Replies

1. 
   davidmeiland | Jan 27, 2010 07:19pm | #1

   Thing is, birch doesn't
   Thing is, birch doesn't really explode any more than other woods. Were you cutting it with a skilsaw and a framing blade? At this point, you're probably better off getting another door and doing what it takes to make it match. A good painter is going to be able to stain it down and get it respectable, whereas you'd need a magician to patch tearout and get it to blend in. Don't waste your time trying.

   For next time... yeah, you can score the cut with a knife and use a skilsaw (use a 40T or better blade), but you're better off trimming doors with a large top-bearing flush-trim router bit and a guide, or a track saw like Festool or Makita.

1. 
   Snort | Jan 27, 2010 07:30pm | #3

   Sounds like it's going to be
   Sounds like it's going to be clear finished. If it's not too bad, like 1/8" from the bottom, stick some sandpaper on a flat block and bevel the edges. If it's worse, talk to the supplier and see if they can get a similarly patterned slab... and give the new girl friend a new tabletop.

   Zero clearance shooting board and a utility knife with a new blade next time, eh?

2. 
   calvin | Jan 27, 2010 07:21pm | #2

   Being birch doesn't have much
   Being birch doesn't have much to do with it.

   Old varnished flush doors (if that's what you're talking about) of almost any vintage will chip out easily with even a real decent blade. No difference with oak or luan.

   A good zero clearance shoot board homemade or bought is the easiest way, it holds down the veneers while you cut.

   Jeff Buck's method of raising the blade to just about an eighth deep, then pulling it backwards through the cut works too without a zero clearance guide.

   Either of those methods makes it easier to get the "score" right where it's supposed to be. I remember scoring then cutting, only to find my cut line was a little to high on the door-chipout.

   No real problem if you're a little long with the cut. The veneer chips out to your scored line, you use a sand block to cherry it out. Gives a bit of bevel and looks nice-no carpet snag later either. Eventho I use a cutting guide I'll break that sharp edge with sandpaper for just that reason.

   Bummer on the door. Two file cabinets and it's a desk.

1. 
   webby | Jan 27, 2010 08:38pm | #5

   Yeah, I have actually scored plenty of times, and had my score line end up high. But at least it wouldnt have been so bad.I do feel like he should have noticed which blade was in his saw. I just feel bad 'cause I should have caught it.

   Sometimes though he has me switch gears so fast that I miss a few things. I have always been more comfortable with my own tools and methods.

3. 
   webby | Jan 27, 2010 08:29pm | #4

   Thanks for all the advice. Just fyi- The tool of choice was a porter cable saw boss. Now, he had a 40 tooth carbide blade on the saw. He had brought an 18 tooth. He told me to take the blade off the saw cause it wouldn't work. He must have thought the 18 tooth was on the saw. So of course I did what I was told, had I been more alert I would have probably caught that or questioned it. Because I know the finer the tooth the better the cut.

   He doesn't like shooting boards, I have 4 at home for various saws, but he never entertains the idea of them. He would have scored with a knife and freehanded it. I prefer the shooting board.

   I actually had to make 2 cuts, the door was splintering and the painters tape was flying up so bad I couldnt' see the cut line and I got off. So I moved up and this time I went to the trailer and got a level and a pair of clamps to use as a straightedge. Had he seen this though he would have through a fit, and just done it himself then.

4. 
   factotam | Jan 28, 2010 07:05am | #6

   many years ago i purchased a forrest blade for my skill saw when they were much cheaper, but even today with the current price i would still purchase one if i didnt have one already,i only use it when i need to cross cut plywood veneers

   i know it sounds strange to have a saw blade that costs about the same as the saw you put it on, but if you ever have to cut a bunch of door bottoms or cut some cabinet doors down, it makes the job go well

   DH07Q607100 7.25" SAW BLADE- 60T .100" 5/8" $121.50

   http://www.forrestblades.com/hiat.htm

5. 
   Scott | Jan 29, 2010 01:13am | #7

   Ok, Webby, before we all let you off the hook for this, you've got some 'splainin' to do.

   Please follow the logical conclusion of the following statements, taken directly from your text:

   "I was up till about 1:30 last night with the new girlfriend."

   "Yeah, I have actually scored plenty of times."

   "The tool of choice was a porter cable saw boss."

   "He doesn't like shooting boards,though he has me switch gears so fast that I miss a few things."

   "I have always been more comfortable with my own tool."

   ...I'd say you've got a keeper of a girlfriend there, Webby....

   ROFLMAO.......

1. 
   webby | Jan 29, 2010 09:40am | #8

   LOL, thats funny right there!!

   Well.... I am guilty. My tools are a little jeaulous. But they will have to get over it.

   The new GF is much better though. My whole life has been turned around.

   Im out of cell minutes, and texts, Cause we talk so much when I am not with her. It's has been enjoyable. ;)

   So I didn't meant to screw the door up, but the door wasn't the main thing on my mind.

1. 
   Scott | Jan 30, 2010 11:56am | #12

   >>>So I didn't meant to screw
   >>>So I didn't meant to screw the door up, but the door wasn't the main thing on my mind.

   Allow me to offer what I think is a perfectly valid excuse:

   It's a well-known fact that men aren't endowed with enough blood to operate both heads at once, and it's fairly clear where your circulatory priorities are at the moment.

2. 
   IdahoDon | Jan 29, 2010 09:37pm | #9

   Nothing easy about fixing it--let your boss decide and don't worry about it. Sometimes a door can be exchanged for one on a closet or whatnot and the damage is more or less hidden, but other than that it's probably going to be hidden with a little carefully applied finish.

   Screwing up is part of learning and if you are an employee don't get excited about volunteering your own money to make up for a lack of clear instruction. Some guys will let you work for free if you offer it! lol

   As for scoring--don't ever forget that when you're over 40 you will never regret staying up too late having too much sex when you're younger! Not gonna happen. Nadda.

1. 
   webby | Jan 29, 2010 11:34pm | #10

   LOL, I will take your advice. Thanks!

6. 
   AlanRoberson | Jan 30, 2010 10:32am | #11

   If you're looking at
   If you're looking at replacing the door, it would probably be cheaper to buy a door veneer and reskin the chipped side. I've reskinned a few doors this way and it really works well. The veneers come in 4x8 sheets, the ones I'm familiar with are applied with contact cement.

   As for cutting something like a door bottom, I like to lay a flat scrap of 3/4 AC ply over the cut , clamp it, and cut through that and the door at the same time - basically a zero clearance setup.

7. 
   MarkH | Jan 30, 2010 07:09pm | #13

   You may be able to fill in the chips with a wax pencil. It's worth trying. Most people don't look at the bottom of a door real hard, so it's possible to get away with filling.