the instructions say? Or is the snugger guide only used when you are install a pair of doors (not indicated in the instructions)?
The other question what are the tolerances for the the finished (height) I have to install a bifold door at the gf’s house next weekend and her finish opening is about 1/2″ shorter than the standard finished openingt for a 77″ door (78-34″).
Thanks
Dan
Replies
The tolerances for the height above the floor are really only dictated by what the flooring will be. You'll probably want 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" off the subfloor if it's going to be carpet.
One thing you might try doing is casing around the bifold door to hide the usightly track. It won't take but a minute and it really improves the look.
And I don't really get those snugger guides either. Half the time I can't get them to stay up in the track because it's too loose.
I've only used the snugger guide for pairs of bi-fold doors. It helps to keep them closed by applying slight pressure. It's not really needed if the doors stay closed on their own. I piece of foam would help if they don't
The tolerance on the finished height is doesn't allow much leeway. They're probably figuring on 1/2" clearance at the floor. You may need that much for uneven floors or maybe even more if the doors open out onto a carpeted area.
If these are hollow core doors, your power planer may not help because the bottom rail is only about 1/2". If pine doors, then just plane (or cut) 1/2" off of the bottom. You will also need to drill the hole for pivot guide deeper. Do that before planing the bottom so the existing hole provides a better guide.
-Don
Thanks for replying, I have a feeling I am gonna be doing alot of extra work next weekend. The doorway at her place is just an opening and its about 31.5" (drywalled) so I figure I will have to case the sides to get to a 30" width so I figure to cut the top and reframe so that I can the case the top also. She doesn't want to spend the money on a pine door since she has free labor...........me.
thanks again
Dan
Those snuggers help to keep the door closed. If the doors just hang on the pivots, they often don't remain closed flat. You can live without them. You probably have figured out what is needed for a rough opening by now. A good rule of thumb is to build the rough frame, the size of the door plus 2 1/4" - 2 1/2" both in width and height. The bifolds are already sized for the gaps and hardware. In general 3/4" boards are used for the jambs and you need some extra to shim them plumb. A 24" door is sized to fit a 24" finished opening. The top tracks are already sized in the brands I use. 24"+3/4"+3/4"+3/8"+3/8"= 26 1/4" in RO width. The 3/8" is for shimming each side.
When it comes to framing the height of the RO, you have to consider the finish flooring. Some of us also cover the top track with a 1"x 3/4" piece and have the top casing fit down to the cover piece, with a reveal the same as the sides. You can cut the doors for height. With some hollow doors, there isn't much meat at the bottom, maybe 1 1/4". If you have to cut this much off, you can always cut back the honeycomb inside the door and glue in a solid piece. the width of the door.
Bifolds need a little extra gap, particularly on the pivot side. The fulcrum of the swing on the pivot means the front edge of the door can rub on the casing as it opens. Since the bottom mounting bracket is on the surface of the jamb, the corner of the door can scrape on it and can split out a bit of the corner. It's always nice to have the top of door casings all at the same height, bifold, inswing and outswing. When you add in the clearance for carpeting and add a hiding top strip, you have to figure things from the top down. You also have to mindful of the width of the casing. Narrow ones, 2 1/2" may not cover the RO at the top. I don't think this will be an issue with your next door. You can use 1/2" for your top jamb and push it tight to the header to gain a little extra in a short RO. Just keep it level.
hi Hammer thanks for taking the time to clear things for me, not much info out there on how to size a ro or finish opening for a bifold. thanks again. Iam also learning alot by doing the basment project, have another couple rooms to finish between the garage and house, should go smoother.
Dan
Here in the Northeast, many of us carpenters have a Brosco book. They are a millwork distributor carrying doors, Anderson windows, stair parts, etc. There is information in the book about rough opening sizes. Most all standard doors, interior and exterior frame out the same. Even if you are not using a Brosco product, the info is valuable. Most manufacturers have catalogs that also give the recommended sizes. Ask at your lumber yard, even an outdated catalog can be useful.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
will do hammer, thanks
Dan